Bjorn’s Single Flush Pine technique explained!

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
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I don't understand the need to remove so much energy production.

Seems quite counterproductive.

Of course, maybe being close to dead is what helps em sleep down south!🤣

Sorce
Because the removal of a large amount of energy production forces the tree into producing a large number of energy production factories aka buds.
 

Adair M

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Because the removal of a large amount of energy production forces the tree into producing a large number of energy production factories aka buds.
That, and the tree in question is no longer in the development stage where it needs growth. It’s entering “refinement” where the focus is on managing the tree’s desire to “grow big”.
 

sorce

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I don't believe weakening the tree is necessary.
Forgive me if I assumed that was "the modern way".

Removing Buds in Fall or winter even earlier Spring when they get moving, is removing "potential energy".

Removing growth in fall removes sections that had the opportunity to contribute energy.

This, mid candle growth removal, is weakening the tree more than necessary because it has energy out into it, more than a bud alone, wasn't able to contribute, and is removed.

I removed stuff earlier and got buds.
Removing in fall gets buds.

So this argument, or reasoning, just doesn't stand.

I remove no energy like this from my mugos, and they keep small needles.

Sorce
 

sorce

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Note my particular words....

"Energy production".
The removal of "energy production".

Not energy, not growth.

Sorce
 

Vance Wood

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That, and the tree in question is no longer in the development stage where it needs growth. It’s entering “refinement” where the focus is on managing the tree’s desire to “grow big”.
There are some two needle single flush Pines that if you don't force this kind of bud production you will never have a tree worth developing in the refinement stage.
 

Vance Wood

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I don't believe weakening the tree is necessary.
Forgive me if I assumed that was "the modern way".

Removing Buds in Fall or winter even earlier Spring when they get moving, is removing "potential energy".

Removing growth in fall removes sections that had the opportunity to contribute energy.

This, mid candle growth removal, is weakening the tree more than necessary because it has energy out into it, more than a bud alone, wasn't able to contribute, and is removed.

I removed stuff earlier and got buds.
Removing in fall gets buds.

So this argument, or reasoning, just doesn't stand.

I remove no energy like this from my mugos, and they keep small needles.

Sorce
You forget one thing: A lot of what we do in bonsai is to force a tree to respond contrary to it's natural tendency. First of all I do not remove buds except in early spring when I need to encourge some additional buds from a single bud occurence at the end of a branch. What I do remove are shoots, those very things Bjorn points out in his videos, except those I remove have already extended needles fully open. This will cause the stimulation of back buds along those needle scars, on old wood of epicormic buds. Does this stress out a tree? Yes; and that's why you can only do this two years in a row allowing the tree to rest in the third. As I said; if you do not do this during the developmental stage, encouraging back budding as you go, by the time is old enough or big enough to be in the finishing stage all you will have will be pom poms on naked branches all the way to the trunk. This leaves you with the undependable choice of grafting branches into places where you could or should have had branches when you controled the situation.
 

sorce

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A lot of what we do in bonsai is to force a tree to respond contrary to it's natural tendency.

Yes and No and No and yes.

I believe some of what we do is in thinking we must force something.

It is with your "be nature" idea in which I don't believe we must force, or that the response is contrary.

I believe we do what nature does, and what the tree does is absolute.

The amount of energy the tree has is what determines the response that is absolute, enough energy, and it continues to grow, not enough, and it will move towards death.

We can elicit a safer response which is equally absolute.

Removing candles in this state where they ONLY have used energy, is wasteful and foolish.

If I read you correctly, you are removing before and after this period as well.

It is this very period of elongated but not having contributed, that is wasteful.

Small window, but it is the one I view through.

Sorce
 

Vance Wood

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Yes and No and No and yes.

I believe some of what we do is in thinking we must force something.

It is with your "be nature" idea in which I don't believe we must force, or that the response is contrary.

I believe we do what nature does, and what the tree does is absolute.

The amount of energy the tree has is what determines the response that is absolute, enough energy, and it continues to grow, not enough, and it will move towards death.

We can elicit a safer response which is equally absolute.

Removing candles in this state where they ONLY have used energy, is wasteful and foolish.

If I read you correctly, you are removing before and after this period as well.

It is this very period of elongated but not having contributed, that is wasteful.

Small window, but it is the one I view through.

Sorce
So--you are saying that I have been wasteful and foolish for the last forty years? You have seen my trees up close and personal. Did you find anything wrong with them at the time? How long have you been doing bonsai and how long have you been growing Mugo Pine as bonsai?
 

Adair M

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In an ideal tree, all parts of the tree exhibit equal, robust strength. Thus rarely happens. Some parts of the tree will be stronger than others. So, to fix this, we, as bonsai artists, try to “balance” the growth.

But, how?

Can you selectively strengthen one side, or one branch while keeping the others held in check? Can we fertilize one side and not the other?

Unfortunately, there’s no way to do that. At least, none that I’m aware of.

So...

The only option available is to strengthen the whole tree. Thus will help the weaker sections thrive. But, yes indeed, the strong sections will get even stronger! That’s where we intervene and remove the overly strong growth.

To recap: remove (or shorten) excess growth in the strong sections, retain the strong growth in the weaker sections.

Pinching the strong candles in a reasonably early stage will allow the tree time to set new terminal buds on those truncated candles for the following year. This creates shorter internodes than if they were left untouched. Noting to do with “back budding”. Just creating shorter future internodes. If, over the years, the tree has been well maintained, there should be lots of branches farther back towards the trunk. No “back budding” is required. At that point, the tree is no longer “under development” when back budding is desired to develop structure. The structure is set. Refinement and maintenance is the next step.
 
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