Buxus Harlandii

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Hi all,

Im new to the Buxus type of tree, coming from elms but thought i would try something new.

Here is the little tree i bought, Any Tips, Ideas on styling etc im open for your input :)

Thank you
 

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Shibui

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Buxus harlandii seems to be very tough. Juts treat it like your elms and it should grow well. I haven't tried pruning back to bare wood but when pruned hard leaving some green they bud all over the trunk.
The corky bark is a real feature of this species. Small leaves really suits shohin sized bonsai and the trunk thickens up with good taper an basal flare.
I've only root pruned in spring but there has been no problem with removing plenty of roots. Easy to strike as cuttings too.

Hard to give you much advice for styling this one when I can only see one side of the tree. What does it look like from the other side? Can that rear branch be used as a first branch? Otherwise use that lower branch as a sacrifice to thicken the lower trunk a bit more while developing the tree from the upper branches.
 

sorce

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If you plan on using the first branch, I'd clear what's around it.

Seems a tough decision, since that one branch wants to reach out to that root like a dancer reaching out to her toe. (Yeah her cuz who wants to picture a dude in a leotard?)

That could be a pretty sensual design, but it forces you into the human perspective and loses a lot of "tree".

I'd cut the flowers off cuz they are uglier later than they are pretty now.

Sorce
 

Rid

Shohin
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Buxus harlandii seems to be very tough. Juts treat it like your elms and it should grow well. I haven't tried pruning back to bare wood but when pruned hard leaving some green they bud all over the trunk.
The corky bark is a real feature of this species. Small leaves really suits shohin sized bonsai and the trunk thickens up with good taper an basal flare.
I've only root pruned in spring but there has been no problem with removing plenty of roots. Easy to strike as cuttings too.

Hard to give you much advice for styling this one when I can only see one side of the tree. What does it look like from the other side? Can that rear branch be used as a first branch? Otherwise use that lower branch as a sacrifice to thicken the lower trunk a bit more while developing the tree from the upper branches.
When do you prune your Harlandii. I am not getting the vigorous backbudding on mine.
Thanks
Ridley
 
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If you plan on using the first branch, I'd clear what's around it.

Seems a tough decision, since that one branch wants to reach out to that root like a dancer reaching out to her toe. (Yeah her cuz who wants to picture a dude in a leotard?)

That could be a pretty sensual design, but it forces you into the human perspective and loses a lot of "tree".

I'd cut the flowers off cuz they are uglier later than they are pretty now.

Sorce

First branch round the back ? Clear around it ? :)
 

sorce

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First branch round the back ? Clear around it ? :)

Big decision.

For me this tree has 2 potentials.

The one with that first branch and the one without.

At first I was going ho clear around it and keep it for use, since many trees with long tapered trunks then all the foliage from one place looks kinda stupid.

A branch like that can add a lot of character.

But I am liking this idea.
Capture+_2020-03-18-10-12-16.png

Where bringing that red branch down becomes significant in playing with that root, giving it purpose.

But it seems a lot would have to be cut out of the top, and I can't see if this is physically possible.

What is SURE for me.
This decision must be made, as each branch is conflicting with the other in each design, and of they are both left, it's too congested for them to both live well enough to decide later.

Especially after some rampant spring growth.

Also. My idea of not "allow boxwood it's spring growth", but rather, allowing the boxwood to grow where I want it to, works.

You only need to allow it it's spring growth after collection, a heavy Repot, when sick...

But a healthy boxwood needs pre spring direction.

Any tree for that matter.

Sorce
 
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@sorce you go
 

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Shibui

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I like the second of those pics. Maybe just rotate clockwise slightly to get the first branch a fraction more to the left. Good width at the base, nice placement for a low first branch and a much better bend towards the apex. Just need to wire and place the appropriate branches and remove any excess. It is a predictable and safe design but will look attractive any time.

When do you prune your Harlandii. I am not getting the vigorous backbudding on mine.
I've just recently (late summer) cut back one of mine and now have new shoots breaking all over. To get buds on bare wood you may need to prune a bit more severely. Most species would rather make buds from the base of leaves if possible. Buds on bare wood is a last resort for most so they need to be coerced.
My larger harlandii is in development phase. It is in a large pot and I've been feeding heavily. I have spent more time removing unwanted shoots from the trunk of mine than pruning to get budding. Younger cuttings are showing similar attributes. Way more buds than any of the other species I have here. Not sure what conditions you have your harlandii in but I assume it will be related to conditions rather than the species.
 
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@Shibui thanks for the response, Ill look at your ideas when im with the tree. As for conditions mine are outside in UK 99% of the time and in greenhouse on potential frost nights.
 

sorce

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@Shibui thanks for the response

Yeah...

I think deleting the right branches will be more of a mind eff than anything else, since there are so many in relatively same useful places.

Most are the same size so best initial direction and closest buds to the trunk should be a guide.

Sorce
 

Rid

Shohin
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I like the second of those pics. Maybe just rotate clockwise slightly to get the first branch a fraction more to the left. Good width at the base, nice placement for a low first branch and a much better bend towards the apex. Just need to wire and place the appropriate branches and remove any excess. It is a predictable and safe design but will look attractive any time.


I've just recently (late summer) cut back one of mine and now have new shoots breaking all over. To get buds on bare wood you may need to prune a bit more severely. Most species would rather make buds from the base of leaves if possible. Buds on bare wood is a last resort for most so they need to be coerced.
My larger harlandii is in development phase. It is in a large pot and I've been feeding heavily. I have spent more time removing unwanted shoots from the trunk of mine than pruning to get budding. Younger cuttings are showing similar attributes. Way more buds than any of the other species I have here. Not sure what conditions you have your harlandii in but I assume it will be related to conditions rather than the species.
Are yours in full sun?
 
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@sorce These are my main thick structure.
 

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Seems those left 2 are the only conflicting...
And your branching should be pretty easy to chose off of those.

@sorce

So just remove what I don't want and cut back to a couple leaves on one I want ?
 

sorce

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So just remove what I don't want and cut back to a couple leaves on one I want ?

It's more about what the tree wants and doesn't want!

I would find two small branches to cut back to, as there are there.
Capture+_2020-03-19-13-37-03.png

But that branch shouldn't be kept if you're keeping that branch directly left along the yellow line. Since they are on the same plane.

Pay attention to the pattern of buds, top and bottom, side to side, and cut back to a bid in the direction you want the branch to continue.


Sorce
 
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Thanks @sorce , I'll look at it tomorrow and start chopping Haha new to buxus so no idea haha
 

Shibui

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Are yours in full sun?
I was going to say full sun but there is shade for a while in the morning and later in the afternoon. Others, in small pots, are under 30%shade cloth and also doing well. Full sun in summer is very harsh in this area. Very few plants can take full summer sun here. Even pines do a little better with some shade.
 
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