Bonsai Raft Question

[Deleted member 47471]

When creating raft in bonsai, which method of new/additional root growth would be faster and more beneficial (if possible)?

A) Flush branch removal and cutting bark windows (with root hormone)

B) Reducing branches close to trunk and coating ends with root hormone

Is there an inherent physiological difference between the two?

 

[NaoTK]

I suspect B will not work as well as A. In B you are asking the branch segment to reverse course and become roots for the main trunk. The branch segment might just die back to the trunk anyway, depending on the species. On a crab apple, which roots easily, you might get better results with B.

 

[ShadyStump]

I suspect B will not work as well as A. In B you are asking the branch segment to reverse course and become roots for the main trunk. The branch segment might just die back to the trunk anyway, depending on the species. On a crab apple, which roots easily, you might get better results with B.

Agreed. Salix (willows) have been known to do this exact thing, but it's not something I would count on.

@Bonsai Forest while it might seem that leaving stumps of branches would give a headstart on roots and nebari, those branches are built to run resources in the other direction from what you want them too.
Have you done any air layering? If not, read up on it, and it will give an understanding of what dynamics are in play. You're essentially using the same concepts when rooting a raft.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

I suspect B will not work as well as A. In B you are asking the branch segment to reverse course and become roots for the main trunk. The branch segment might just die back to the trunk anyway, depending on the species. On a crab apple, which roots easily, you might get better results with B.

Thank you! I understand

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Agreed. Salix (willows) have been known to do this exact thing, but it's not something I would count on.

@Bonsai Forest while it might seem that leaving stumps of branches would give a headstart on roots and nebari, those branches are built to run resources in the other direction from what you want them too.
Have you done any air layering? If not, read up on it, and it will give an understanding of what dynamics are in play. You're essentially using the same concepts when rooting a raft.

That makes sense to me. I learned about air layering recently, and I understand the traffic of nutrients, water, and energy running in both directions. I will stick with option A, the flush bark windows. Thank you for the information!

 

[RKatzin]

I am creating a raft forest with an airlayer branch on a Kiyohime JM. I did some preparatory pruning and removed all downward branches to the trunk. I just removed the airlayer yesterday and planted it with the entire trunkline buried. The Kiyohime roots cuttings fairly easily so no additional rooting hormone was used. On harder to root trees, like Makawa yatsabusa I might use rooting hormone along the trunk. I have one of those in the works also.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

I am creating a raft forest with an airlayer branch on a Kiyohime JM. I did some preparatory pruning and removed all downward branches to the trunk. I just removed the airlayer yesterday and planted it with the entire trunkline buried. The Kiyohime roots cuttings fairly easily so no additional rooting hormone was used. On harder to root trees, like Makawa yatsabusa I might use rooting hormone along the trunk. I have one of those in the works also.

I wish you well on that project!

 

[RKatzin]

Thanks and the best of growing to you also

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

Hi,
I have a Juniper raft project going here and the thread title is something like -
Kiwi’s Telephone pole Juniper - as you will see I asked for ideas to convert a boring tree into something different. Also you will see in my pictures how I got roots via stripping the bark length ways down the trunk, kind of ground layer.
Hope the thread helps,
Charles