Bloodgood Question

[Vin]

I purchased this 5 foot tall Bloodgood last year with the vision that I could learn from it. What I have learned is that there are varying opinions on whether or not they make good bonsai material. The issue seems to be with the internode distance. This one looks to have some shorter internodes than others. I've read that if you keep them in full sun the tree isn't laboriously "searching for light" thus shorter internodes. I'm either going to chop it this weekend or plant it as landscape tree. Any thoughts?

 

[Vin]

One more Photo

Here is one more photo

 

[Paulkellum]

Blood goods don't have great leaf size either Iv got40yr old one in my back yard and love it. But I think it could work just not as good as some with more dwarf leaf.

 

[Vin]

Laef Sample

Blood goods don't have great leaf size either Iv got40yr old one in my back yard and love it. But I think it could work just not as good as some with more dwarf leaf.

The leaf on the left is from the Bloodgood in question; about 1 1/2 inches. The one on the right is also from a Bloodgood but the tree is much smaller and probably kept in the shade most of it's life.

 

[Paradox]

Did you get it from a box store? This might not have been labeled right. It often happens at box stores, they just label it with a close label. Ive seen Eastern white labeled as mugo at Home Depot.

Every bloodgood Ive seen has red leaves or dark red-green leaves not bright green and they are not shaped like that (they have more lobes).
The color of this trunk looks like a green maple to me.

Also if you keep this tree in full sun in Fla, you can expect severe leaf scorching in summer.

Internodes are kept short by pinching new shoots in the spring and not by keeping a tree in full sun or shade.

In any case, that doesnt look like its been grafted and the trunk has a nice shape so it could make a nice tree someday.

Good luck with it.

 

[Vin]

I did get it at Lowe's on clearance for $60. Maybe it was not tagged correctly? My thought was to air-layer the entire left branch this year and reduce everything to the right. I figured I would see where the cards fell in the fall and go from there. I also wanted to get it in a slightly smaller pot because it's just plain to damn heavy to move around. I've had JM's in the yard for about 12 years or so. You're right, they do not like the Florida sunshine especially in July and August.

 

[small trees]

I keep seeing people post good-sized maples that they got from box stores. Mine never carry anything but fruit trees and bradford pears! Guess I'll keep searching. Nice tree!

 

[Dav4]

I think it's worth working with. I've never had a bloodgood bonsai, but I know the rap on them is leaf size and coarse/longish internodes. You deal with that by making a bigger finished tree. You've got a good base and descent trunk movement I'd figure out what trunk(s) you want to keep for your design, make you're chops and repot now into a grow box/training pot. Don't be afraid to work the roots, too...the tree may be slow growing this year, but you can't put off root work on maples.

 

[CHUCHIN]

I think it's worth working with. I've never had a bloodgood bonsai, but I know the wrap on them is leaf size and coarse/longish internodes. You deal with that by making a bigger finished tree. You've got a good base and descent trunk movement I'd figure out what trunk(s) you want to keep for your design, make you're chops and repot now into a grow box/training pot. Don't be afraid to work the roots, too...the tree may be slow growing this year, but you can't put off root work on maples.

If this is indeed a true bloodgood, I would be interested in seeing your leaf reduction on those. They are aggressive growers than most Japanese Maples... My issue is those Sycamore sized leaves. At the end big leaves or not have fun...It all equals Bonsai

 

[Kodama16]

That's not a blood. That's a standard dwarf japanese red maple. I have a few of them. I got 2 from lowes for around 90$ same size and everything.

They make great bonsai. I personally would bonsai it. I wouldn't just chop it this year. In Florida the sap should be pushing already. And chopping it could hurt the tree bad right now. I'd let it leaf. After that I'd air layer the left and right trunk off. And keep the middle. I'd also air layer the middle top off. That way you have 3 more trees for fun. At the point you chop the 3 new trees off I'd make the center trunk the new leader with that small branch at the bottom of it.

These guy grow great on there own roots from air layers.

As a yard tree it's crappy. If planted like that it will grow and finialy split down the middle. To plant it right you must remove the left or right side.

Either way you go you will be cutting this tree in half at lease.

 

[Dav4]

If you are planning to work this tree as a bonsai, you're going to need to work the roots and chop it. You can use it as a source of air layers, but you won't be able to set it on the road to becoming a bonsai until the season after you perform the air layer. Personally, I don't think there is anything in the upper 3/4 of the canopy that would be worth performing an air layer and pushing the tree's development back a whole year. Your choice, really. I have several palmatums I've purchased solely to collect air layers from...the base will get tossed when I'm done. The base is the best part of this tree, and it's the part of the tree I'd be wanting to develop. If this were mine, I'd chop it and work the roots tomorrow...

 

[Vin]

That's not a blood. That's a standard dwarf japanese red maple. I have a few of them. I got 2 from lowes for around 90$ same size and everything.

They make great bonsai. I personally would bonsai it. I wouldn't just chop it this year. In Florida the sap should be pushing already. And chopping it could hurt the tree bad right now. I'd let it leaf. After that I'd air layer the left and right trunk off. And keep the middle. I'd also air layer the middle top off. That way you have 3 more trees for fun. At the point you chop the 3 new trees off I'd make the center trunk the new leader with that small branch at the bottom of it.

These guy grow great on there own roots from air layers.

As a yard tree it's crappy. If planted like that it will grow and finialy split down the middle. To plant it right you must remove the left or right side.

Either way you go you will be cutting this tree in half at lease.

That's great info to know. We've had some pretty cool weather here. The buds are not swelling yet so I don't believe the sap is pushing yet but I could be wrong.

 

[drew33998]

It won't be long. Our native maples have already bloomed and are leafing out in jax. Pretty early even for us but we have had a mild winter.

 

[Vin]

If you are planning to work this tree as a bonsai, you're going to need to work the roots and chop it. You can use it as a source of air layers, but you won't be able to set it on the road to becoming a bonsai until the season after you perform the air layer. Personally, I don't think there is anything in the upper 3/4 of the canopy that would be worth performing an air layer and pushing the tree's development back a whole year. Your choice, really. I have several palmatums I've purchased solely to collect air layers from...the base will get tossed when I'm done. The base is the best part of this tree, and it's the part of the tree I'd be wanting to develop. If this were mine, I'd chop it and work the roots tomorrow...

I purchased this solely for the base with the intent on keeping the branch to the right and working it from there. I'm so damn cheap is why I wanted to layer the other branch off. I'm very new to bonsai so I need all the help I can get. Thanks for the insight.

 

[Kodama16]

I purchased this solely for the base with the intent on keeping the branch to the right and working it from there. I'm so damn cheap is why I wanted to layer the other branch off. I'm very new to bonsai so I need all the help I can get. Thanks for the insight.

I always air layer. I hate waisting the tree

As for checking for sap flow cut a medium branch off and see if the sap flows out. It f doesn't flow your safe. If it runs like water after a few mins then don't chop it's too late in my opinion.

Ill take some photos of all the cuttings I make from these red maples. They root very easy. Just put them in damp soil and boom 50% take. A lot of free trees this way: )

 

[Kodama16]

It won't be long. Our native maples have already bloomed and are leafing out in jax. Pretty early even for us but we have had a mild winter.

Yea I'm in Louisiana and mine are pushing sap hard. I cut this weekend and I think I waited too long.
A lot of my maples are leafing already.

 

[Vin]

I always air layer. I hate waisting the tree

As for checking for sap flow cut a medium branch off and see if the sap flows out. It f doesn't flow your safe. If it runs like water after a few mins then don't chop it's too late in my opinion.

Ill take some photos of all the cuttings I make from these red maples. They root very easy. Just put them in damp soil and boom 50% take. A lot of free trees this way: )

I'll do it in the morning. Thanks!