Boxwood For Real.

sorce

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That one just above....note the frozen lifted moss. Still froze!

And pots!
20180308_113603.jpg

All these were potted in Summer.
Pruned from spring thru early fall.

Yes...

This is enough proof for me that EVEN VERY DRASTIC REMOVALS ARE SAFE.

AS LONG AS THEY ARE EQUAL!

Sorce
 
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This is comforting. I think, like most beginners, that drastic removal is scary.
This boxwood-specific discussion is invaluable.
 

sorce

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sorce

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Thanks for sharing all of this, once again.

The well spring renews!

I've begun season 2 of understanding these things....

This being the first year I have healthy ones before about 6inches of spring growth, I'm noting a few things about how the nursery treats these before we receive them...

Which may lead to a much better understanding of how to more quickly identify good starter material. Or at least, understanding the state they are in when we recieve them in spring, in order to deduce correctly which actions should be taken first, in order to best work with what we have.

Already, in, "Boxwood wants to be a bonsai" fashion...
I'm noting best initial treatment being exactly what we all want to do!

Hacking the shit out of top and bottom and putting it in a bonsai pot!

Or a colander if a bit more development is needed first.

Some of the ones with better Nebari have been ruined from winter in Nursery cans...
The moisture and freeze thaw lifted the bark. Which has been a problem I seek to overcome.

The ones in bonsai pots with what is most importantly noted as...
Thick moss with mostly no substrate of its own atop the 8822 soil...

Haven't noted any damage yet.
If I do...trimming moss a bit lower, may help.

But I am seriously considering putting all my trees into an area for winter where they will recieve absolutely no rain or snow, so I can control moisture better thru dormancy.

Sorce
 
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Which "the show" do you mean, @M. Frary ?
Season 1 is good, too (yay me!).
It introduces the characters that will be developed in season 2... the characters that become comfortable old friends in season three!
 

M. Frary

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Which "the show" do you mean, @M. Frary ?
Season 1 is good, too (yay me!).
It introduces the characters that will be developed in season 2... the characters that become comfortable old friends in season three!
Our annual club show near Detroit. I only visit my club once per year. Its 3 hours away. I mainly go there to see Vance. But also sell trees. Some I've collected and some I don't want anymore.
I also bring trees to work on there.
It's mainly a social gathering for me. I check out demonstrations. Watch judging. Hopefully this year I'll have a couple trees ready to show. I had some a few years ago that would have been ready but the V.C.ruined that idea so I had to start over.
 

milehigh_7

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@sorce Have you checked out Michael Hagedorn's blog? His most recent post at the moment is on a cool Boxwood.
https://crataegus.com/2017/09/01/japanese-boxwood-as-bonsai/

Michael said at the end, " I no longer leave the long shoot with two leaves at the end but rather cut back to bare buds further down the shoot, which allows the tree to ramify from closer inside. I’ve found that it’s not necessary to leave leaves on each shoot. "

However he definitely still defoliates and does not cut to the lowest fork. He simply said it's not necessary to leave that last pair.
 

Sn0W

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@sorce I picked up a few big boxwoods from a nursery thinking of using one of them as my not a contest tree. But I also have a really cool juniper I found so I haven't settled yet. Back to the point however, I was researching on box and came across this video:


It's a 4 part but I've only watched the first 2, thought you might find it interesting.
 

sorce

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In an effort to prove or disprove an appropriate sustainable schedule, some thoughts on last years work.

I must hold a belief that any new nursery box was pruned once the year before.

This box was pruned last spring, pruned again in Summer when it was repotted..and wintered unmulched on a ground level outdoor concrete window sill..for radiant heat. With side wind protection, and a pallet leaned over top.
20180412_090437.jpg
It came thru fine.
So this schedule goes. .
Pre ownership prune year before.
Spring prune, summer prune and repot.

So I can't say yet multiple years of pruning twice is sustainable.
But if we consider insults..
1 prior year, 3 current year.
This is equal to 2 every year.

With a shot of confidence due to boxes "smart' ability to grow purposely to the 3 set silhouettes ...

I will need to pay attention to this new life in a small pot, to see if it will remain happy enough to continue being pruned twice...
The fact that this came out of winter like this.....pretty friggin confident.

This may or may not have been dog urine burn, but another got this color too that couldnt have been urinated on. Either way, the green fert balls in nursery pots CAN HAVE THE SAME BURNING EFFECT AS DOG PISS...so it's the same for me ..getting these out of black pots is essential!
20180412_084308_HDR.jpg

That burned one had only one less insult, it wasn't repotted. Hmmmm....

Freeze...burn...?
20180412_084258.jpg
Each root except one thick one going straight down is ruined and completely useless.

Compared to that which were protected by my good friend moss. 20180412_084253_HDR.jpg
20180412_092244.jpg
Completely healthy...
Took the same ice and cold.

Piss...or fert....it must be chemical burn.

FYI...it will be freezing here again...the sun had these black pots at close to 80 degrees the last couple days....so not good!

A random shot of my BBB soon to flower.20180410_101408_HDR.jpg
This one was dying last year...after a little successful spring growth it was drying up new foliage. Inspected and found hydrophobic dry soil...repotted off time...
Further pruned later in the year a bit .....

Absolutely ready to do this year....
Yes, these actually want to be Bonsai.

Dare I say the only reason we call them 'slow' is the foolish way we have been treating them...I will soon!

Plus....name a bonsai tool that can cut at this angle.
20180412_092304_HDR.jpg

Yup...not the smallest concave cutters scissors or shears labeled "bonsai" can make this cut.

I'm gonna have some "proper nexts" proof next.

Sorce
 

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GrimLore

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Freeze...burn...?

Every year I kill one... Have not figured out why or what exactly causes that yellow leaf but SFGATE suggests a few things, I noticed your "bad" one seems to have poor soil conditions. Anyways here is a quote from their notes on the subject -

"Winter Injury
Winter winds, frost and bright winter sun can cause foliage to yellow or turn a sickly shade of bronze or orange. This is especially common on Japanese boxwoods (Buxus microphylla var. japonica) during the winter and may also affect plants that are in an exposed location. Yellowing can be reduced by either planting the shrub in a shaded, sheltered location or by putting up a wind break to protect the plant. Despite winter yellowing, plants usually produce new growth in the spring that is healthy and green.
Root Rot
Phytophthora root rot is a fungal disease that causes leaves to gradually turn from light green to yellow or bronze. Leaves may curl upwards and the bark on the base of the hedge may die. The roots will often turn brown and eventually the entire top of the plant yellows and dies. Root rot may occur due to poorly-draining soil which becomes waterlogged during periods of heavy rain. Prevent root rot by planting hedges on raised beds or treating with a soil drench fungicide.

Nematodes
Parasitic nematodes steal nutrients from boxwood plants by attacking the roots, causing the plant to turn yellow or brown. Ultimately, the plant becomes stunted and dieback occurs. Nematodes are difficult to control once established. Some chemical controls can only be applied by a licensed operator. Healthy plants that are well watered and fertilized are more likely to tolerate some damage from nematodes than plants that are stressed due to drought or poor soil drainage.
English Boxwood Decline
English boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) is subject to English boxwood decline, a slow disease that starts with bronzing leaves. Leaves eventually turn orange, green, pale yellow and then brown. Eventually the leaves all drop, leaving just the twigs standing. English boxwood decline is best prevented by taking good care of the plant: protecting it from harsh winter weather, watering regularly, and removing plant debris from around the plant that can potentially harbor diseases and pests."

Grimmy
 

sorce

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I spent time again knocking opposite buds and setting this on a safe path for growth until reevaluated.

It worked so well last year, I easily found all the forks I left tridented last year with these spring cuts in mind.

Where No defined structure and path was set last year, a simple mindless cut back to last years summer dormancy nodes provided (as per the 3 silhouettes) the perfect area to cut to....
This will be the Only areas I will need to be mindfully observing till Dormancy this summer....
Bud knocking and proper nexts will be addressed as growth happens...watching for "it depends".


This is a disclaimer of sorts....

If you can't find the difference in these 2 pics...and can't say why this tiniest of details is superimportant..
20180412_092452.jpg

20180412_092607.jpg
You have to go back and read this whole thing if you really want to make this work.

If you are not willing to pay attention to these tiny details, I am uncertain you will find success with this method.

One leaf was removed to expose that horizontal bud, for light for strength, for a better visual for observation, to keep that SD area that has many buds from swelling, and to allow me to control where the bud grows, rather than letting it move into light created by the shade of that one leaf.

And entire paragraph of purpose ....

One leaf.

This is the kind of attention to details that builds good trees.

This is just the first year I found Life enough to make fruit.

I'll use my other Swepper to keep sweeping BS under the Blue Rug you may be sleeping on....20180412_160406.jpg
20180412_175139.jpg

I made one decision in the low right apex to remove an UGLY.
I had to leave the bar branch that moves inward from the thick left one on the tall apex, to see if I get growth enough this year to not have an ugly gap if I remove it.

The trident there itself will be hidden with evergreen foliage....and growth will be slow enough to keep it from bulging uglier...

My one drawback is...the part I want to remove is in the way of a branch already growing well enough to replace it...
Thos must be observe carefully since the only thing left in the balance is my own confidence. Time is ticking on "perfect". Only I am standing in my way. FVG's on tune!

Boxwood want a to be a bonsai so bad.....

It even guides you where to clean up old cut to perfectly.

So easy to define the callous edge and where to recut.
Hard wood, but even my Kaneshin 4S B? Concave cutters work well....

Of course...there is that other ticking time bomb on perfect.
You MUST clean up cuts correctly ASAP before You can no longer get the right tool safely in there....

Let it guide you to that perfect outline...
It wants to have nice curves for you too!

And it Wants to heal over them!

But even if it doesn't....it will color change to almost invisible in one season anyway.
So it will accept your imperfect cuts too!

Of course this disclaimer.....

This shit only happens if you see how and why these small details build box faster than defoliation of any kind.

Sorce
 

sorce

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Every year I kill one... Have not figured out why or what exactly causes that yellow leaf but SFGATE suggests a few things, I noticed your "bad" one seems to have poor soil conditions. Anyways here is a quote from their notes on the subject -

"Winter Injury
Winter winds, frost and bright winter sun can cause foliage to yellow or turn a sickly shade of bronze or orange. This is especially common on Japanese boxwoods (Buxus microphylla var. japonica) during the winter and may also affect plants that are in an exposed location. Yellowing can be reduced by either planting the shrub in a shaded, sheltered location or by putting up a wind break to protect the plant. Despite winter yellowing, plants usually produce new growth in the spring that is healthy and green.
Root Rot
Phytophthora root rot is a fungal disease that causes leaves to gradually turn from light green to yellow or bronze. Leaves may curl upwards and the bark on the base of the hedge may die. The roots will often turn brown and eventually the entire top of the plant yellows and dies. Root rot may occur due to poorly-draining soil which becomes waterlogged during periods of heavy rain. Prevent root rot by planting hedges on raised beds or treating with a soil drench fungicide.

Nematodes
Parasitic nematodes steal nutrients from boxwood plants by attacking the roots, causing the plant to turn yellow or brown. Ultimately, the plant becomes stunted and dieback occurs. Nematodes are difficult to control once established. Some chemical controls can only be applied by a licensed operator. Healthy plants that are well watered and fertilized are more likely to tolerate some damage from nematodes than plants that are stressed due to drought or poor soil drainage.
English Boxwood Decline
English boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) is subject to English boxwood decline, a slow disease that starts with bronzing leaves. Leaves eventually turn orange, green, pale yellow and then brown. Eventually the leaves all drop, leaving just the twigs standing. English boxwood decline is best prevented by taking good care of the plant: protecting it from harsh winter weather, watering regularly, and removing plant debris from around the plant that can potentially harbor diseases and pests."

Grimmy

Not to discredit any of this absolutely correct info, but to utilize it for the truth which it adds to my findings.....

Of yellow Edges Specifically, I haven't had it return since I have kept mine on a East facing wall. Specifically, an airy open area protected from Afternoon sun. My prior situation where sat in the heat holding parapet tar wall situation caused yellpw edges too.
I found it to be a BALANCE of Enough Sun for health...And cool shade time.

Consider...a plant in the shade all day except for an hour around high noon may not get enough "gentle sun" to prep it for the "hot hot sun". Tiny Acclimation if you will!

Also, while my information and controls are limited, my keen observation of them is not at all....what I can only note as true in the roots....

The Only ones I have this root bark problem on are the ones that were left with chemical fert balls, or have been previously liquid chem ferted.

These shallow potted English are in DE fines...which I thought too wet...and the moss didn't dry all winter....it did freeze solid and lift off the soil!

At which point I noted DE "fluffs"..where nursery soil, no matter how loose, gets rock hard compact frozen...

Fucking Wonder Soil!
Thru Observation!
I wouldn't worry about putting the most strongest Temperate root grower in a bagpot of DE in winter....
It is being noted as PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR IT TO HAVE THE FORCE NECCESARY TO BREAK A POT.

One simply can not say they have observed this in a pot full of Akadama broken down to unknown consistency in a bonsai pot.

This is not anti AKADAMA...
Its pro...use your common sense...

Using AKADAMA comes with other necessary processes....Soji? Is that right?
The cleaning of the soil surface in fall in preparation for winter....

This is Part of the SYSTEM of Akadama use...when the JAPANESE use their common sense and OBSERVE.

Or no longer have to observe because they have OBSERVED FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

So there's that Resorce.

Oh plus...I read recently that the Fish Fert introduces or otherwise encourages good nematodes..... Every healthy box I have was completely stripped of all green balls and has not seem chem since...only fish.

The ecosystem in these shallow pots is already establishing itself as balanced and healthy. The System as a whole, moss, shallow pot, pure DE, chem free....specifically.

Sorce
 

sorce

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Basically, I have a good dialogue with these trees. But only because THEY tell so easily.

Also...to further hit Chems in the face with the truth that they SUCK balls!

This Mugo is plenty enough tell for me to KNOW these Balls rot the shit out of roots...

And KILL mycorizza.20180327_114611.jpg

20180327_114559_HDR.jpg

If this ain't enough for EVERYONE TO STOP USING OR TRUSTING "time released" or chemical anything....

People say "all fert is chemical"..true!

Ok..but...
Natures transportation is a horse. Horse provides fert.
Man's transportation is a car, kills horses, and while plants need Carbon Dioxide , they provide enough Carbon Monoxide to kill humans, arguably plant too.

Man made meth.
Nature made weed.

So yes...they are both chemicals....

But that Just isn't the DIFFERENCE we're talking about!

Sorce
 

Sn0W

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Not wanting to get into an arguement because i have no proof in either direction as this will be my first growing season but didn't you say that those balls popped / melted in that mugo pot as they were up against the black pot wall and got super heated? I would argue that this may be a freak occurence in light of a lack of other evidence. By all means submit the theory but you cannot call something fact based off of one event.

I seem to have acquired more boxwood than anything else, I think I'm up to 8 now, so I'm following this thread eagerly and the information is great. I'm going to be experimenting with different methods on my own so I can compare results with yours.
 
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