Big Hornbeam(really Ironwood-Ostrya) beaver-chomped tree--next phase.

[crust]

I am inspired by the amazing Carpinus orientalis that the Croatians are doing. So last year I found and dug this Ostrya that was beaver chomped and has a super nice burl-base (not visible). Others that have collected this stuff have complained because the plant tends to died back to the lower base and the trunk or branches never pops buds and the thing degrades as a die-back tree. I decided to adopt a european technique and washed the soil all free, planted it in #3 perlite, pumice, green sphagnum mix and bagged and sweated the tree in a plastic tent for a few weeks until it popped buds on the branches and trunk. It worked and I fertilized and let it grow all year without intervention (except removing basal suckers). So now here is what I have. I am planning for a naturalistic deciduous form such as Walter and his students are doing. What are everyone's suggestion on a training path forward--I have ideas for a plan of action but no real experience with an under-story species like this.

 

[crust]

Any advise developing deciduous like this??

 

[BobbyLane]

The hedge cutting method
Lots of feed, lots of water, modern substrate i believe is the mode of action.

 

[coh]

I don't have any advice regarding this species (have never worked with it), but wanted to ask if you can say a little more about the "sweating" technique. I've seen it mentioned elsewhere but can't recall the details. Do you put the tented tree into a shady location or a location with some sun? What time of year was this done? Guess it was early-mid spring?

Chris

 

[Dan W.]

Gotta love them beavers! I have a couple of aspens that were beaver chopped; one has been chopped several times over the years. I think they will turn into very nice bonsai someday.

I don't have any real advice for you. The pictures of how those Croatians are developing their trees are probably as good as anything if you're asking for styling advice.

 

[sorce]

First.....

Good American Deciduous Bonsai.....
Is going to get a lot better....
If they follow the Croatians.
Cheers to that!

In this pic.C. Id chop the red line.

The yellow. For pic A. If feasible.

For aesthetics Only.

Speaking of Aesthetics. Nice Pot.
Is that Japanese? Antique?

Sorce

 

[JudyB]

I would let it go for a year, be safe. This is nice material. I would develop it from side A, and see if it's possible to reduce the tall straight sub trunks some, and go from there. I'd keep everything for now, until you see what you need.

 

[Waldo Street Pottery]

I am currently at he end of 2 full seasons of 3-4 of these I collected. They are strong trees and not quite as "sensitive" as the American Hornbeam cousins I've been growing since collection around the same time. By sensitive I mean they didn't die back from the chop and they grew almost all year long here in Atlanta, even through an 8 degree night last year. I think I would lose the lowest left & right branches for sure, but I might not chop where the red line is, especially if you're going for naturalistic style. Good luck, great material.

 

[mattspinniken]

Playing around this morning instead of getting actual work done

A few ideas:

 

[crust]

My questions are do I let it run unimpeded for another year, letting the shoots just elongate--or do I do major cutting: head everything back to a few buds, removing certain shoots, recutting larger cuts, grind flush larger transitions. Or some version of this. I am going to RP for sure--to organize and keep things even.

 

[sorce]

I think once you address the top....
Kind of like Sawgrass did that trident....

Maybe take back the new leader. Either one. To a close node.

I reckon you can stop thinking for a while after that. Except for new movement on keeper stuff, and everything else you already know.

Sorce