Bringing down the house(‘s water ph level)

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Mame
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So after watching Ryan’s video on water I look up the most recent water test results for our city water and learned that the ph is 8.5.

Does anyone have experience mitigating high ph levels in their water source/have any suggestions on how to get my soils under 7?
 

MrWunderful

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My water is very hard as well. I have been adding sulfur to the soil for stewartia, pines and pomegranate and I may try using “acidic loving plant” fertilizer for all my trees (read about it somewhere on here).

I also might attempt to harvest fog at some point, because rain water is more neutral and to cut down on my bill.
 

hemmy

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So after watching Ryan’s video on water I look up the most recent water test results for our city water and learned that the ph is 8.5.

Does anyone have experience mitigating high ph levels in their water source/have any suggestions on how to get my soils under 7?
Ok, seriously though. I pulled your water report (for the City). I was surprised they get their water from wells and not the lake, but I guess the wells are closer. That is a high pH, but pH is only the symptom not the cause. You need to to look at Alkalinity, Hardness, Calcium and Magnesium, among other attributes. Your Alkalinity (45ppm), Ca (14ppm), Mg (12ppm), and Hardness (83ppm) are all within acceptable ranges for nursery and even greenhouse production. Here’s a good starter guideline for those values (University of Arkansas):
https://www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-6061.pdf

So with acceptable Alkalinity, it means that your 8.5 pH water will not have a strong impact on shifting the pH of your growing media. It has a low buffering capacity and you would not have to add much acid to lower the pH. In fact, your calcium is so low (also only a 1:1 with magnesium) that you may want experiment with ADDING calcium in the form of granular gypsum.

So why is the pH high? Hard to say, but you have elevated TDS, Chloride, Sodium, and Specific Conductance which all point to high concentrations of salts. This will mean that when you water it should be thorough enough to leach out the bottom sufficiently (which is standard bonsai practice anyway). You will also get salt buildup when your media dries out.

As for pH, you may be able to counteract it with an acid media or the addition of granular sulfur as previously suggested. I think I would go that route before getting into injecting various acids into the irrigation water. You could also ask around the nurseries to see what they do, I bet they don’t even treat their water. Of course, you’ll be keeping trees in pots quite a bit longer.

You get decent rain, so some rain tanks collecting your roof runoff can also be a good option for the dry times of the year.

Lastly, if you spray pesticides and fungicides you should check the label to see how they interact with high pH and alkalinity. It may benefit you to use distilled water when you spray.
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
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Down here we can buy 400 to 50.000 gallon tanks,
Link to the roof.
After a dry spell of 6 months, folk at the beach, let the
rains wash the roof for a week.
Then collect.

I would be afraid to drink water that white spots vegetation.

You can calculate how much water you need.
Good Day
Anthony

* You can also look into - Evaporation technology.
Simplest - sun heats in a container and the evaporation
is collected.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Make ice cubes, put them in coca cola.
Drink one half, give the other to your plants on a monthly basis.

Or use rainwater, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or nitric acid. All tested and working well, at least, when the pH is measured and volumes are adjusted for that.
 

pback

Mame
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Ok, seriously though. I pulled your water report (for the City). I was surprised they get their water from wells and not the lake, but I guess the wells are closer. That is a high pH, but pH is only the symptom not the cause. You need to to look at Alkalinity, Hardness, Calcium and Magnesium, among other attributes. Your Alkalinity (45ppm), Ca (14ppm), Mg (12ppm), and Hardness (83ppm) are all within acceptable ranges for nursery and even greenhouse production. Here’s a good starter guideline for those values (University of Arkansas):
https://www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-6061.pdf

So with acceptable Alkalinity, it means that your 8.5 pH water will not have a strong impact on shifting the pH of your growing media. It has a low buffering capacity and you would not have to add much acid to lower the pH. In fact, your calcium is so low (also only a 1:1 with magnesium) that you may want experiment with ADDING calcium in the form of granular gypsum.

So why is the pH high? Hard to say, but you have elevated TDS, Chloride, Sodium, and Specific Conductance which all point to high concentrations of salts. This will mean that when you water it should be thorough enough to leach out the bottom sufficiently (which is standard bonsai practice anyway). You will also get salt buildup when your media dries out.

As for pH, you may be able to counteract it with an acid media or the addition of granular sulfur as previously suggested. I think I would go that route before getting into injecting various acids into the irrigation water. You could also ask around the nurseries to see what they do, I bet they don’t even treat their water. Of course, you’ll be keeping trees in pots quite a bit longer.

You get decent rain, so some rain tanks collecting your roof runoff can also be a good option for the dry times of the year.

Lastly, if you spray pesticides and fungicides you should check the label to see how they interact with high pH and alkalinity. It may benefit you to use distilled water when you spray.
Thanks so much for that detailed reply. I’ll try not to hold your taste in Kansas teams against you :p
 

John P.

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I just started adding a teaspoon or two of apple cider vinegar per gallon for my maples. Several of them have chlorotic leaves. I’m in Laguna Beach, CA, and our tap water is liquid rock.
 
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MrWunderful

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Make ice cubes, put them in coca cola.
Drink one half, give the other to your plants on a monthly basis.

Or use rainwater, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or nitric acid. All tested and working well, at least, when the pH is measured and volumes are adjusted for that.
Is it the acid in the soda that helps?
 
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