Bristlecone Pine Seedlings

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Update: The pinus aristata seedlings did not fare well. My best guess is the lower tap root started to dry out as it was sticking out below the seed tray I had them planted in. As soon as I noticed their decline I mixed up a new soil mix to get them into and transplanted them. Here they are today, I think I may have saved a few but they are stuck in the current state.
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The 4 blue spruce seedlings are doing great

1552749061180.png

Repotted one couple weeks back in a good inorganic soil mix and it took off. Two nights ago I repotted the other 3, they were all crowded in one small pot and as you can tell they were yellowish and not as vigorous as the largest one.

Supposed to be 60 next weekend, lets go spring!!!
 

0soyoung

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My best guess is the lower tap root started to dry out as it was sticking out below the seed tray I had them planted in.
I'm skeptical. but maybe.

This was, in effect, an air pruning pot. When the tip of the tap root desiccated, new roots should have branched higher up, where it was moist. Further, your seedlings are close to the state at which JPB seedlings are cut and completely re-rooted to eliminate the tap root. Maybe aristada is a 'uniquely' unable to cope with this.

Anyway, good effort. High rates of seedling mortality are not unusual.
 

Kissaki

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If those seedlings survive plant them in the garden. Wait 25 years and you may have bonsai material. Do some root work along the way. ;)
 

M. Frary

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Bristlecone in a bonsai pot will do well in Michigan but only if you protect them in winter.
So I found out.
You would think it would be a walk in the park for one being where they usually live.
 

Kissaki

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Protect them in what way?

I used a garage to overwinter in bonsai pots better for the tree and the pot. We are talking about 20-30+ year old P. aristata.
 

Lorax7

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I used a garage to overwinter in bonsai pots better for the tree and the pot. We are talking about 20-30+ year old P. aristata.
What is the vulnerability that you’re trying to protect? Sensitive roots? Foliage can’t handle a deep freeze? Foliage sensitive to winter winds?
 

wireme

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I think you are talking about p. longaeva, @Leo in N E Illinois. There are p. aristada that are at least 20-year old trees in my neighborhood, which, though cool, is very near sea-level and high humidity. I've also seen older at a grower 15 miles away from me, but still very near sea-level and in humidity.

There is also p. balfouriana that is called 'bristlecone'.

Do we know what particular species @Iowa newbie has?


We had about 6 aristada here, started from seed and planted in the ground in 1990. One died at about six years old when I dug it and tried to grow it in a pot. The others did very well until blister rust took out a couple around five years ago. The remainders mostly died From the last two years of drought summers (non irrigated location). There is one left alive now.
 

Kissaki

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What is the vulnerability that you’re trying to protect? Sensitive roots? Foliage can’t handle a deep freeze? Foliage sensitive to winter winds?

Considering the fact that I am in basically the same zone as you are: yes, roots, pots and foliage in winter. No one in zone 5b would be foolish enough to leave bonsai out in winter unless it is Eastern White Cedar. >Then you are still taking a chance. It's cold frame, bury the pots or a bonsai "garage/shelter". This thread is about seedlings and maybe best to bring this to the other Bristlecone thread.
 

Kissaki

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We had about 6 aristada here, started from seed and planted in the ground in 1990. One died at about six years old when I dug it and tried to grow it in a pot. The others did very well until blister rust took out a couple around five years ago. The remainders mostly died From the last two years of drought summers (non irrigated location). There is one left alive now.

I'll tell you what I did 30 years ago. I bought the largest aristata's I could find. I had a number of terra cotta cylinder pots that were larger in diameter by about 3" than the plastic nursery pots.
Immediately took the trees out of the nursery pots and got rid of some of the crappy soil around the root ball sides and bottom. Put a layer of bonsai soil at the bottom and sides.
They were probably in those terra cotta pots for about 3 years before I "re-potted" them in bonsai pots. Always these nursery trees have garbage soil.
I only ever replaced about 1/3 of soil at a repot.
Once these trees are in a pot it will take many years to put on any sort of trunk growth. If you you are impatient and remove foliage to make it "bonsai like" trunk growth" is even slower.
That's why bristlecone seedlings or a nursery tree with at least a 1" trunk diameter is a waste of time in a pot. Plant them in the ground or find larger trees.
The only trouble I ever had was Eastern Sawfly larvae in spring but insecticidal soap killed them as long as you caught them in time.
 
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wireme

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I'll tell you what I did 30 years ago. I bought the largest aristata's I could find. I had a number of terra cotta cylinder pots that were larger in diameter by about 3" than the plastic nursery pots.
Immediately took the trees out of the nursery pots and got rid of some of the crappy soil around the root ball sides and bottom. Put a layer of bonsai soil at the bottom and sides.
They were probably in those terra cotta pots for about 3 years before I "re-potted" them in bonsai pots. Always these nursery trees have garbage soil.
I only ever replaced about 1/3 of soil at a repot.
Once these trees are in a pot it will take many years to put on any sort of trunk growth. If you you are impatient and remove foliage to make it "bonsai like" trunk growth" is even slower.
That's why bristlecone seedlings or a nursery tree with at least a 1" trunk diameter is a waste of time in a pot. Plant them in the ground or find larger trees.
The only trouble I ever had was Eastern Sawfly larvae in spring but insecticidal soap killed them as long as you caught them in time.

Thanks for the tips. Sounds great, never ever seen one at a nursery or anywhere for sale though...if I ever do, I’ll go for it.

Anyways, you’re saying that you have some that you’ve been working on for 30 years? Cool.
 

Lorax7

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Considering the fact that I am in basically the same zone as you are: yes, roots, pots and foliage in winter. No one in zone 5b would be foolish enough to leave bonsai out in winter unless it is Eastern White Cedar. >Then you are still taking a chance. It's cold frame, bury the pots or a bonsai "garage/shelter". This thread is about seedlings and maybe best to bring this to the other Bristlecone thread.
Actually, I leave all my bonsai out in winter. I put mulch around the pots and a layer on the surface of the soil, make a very minimal wind break around them with one row of straw bales, and shovel some snow on top of the trees when we get the first snowfall of more than a few inches. That’s all I do. This has worked pretty well for me so far.

As far as bristlecones go, I’m specifically interested in the seedlings. I just planted some seeds I ordered from Jonsteen’s. So, that’s why I asked about the details of overwintering them.
 

robert gardner

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I have a large Bristlecone forest og five Bristlecones pines. They have been growing for about seven years now and every spring I am greeted with many candles of new growth
They have all grown contorted directions.. If I could find out how to get a picture on this site I would like to send them.
 

0soyoung

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If I could find out how to get a picture on this site I would like to send them.
Try the 'Insert Image' icon on the dialog menu (when you are entering your post) or click the 'Attach files' button to the left of 'Post reply'. Of course, you will need to make a new post.
 

rollwithak

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Compared to my own bristlecone pines, yours look pretty stretchy. This means there's not enough light blasting them. The same goes for the spruce.
I keep my bristlecones outdoors, protected from the rain but not the frost and wind. They're about the most 'outdoor' species of pine I know. Because they live at such high altitudes, they get a few 100%'s more light than trees at sea level.

What I'm trying to sugarcoat is that this might not be the best way of growing bristlecones and/or spruce. I'm pretty sure it isn't. But I also love it when people prove me wrong!
So lower those lights or raise the pots (equals more blasting with light!), get those internodes short (by blasting them with light), go easy on the watering and let us know how it turned out. But in all honesty, I'd advise you to try again coming spring.
Do you have any updates on you Bristlecones??? I have 3 that sprouted out of what should have been 50 seeds. But one of them is failing already and the other two I’m worried for. I have them outside. You know if there is any special treatment for these little guys at this young age? They all looked so strong and healthy initially. They’re about 1 month old but aren’t showing signs of getting first set of leaves.
 

robert gardner

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their home range
I am myself I have several bristlecone plane bonsai trees they are eight or nine years old in living in a forest type pot with no signs of slowing down in their growth take your seedlings and put them outside in the sunlight that’s where they were made that’s where they should stay mine have been been covered in 14 inches of snow a couple winters ago did not bother them at all Do not fertilize them until they’re at least four years old
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Do you have any updates on you Bristlecones??? I have 3 that sprouted out of what should have been 50 seeds. But one of them is failing already and the other two I’m worried for. I have them outside. You know if there is any special treatment for these little guys at this young age? They all looked so strong and healthy initially. They’re about 1 month old but aren’t showing signs of getting first set of leaves.
I have three left, out of the five that germinated from a batch of 10.
Birds knocked both pots over so I repotted them in summer.
Full sun and keeping them on the dry side, that's about the only thing I do.
Mine are two or three years old now, they didn't do much in the first year and squeezed out some juvenile foliage. This year they produced their first adult needles. They're still no taller than my pinky finger.
They can be slow, that's for sure.
 
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