M_dawg

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Hi, I have recently collected this tree (2 days ago, it was now or never) from a forest near my grandads house. I have potted it up in a plastic pot with regular potting soil (all that I have available) and given it a deep watering. In the photos you can see where I have cut the tree in order to fit it in the car. These are quite large cuts and I was wondering if it is best for me to wait until the tree shows signs of recovery before making a more aesthetic cut back or wether I should do it right away to avoid wasting the trees energy on healing the current wound which I will only eventually cut off. I also intend on raising the roots up to the levels in the photos, would this best be done by air layering the tree when in full vigour?

on a side note, some of the new shoots on the tree have sagged a bit however the soil is wet, should I water it again or continue to water normally (wait for the soil to dry out a bit before watering) also, can anyone help me with identifying the tree, I recognise it from somewhere but cannot be sure what it’s exact name is.
 

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Shibui

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The bark and leaves look like hornbeam or beech but i don't have much experience with ID for either of those.
It is not unusual for shoots to droop for a few weeks after collection. many roots have been damaged so the leaves just can't get enough water to stay turgid. Keep the soil evenly damp but rather than more water on the soil I would try making the air round the leaves more humid to reduce their need for water. I've seen good reports on covering newly collected trees with plastic bags or garbage bags for a few weeks until some roots recover enough to support the shoots.

There is no point doing or even planning further work on this tree. That stub will eventually need to be trimmed back to the junction but trying to do that now will only cause more damage to the already compromised roots. There is very little loss of resources in the little healing that stub may do between now and next year. Just let it be.
Also no point in planning layers or changes to roots. All that can be done if/when the tree has recovered from the transplant. I'd probably give the tree at least a year, probably closer to 2 years before making any more major changes.
Fingers crossed it survives and thrives for you.
 

Paradox

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You need to let the tree recover before you do more work on it. Because of the timing of your collection and the timing of when things should be done, you probably should leave it alone until spring 2023 as @Shibui suggests.

You already know the tree was collected at the wrong time. It's very stressed right now.
Put it in the shade and watch the watering. Hopefully it survives

Many trees die from doing things at the wrong time and from doing too much too soon
 

rockm

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Overwatering is one of the primary causes of newly collected tree death, particularly for people just starting out. The tree has no way to take up the water you're pouring on it. Its root system is compromised and disturbed. This won't correct itself for a while. The tree could get a jump on things this fall, as that is a favorable season for trees to develop roots.

This looks like a hornbeam. They're pretty tough, BUT pushing it to do much more than recover in the coming weeks will kill it.

Watch the amount of water you use for it. Soil should dry down a bit on top, Soggy soil against cut roots will inhibit root development and lead to rot. Make sure the soil you have it in drains, a lot. Porous soil, when watered, pulls air--including O2, down into the soil. O2 is necessary for tree roots to develop.

You may want to seal large pruning wounds. Hornbeam, at least the American species, has "thin skin" and wound dry out quickly, typically resulting in significant die back on the trunk--sometimes half of it or more...Sealing the wound prevents that from happening. It also keeps tissue around the wound viable for new shoots in the future. Hornbeam here typically throw new shoots and branches at or near pruning wounds.

You have to find a frost-free locaiton that stays about 35-38 degrees all winter. Freezing soil can kill off roots on newly collected trees.

If you make it through the winter, and the tree buds out in the spring, don't count on it surviving. Collected trees SHOULD NOT be worked for at least three years--preferably longer--until they have completely recovered from the initial collection process. The second winter is more critical than the first. Many collected trees limp along for a year and give up the second spring in a container.

and FWIW, don't make ANY design plans for this and for God's sake don't start carving it up next spring to follow any plans. It won't be safe to work for years to come. Let it be,. Meet its needs and again LEAVE IT ALONE.
 

Forsoothe!

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I respectfully disagree with the shade bit. It needs sunlight and since all the leaves are kaput, there is nothing to protect. Full sun and don't allow it to get bone dry, but don't keep it soggy either.
 

M_dawg

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The bark and leaves look like hornbeam or beech but i don't have much experience with ID for either of those.
It is not unusual for shoots to droop for a few weeks after collection. many roots have been damaged so the leaves just can't get enough water to stay turgid. Keep the soil evenly damp but rather than more water on the soil I would try making the air round the leaves more humid to reduce their need for water. I've seen good reports on covering newly collected trees with plastic bags or garbage bags for a few weeks until some roots recover enough to support the shoots.

There is no point doing or even planning further work on this tree. That stub will eventually need to be trimmed back to the junction but trying to do that now will only cause more damage to the already compromised roots. There is very little loss of resources in the little healing that stub may do between now and next year. Just let it be.
Also no point in planning layers or changes to roots. All that can be done if/when the tree has recovered from the transplant. I'd probably give the tree at least a year, probably closer to 2 years before making any more major changes.
Fingers crossed it survives and thrives for you.
Would it be worth putting the tree in a better draining medium when I get home and have access to some as potting soil has a tendency to get pretty clogged up.
 

M_dawg

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I respectfully disagree with the shade bit. It needs sunlight and since all the leaves are kaput, there is nothing to protect. Full sun and don't allow it to get bone dry, but don't keep it soggy either.
Would it be worth putting the tree in a better draining medium when I get home and have access to some as potting soil has a tendency to get pretty clogged up.
Overwatering is one of the primary causes of newly collected tree death, particularly for people just starting out. The tree has no way to take up the water you're pouring on it. Its root system is compromised and disturbed. This won't correct itself for a while. The tree could get a jump on things this fall, as that is a favorable season for trees to develop roots.

This looks like a hornbeam. They're pretty tough, BUT pushing it to do much more than recover in the coming weeks will kill it.

Watch the amount of water you use for it. Soil should dry down a bit on top, Soggy soil against cut roots will inhibit root development and lead to rot. Make sure the soil you have it in drains, a lot. Porous soil, when watered, pulls air--including O2, down into the soil. O2 is necessary for tree roots to develop.

You may want to seal large pruning wounds. Hornbeam, at least the American species, has "thin skin" and wound dry out quickly, typically resulting in significant die back on the trunk--sometimes half of it or more...Sealing the wound prevents that from happening. It also keeps tissue around the wound viable for new shoots in the future. Hornbeam here typically throw new shoots and branches at or near pruning wounds.

You have to find a frost-free locaiton that stays about 35-38 degrees all winter. Freezing soil can kill off roots on newly collected trees.

If you make it through the winter, and the tree buds out in the spring, don't count on it surviving. Collected trees SHOULD NOT be worked for at least three years--preferably longer--until they have completely recovered from the initial collection process. The second winter is more critical than the first. Many collected trees limp along for a year and give up the second spring in a container.

and FWIW, don't make ANY design plans for this and for God's sake don't start carving it up next spring to follow any plans. It won't be safe to work for years to come. Let it be,. Meet its needs and again LEAVE IT ALONE.
Would it be worth putting the tree in a better draining medium when I get home and have access to some as potting soil has a tendency to get pretty clogged up.
 

M_dawg

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You need to let the tree recover before you do more work on it. Because of the timing of your collection and the timing of when things should be done, you probably should leave it alone until spring 2023 as @Shibui suggests.

You already know the tree was collected at the wrong time. It's very stressed right now.
Put it in the shade and watch the watering. Hopefully it survives

Many trees die from doing things at the wrong time and from doing too much too soon
Would it be worth putting the tree in a better draining medium when I get home and have access to some as potting soil has a tendency to get pretty clogged up.
 

Paradox

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Would it be worth putting the tree in a better draining medium when I get home and have access to some as potting soil has a tendency to get pretty clogged up.

You just recently potted this tree. If you mess with the roots again so soon, you might just kill it
 

Shibui

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Exactly what @Paradox said. You have already been advised by a range of very experienced growers that it is already very stressed. You will just have to water very carefully to make the best of the soil it is currently in and cross everything that it has enough energy to overcome all the odds stacked against it.
Take what you have learned and what you may learn from this and apply it NEXT time.
 
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