@Peter44 - I use the Top Jin, the stuff that dries orange, as my main initial cut paste, It is a must for azalea & Japanese Maples, to prevent disease from getting into the trunk. For large cuts on azalea and JM, I will put a layer of Top Jin down, then a day or two later, cover with a putty. The putty will keep the wound moist, necessary for the cambium to more rapidly grow and cover the wound.
The glazier's putty, also known as window calk, I've used the one from Dap, it works fine. Basically it is clay, as in pottery clay, mixed with linseed oil and a preservative or two.
The cans of Japanese putty used as cut paste are pretty dry and hard, but if you warm a blob up in your hand, or a few second, just a few, not too long, in the microwave it becomes soft enough.
Maples, azalea, and hornbeam are the trees I find cut paste most useful for. There may be others that should be on the list. Many other trees I've taken to leaving a long stub, let it dry and a year or two later trimming it short. Usually skip the cut paste, but sometimes not.
As for that forestry orientated article, forget it. It does not apply to what we are doing.
