Blue Star Browning Tips and Pest ID

Theo Smith

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Hello,

Hope all is well. I’m wondering if anyone has any input on this situation. I’m in South Florida, this tree has been thriving for the year that I’ve had it. It’s been outside, great morning light, moderate shade mid-day and a couple hours of direct sun in the afternoon. About three weeks ago I noticed browning tips. Could be drought stress as we’ve hit the dry season although I’m pretty attentive with watering. I’ve been in a miniature war with spider mites, used the paper trick and tested positive. I’ve treated the tree with imidacloprid and most recently neem oil. Grabbed the microscope tonight and this is what I saw. Not sure what these are, scale? Thanks in advance for any advice. AFB63D8C-1A0C-4BDC-A960-AE9304295BC3.jpeg671D44A7-9597-4AA7-85A1-83AEDCE43694.jpeg739868C6-FAE3-4460-9FCB-5B4D9765DE55.jpegFD939DFD-718B-4B07-8E74-B90AD2077D28.jpeg444E343A-03F1-4B2B-8CE5-7D801124D442.jpeg
 

Theo Smith

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Pictures of the affected areas. There is some interior growth that is browning as well. Not sure if this is fungal or pest. I’ve since moved the tree into an area with more sun, increased my watering vigilance and am now removing the brown tips. Thanks again! C8042F2A-4DF4-4115-B4B5-26232A6BA971.jpegE9142576-E64A-4596-8E85-C4BBD53EF4DB.jpeg924F523C-5665-4009-A178-89F1CEFF2F3E.jpeg
 

Paradox

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Yes those are scale and it looks like it has a pretty bad case of them

The browning tips I believe is from the spider mites

You said you treated with Imodacloprid, was that in a spray form or granular systemic?

Be careful if watering too much. If the soil isnt almost dry, it doesnt need water.
 

Theo Smith

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Yes those are scale and it looks like it has a pretty bad case of them

The browning tips I believe is from the spider mites

You said you treated with Imodacloprid, was that in a spray form or granular systemic?

Be careful if watering too much. If the soil isnt almost dry, it doesnt need water.
Hi Paradox,
Thank you for the confirmation. I used a foliar application twice, seven days apart. I’ve used it before with no side effects, burning etc. I’ve since picked up the granulated form as I’m not a big fan of spraying chemicals. Do you have any recommendations on treatment? I’m planning to apply neem every seven days until I can get this under control. I can’t locate scale outside of this area on the plant. 10-4 on the watering. I’ve been pretty light on the watering as it’s in nursery mix and I know they’re sensitive to wet feet. I’ll make sure to pay closer attention to watering.
 

Paradox

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You should look at the label of the imodacloprid and see if scale is listed as a critter it kills.
If scale is listed, and youve treated it 2 times, I would try to scrape some of the scale off and see if it is still alive or not.
If that stuff does kill scale, they should be pretty much dead. I would probably treat once more, 7 days after you last treated it.

The neem treatments should take care of it but you need to make sure you do enough applications that take care of different life stages.
So treating it every 7 days for a month should do it, but I would treat again 2 weeks after the last one.
Dont put the tree out in the sun while it is wet with the neem oil. Let it dry first.

If scale is not listed on imodacloprid product, then I would use something like Sevin which does list scale.
*EDIT* I just checked and impdacloprid apparently doesnt kill armored scale which is what you have.

I know you dont like spraying chemicals, Im not crazy about it either but sometimes you have to use insecticides and fungicides in bonsai.
Once you start having trees that you have spent years developing and/or are worth some money you arent going to want to take chances with an insect infestation.
 
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From my experience this past summer with a major mite infestation, you may still see your trees suffer long after the mites are eliminated. Some of the damage seems to take weeks or months to show up.
 

Theo Smith

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From my experience this past summer with a major mite infestation, you may still see your trees suffer long after the mites are eliminated. Some of the damage seems to take weeks or months to show up.
Grrr. Spider mites and mealybugs are my main adversaries. I’ve got a landscape Plumeria adjacent to my main benches that really attracted a cornucopia of pests this year and it’s been a host plant. Didn’t help me out at all, and it constantly flowers so I won’t treat it with systemics. Are you seeing this long lasting effect across all of your species or specifically with your Junipers? Thanks in advance!
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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If you want to get mites and scale under control, you MUST treat all the plants in close proximity, meaning you must treat the Plumeria. It doesn't matter whether the Plumeria is blooming or not, you must treat it if you want to get control of what is infecting your junipers. Or move the junipers 50 feet or more away from the Plumeria.

Imidaproclid only works on insects, and not all insects. It has absolutely no effect on spider mites. Neem is sometimes listed as a miticide, but I found it relatively ineffective on mites. Neem is primarily an anti-feedant, meaning it causes insects to quit feeding, and slowly starve to death. Neem is also listed as having fungicidal effects. It is listed as being "good for whatever ails the plant". Truth is, it has some effect in a wide array of pests and fungi, but it is not particularly effective in any of them. Neem would not be my first choice for a serious infestation. Repeat applications over time will eventually work, but you might be re-applying for months.

You should pick up a miticide that is specifically labelled for mites and not a "kills em all" miracle cure.

For the armored scale, a product like Sevin is a good approach. Read the label, make sure the label says armored scale.

Scale are insects, Mites are arachnids, there are few or no pesticides that kill both mites and insects. You will need two different products.
 

Theo Smith

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If you want to get mites and scale under control, you MUST treat all the plants in close proximity, meaning you must treat the Plumeria. It doesn't matter whether the Plumeria is blooming or not, you must treat it if you want to get control of what is infecting your junipers. Or move the junipers 50 feet or more away from the Plumeria.

Imidaproclid only works on insects, and not all insects. It has absolutely no effect on spider mites. Neem is sometimes listed as a miticide, but I found it relatively ineffective on mites. Neem is primarily an anti-feedant, meaning it causes insects to quit feeding, and slowly starve to death. Neem is also listed as having fungicidal effects. It is listed as being "good for whatever ails the plant". Truth is, it has some effect in a wide array of pests and fungi, but it is not particularly effective in any of them. Neem would not be my first choice for a serious infestation. Repeat applications over time will eventually work, but you might be re-applying for months.

You should pick up a miticide that is specifically labelled for mites and not a "kills em all" miracle cure.

For the armored scale, a product like Sevin is a good approach. Read the label, make sure the label says armored scale.

Scale are insects, Mites are arachnids, there are few or no pesticides that kill both mites and insects. You will need two different products.
Leo, thank you for the input! I have used Bayer 3-1 in the past but, I’ve always had the thought that I should be using something targeted for the pest I’m looking to get rid of. As to avoid killing beneficial insects. I’ll do my research on the miticide and pick up Sevin. The plumeria is a disaster this year, it has plumeria rust, scale, aphids and I think thrips. I’m considering contacting UF IFAS’ local office, they’re a great resource. I might just take it down, I’m not a fan of the pink variety. Either way, I’ll definitely remedy the pest issues. Thanks again!
 

AJL

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Make sure you quarantine and isolate your infested Juniper well away from other conifers until youre sure its eradicated,and be aware it and other pests might be present in your nearby garden trees which could be a source of further infestations. Juniper scale also called cypress scale affects many conifer species and is common on arborvitae, cypress, and juniper. I had success controlling it on small juniper by plunging the plant upside down in a bucket of detergent soap solution for several hours. This might also help eradicate spider mite!
 

Theo Smith

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Make sure you quarantine and isolate your infested Juniper well away from other conifers until youre sure its eradicated,and be aware it and other pests might be present in your nearby garden trees which could be a source of further infestations. Juniper scale also called cypress scale affects many conifer species and is common on arborvitae, cypress, and juniper. I had success controlling it on small juniper by plunging the plant upside down in a bucket of detergent soap solution for several hours. This might also help eradicate spider mite!
Thank you for the input! I’m not the biggest Juniper grower, tropicals are my bag (*Austin Powers voice) it’s isolated and very far from the other two Junipers I have (gifted nursery stock). I’ll be sure to keep it away from all conifer species. I like the plunging idea. The idea of water boarding pests instantly makes me happy! Thanks again.
 

sorce

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I'm only guessing you have a 90 more important than this 10.

Maybe 99/1, or even 99.99/.01 but I don't wanna make judgements!

Sorce
 

PA_Penjing

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Blue star juniper is from the frigid Himilayas. Did you buy the plant locally? I only point this out because growing a plant outside of a climate it prefers can lead to endless battles with poor health. i've read a few times they are fairly sensitive to hot summers.
 

Theo Smith

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I'm only guessing you have a 90 more important than this 10.

Maybe 99/1, or even 99.99/.01 but I don't wanna make judgements!

Sorce
Sorce, I’ll always welcome your judgement. You’re fun and a sentinel for this forum in my eyes. I’m hesitant to say that I don’t enjoy Junipers (please don’t dox me, I have young children 😆) because I have a great appreciation for the practitioners that produce beautiful material with them. I bought this plant because I love to learn and living in the comfort zone is gross to me. The memory of me snapping the back branch off of my W. Religiosa is way more upsetting than losing this tree would be. Post Norse funeral, I’d probably buy another one lol. The ole burn and learn!
 

Theo Smith

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Blue star juniper is from the frigid Himilayas. Did you buy the plant locally? I only point this out because growing a plant outside of a climate it prefers can lead to endless battles with poor health. i've read a few times they are fairly sensitive to hot summers.
Good evening! I got it from my Canadian neighbor for two Labatt Blues and some spray on SPF 50. Just kidding, I picked it up from a landscaping nursery about two miles from my house. It did well through the summer. I don’t know PA_Penjing, guess I’ll get my Glad Cling Wrap around this root ball and get to dunking.
 
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