Building a Trunk - Bending vs. Cutting

dbonsaiw

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I was contemplating next steps on a smaller sized bonsai and debating when to prune back the new leader to start forming the next section of trunk. As I starred at the tree I realized that the internodes of the current leader were such that I could just wire the leader into a zig zag and basically form much of the remaining trunk now, with sacrifice branches for taper to follow. I have buds on the outside of the bends and the length of each section of trunk gets progressively smaller. Is this a sound way of developing the tree? How would the final tree differ if I used a cut and grow method instead?
 

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Eckhoffw

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I was contemplating next steps on a smaller sized bonsai and debating when to prune back the new leader to start forming the next section of trunk. As I starred at the tree I realized that the internodes of the current leader were such that I could just wire the leader into a zig zag and basically form much of the remaining trunk now, with sacrifice branches for taper to follow. I have buds on the outside of the bends and the length of each section of trunk gets progressively smaller. Is this a sound way of developing the tree? How would the final tree differ if I used a cut and grow method instead?
My only thoughts is that some species like to grow like a taperless tube. Sections higher up the tree may not stay smaller even with balancing branching and energy.
At that point you have to chop back to renew taper.
 

Shibui

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2 things against wiring only for leaders:
Wiring can make bends but does nothing for taper. The new trunk will be bendy but same thickness right through, at least for a start.
Wired bends seem to be monotonous curves and not really natural. Chops produce random bends with random angles and, hopefully, random distance between bends which ends up much more natural.
Remember that zigzag is only bends in 2D. Bonsai also need depth so remember to bend back and forth as well as side to side.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Wire also weakens the branch, so it is possible another bud will pop and compete. If you are building a trunk in a d-tree, the best way to go is grow and chop. Build taper and movement by selective chopping to direct the next section of growth. When you have a bud where you want it, let it run since that growth helps heal scars faster. I would carefully cut away the wire.

Another thought is to change the planting angle slightly next time so the trunk doesn’t star arrow-straight from the soil level and then suddenly become interesting at the first chop site.
 

dbonsaiw

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Wire also weakens the branch, so it is possible another bud will pop and compete. If you are building a trunk in a d-tree, the best way to go is grow and chop. Build taper and movement by selective chopping to direct the next section of growth. When you have a bud where you want it, let it run since that growth helps heal scars faster. I would carefully cut away the wire.

Another thought is to change the planting angle slightly next time so the trunk doesn’t star arrow-straight from the soil level and then suddenly become interesting at the first chop site.
Much appreciated. Wire has been successfully removed. Agreed on the planting angle and I'll get at that at next repot.
 
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