Thanks for the reply. That’s in the plans for next May! There was no real repotting this year. I’ve heard that cutting back too far without also removing root mass is not wise. I like what you’ve done with this tree.If you don’t have the back budding you want by mid spring next year, a root prune and cutting back each branch to the lowest four leaves has gotten me more backbudding then I ever wanted. And you can use it to really get the roots horizontal on one plane. They look like they are already shaped for a nice nebari if you can get the roots growing only where you need them.
Here is my buxus oak thread:
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/a-blue-bill-buxus-built-to-be-a-broom.25523/
Here is my buxus oak thread:
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/a-blue-bill-buxus-built-to-be-a-broom.25523/
Thanks.Thanks for sharing the thread. Super helpful, and work well done. Nice tree.
It is a balancing act that is difficult to just throw a number out there without knowing your particular tree. Generally speaking, a boxwood that is thriving and actively growing can take a higher percentage of foliage pruning in relation to root pruning. A weaker tree has a much harder time dealing with a lack of balance. If you have already pruned your foliage and the tree is responding well I would not try to rectify anything this year. Next Spring, I would repot and address the roots and then "balance" prune the foliage.@Vin do you happen to know how too much roots wih less leaves was harmful to the tree? I recently did a heavy prune and was hesitant to root prune to not stress the tree out too much. With the season getting ready to turn over to a hardening phase, im wondering if i should rectify that this year before overwintering