Boxwood-when can I wire and prune?

clevetromba

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Would it be risky to prune and wire a boxwood before it has started growing in the Spring? It seems most of the advice I've read is that one should wait until new growth starts, but I'm not sure I know the horticultural reasons behind this advice. What could go wrong by starting earlier?
 

clevetromba

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P A T I E N C E
Yes, but why? I realize I sound a lot like my 6 year old son by asking that. :rolleyes: But I really do want to understand the reasoning. My dilemma is that I want to enter the "Big Box Challenge" and there is a perfect tree on sale at a local nursery, and I have a week of vacation next week in which I could really work on something.
 

jk_lewis

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Well, I'm not familiar with the BBC rules, but you will be courting danger if you chop up a dormant boxwood and work on the roots, too. Boxwoods are tough, but there ARE limits. It seems the pinnacle of hubris to chop up a tree to suit your own whim.
 

johng

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I just worked on about 15 3 gallons boxwoods this winter...pruned, wired, and chopped the roots on all...all are growing beautifully. The only time I am might not root prune a boxwood is when the new foliage has yet to harden off...otherwise I have found them to be pretty indestructible...especially those species purchased for landscaping.

Here are a couple after wiring and pruning but before root pruning..
IMG_1570.JPG
 

fh05

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Thanks John. I purchased a box wood in 2-3 g container and did initial pruning last week. Have not had chance to wire yet. You probably removed 50-60% foliage on these trees, I think on my tree I removed more like 90%. Is it still ok to work on roots. I took pics, will post pics eventually, sorry.
 

fh05

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Actually just when I posted the earlier post I remembered watching Arthur Joura's youtube video
. I just checked it out, he trimmed about 95% or more of foliage and does root work at same time. Thanks.
 

johng

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With boxwoods, but not the case with all species, it is fine to drastically prune the foliage and roots at the same time...be careful to provide good after care (protect from extreme temps and wind) and you will be fine.

You mentioned you pruned yours already....boxwood is one of those species that I have found it is important to leave some foliage on every branch...otherwise you risk losing the branch. Some folks report otherwise but that has not been my experience.
 

clevetromba

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Well, I'm not familiar with the BBC rules, but you will be courting danger if you chop up a dormant boxwood and work on the roots, too. Boxwoods are tough, but there ARE limits. It seems the pinnacle of hubris to chop up a tree to suit your own whim.
Actually, the BBC specifies the tree must remain in its original pot, so I won't be pruning the roots at all. I would only be pruning and wiring the branches. And believe me, I am not one to chop something up to suit my whims. I am merely asking questions.

I just worked on about 15 3 gallons boxwoods this winter...pruned, wired, and chopped the roots on all...all are growing beautifully. The only time I am might not root prune a boxwood is when the new foliage has yet to harden off...otherwise I have found them to be pretty indestructible...especially those species purchased for landscaping.

John,
You are in South Carolina, so I'm not sure your experience will transfer to my zone, but I wonder how quickly a boxwood (green velvet) will break dormancy once the weather warms up. It has been in the high 20's - low 30's at night here
 

clevetromba

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Here are a couple after wiring and pruning but before root pruning..
IMG_1570.JPG
[/QUOTE]
These look great John, I am surprised to see you used aluminum wire. All the advice I have read so far has said you need to use copper wire for the extra holding power since boxwood branches are so tough to bend.
 

fh05

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With boxwoods, but not the case with all species, it is fine to drastically prune the foliage and roots at the same time...be careful to provide good after care (protect from extreme temps and wind) and you will be fine.

You mentioned you pruned yours already....boxwood is one of those species that I have found it is important to leave some foliage on every branch...otherwise you risk losing the branch. Some folks report otherwise but that has not been my experience.

Exactly. I made sure I left some foliage at the tips just like you and others have recommended, why take chances when you can avoid. Thanks
 

clevetromba

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I found the following advice from a horticulturist in the DC area (http://www.thepruningschool.com/Articles/boxwoodPruning.htm) on pruning boxwoods:

"When should I prune my boxwood? Good question. I have pruned them during all seasons, even during their growth period in spring, but if I were to choose, I would pick the dormant season as the best time to prune, after the threat of sub-zero weather has passed...Try to complete your pruning before bud break..."

Of course this advice relates to shrubs in the landscape, and not pruning for the purposes of styling or developing bonsai, but I think it can still relate to the degree that bonsai are outdoor plants subjected to the effects of weather.

Which points back to my original question on timing of pruning. If I bring the boxwood indoors, and keep it there until after the threat of frost is over, would it not be safe to prune earlier in the year (ie, early April in a zone 6 area) than would normally be safe (early to mid May).
 

sorce

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I hacked a Xmas tree box in 2013. Around New Year. It came through!

Cleve, after you design the top, you ought work the roots a bit this year and get it into a more suitable container (colander) post contest.

I'd practice wiring some of the growth you intend to remove. Bend em hard, snap em, so you know the limits.

Remember to keep wire on the outside of your bends to support the area that wants to break. I reckon with box this is very important!

Though all my money is on ColinFraser, I wish you good skill !

Sorce
 

sorce

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Oh, ad the PP maple contest is for patience.

The BSC is the anti patience!

This is where we get to unleash our lack of patience !

Sorce
 

clevetromba

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I hacked a Xmas tree box in 2013. Around New Year. It came through!

Cleve, after you design the top, you ought work the roots a bit this year and get it into a more suitable container (colander) post contest.

I'd practice wiring some of the growth you intend to remove. Bend em hard, snap em, so you know the limits.

Remember to keep wire on the outside of your bends to support the area that wants to break. I reckon with box this is very important!

Though all my money is on ColinFraser, I wish you good skill !

Sorce
Sorce,
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it! That's a great idea to practice on disposable branches. I've read a lot about using perforated pots lately. Where does one find a colander big enough to plant in? And under what circumstances do you and don't you use this type of pot?
 

sorce

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This'll be my first year in Holy containers.

I have a few pond baskets from the depot that I like.

I don't think there's a better pot for training.

Minimum daily watering though.
With proper soil.

Sorce
 

Cypress187

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I did some work on my boxwood, and it wasn't budding or maybe it was even still in wintersleep.
 
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