Can I leave this 1 year old maple seedling outdoors for the winter?

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
This came from a sprouted seed under some kind of a Japanese maple tree in the neighborhood that's only 8-10 feet tall. I don't know what kind it is, and there are other maple trees around it, so this may be a hybrid?
I put the tiny seedling in a pot in the Spring, and it now looks like this, six months later. The pot is an 8" pot (rim diameter).
I've kept it on the deck all summer. Do you think it's strong enough to remain in this pot outdoors in zone 7b NC weather?
I would appreciate any pointers, as this is my first seedling experience!
Thanks!

IMG_3224.jpg
 

BrightsideB

Omono
Messages
1,246
Reaction score
1,738
Location
Canton, Georgia
USDA Zone
7a
Should be fine left out. You can also grow it in the ground for a while and just dig it up one year in spring after last frost. It will grow larger quicker if you are trying a bonsai from seed it will take a while.
 

Lorax7

Omono
Messages
1,445
Reaction score
2,149
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6a
Yes, it should be fine outside. Set the pot on the ground adjacent to the north side of a structure (house, garage, fence) and put some mulch around the pot to insulate the roots. Wait until after first frost to do this. If you do it too early, pests may be attracted to it as a winter food source.
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,053
Reaction score
27,392
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
The tree is plenty strong to stay outside over winter, that is not the issue. Be carefull with the pot though. Depending on how much rain you get, this pot can become a bucket of wet stench, which the roots will not like.
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
Should be fine left out. You can also grow it in the ground for a while and just dig it up one year in spring after last frost. It will grow larger quicker if you are trying a bonsai from seed it will take a while.
Thanks! I don’t have a yard, containers are all I have. If I want to try a bonsai from this seedling, how long should I wait and what are my next few steps? My only bonsai experience is maintenance: keeping a ficus bonsai alive for 15 years.
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
Yes, it should be fine outside. Set the pot on the ground adjacent to the north side of a structure (house, garage, fence) and put some mulch around the pot to insulate the roots. Wait until after first frost to do this. If you do it too early, pests may be attracted to it as a winter food source.
Adjacent to the north side of a structure - does this offer wind protection? If I remember correctly from previous years, that North side doesn’t get any direct sun. But the south side offers direct sun. Should I try to give the seedling some direct sun in the winter?
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
The tree is plenty strong to stay outside over winter, that is not the issue. Be carefull with the pot though. Depending on how much rain you get, this pot can become a bucket of wet stench, which the roots will not like.
Thanks for pointing that out! Yes, I have to take the bottom of the pot out so it drains.
 

Lorax7

Omono
Messages
1,445
Reaction score
2,149
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6a
Adjacent to the north side of a structure - does this offer wind protection? If I remember correctly from previous years, that North side doesn’t get any direct sun. But the south side offers direct sun. Should I try to give the seedling some direct sun in the winter?
The reason to put it on the north side of a structure is to avoid direct sunlight so that the tree doesn’t experience large temperature swings. It’s to prevent the tree from waking up prematurely in the spring and then getting damaged by frost.
 

BrightsideB

Omono
Messages
1,246
Reaction score
1,738
Location
Canton, Georgia
USDA Zone
7a
Thanks! I don’t have a yard, containers are all I have. If I want to try a bonsai from this seedling, how long should I wait and what are my next few steps? My only bonsai experience is maintenance: keeping a ficus bonsai alive for 15 years.
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. Like how large. When we grow from seed usually we let the tree just do it’s thing gaining vigor and health for at least 5 years. With maple you can then chop the trunk and start growing your bonsai from the new shoots since you then now have some girth at the nebari. But experienced people have many methods that is just one more basic method but still used a lot of the time from what I see. There are many outlets to learn. But bonsai empire and mirai are really interesting. They also have classes you can pay for but also have a lot of free content to get started and understand basics.
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
The reason to put it on the north side of a structure is to avoid direct sunlight so that the tree doesn’t experience large temperature swings. It’s to prevent the tree from waking up prematurely in the spring and then getting damaged by frost.
Oh, I'm glad you explained about putting it on the north side. Otherwise, I would be tempted to give it direct sun in the winter. I assume the seedling will drop all its leaves in the winter and I shouldn't think it's dead?
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. Like how large. When we grow from seed usually we let the tree just do it’s thing gaining vigor and health for at least 5 years. With maple you can then chop the trunk and start growing your bonsai from the new shoots since you then now have some girth at the nebari. But experienced people have many methods that is just one more basic method but still used a lot of the time from what I see. There are many outlets to learn. But bonsai empire and mirai are really interesting. They also have classes you can pay for but also have a lot of free content to get started and understand basics.
Thanks for the references - I assume bonsai empire and mirai are websites? I will google them.
I don't have a lot of space, so I'm envisioning the maple bonsai no more than 6" tall measuring from the soil, if that's possible? Is it generally more challenging to achieve a large or small bonsai?
 

Lorax7

Omono
Messages
1,445
Reaction score
2,149
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6a
Oh, I'm glad you explained about putting it on the north side. Otherwise, I would be tempted to give it direct sun in the winter. I assume the seedling will drop all its leaves in the winter and I shouldn't think it's dead?
Yep, deciduous tree, so it’s going to drop its leaves and that’s totally normal.
 

dbonsaiw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,012
Reaction score
2,505
Location
New York
USDA Zone
7b
Any use of putting a large plastic container over the plant at least at night to protect it from at least some of the exposure? I've been doing this at night with a small tree I recently planted on a tile in the hopes of pushing off sub-40 degree weather for a bit. Is this a waste of time?
 

panda

Seedling
Messages
18
Reaction score
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
USDA Zone
7b
Year three update: Japanese maple from seedling, up potted to let it grow. I am pretty happy with the Y shaped trunk.

I’d like to cut it down to about 6” from the soil? What is a good time of year to do that?

Should I let it grow out a few more years before cutting it down?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5041.jpeg
    IMG_5041.jpeg
    293 KB · Views: 28

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,659
Reaction score
15,464
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
Any time after the leaves have opened and hardened through to late summer and again just after leaf drop is OK for chopping Japanese maple. If pruned in spring they tend to bleed a bit unless also root pruned at the same time.

Whether to let it grow or cut is a hotly debated concept. Some like to grow trunks to desired thickness then make a single large chop. Others, me included, find it better to use regular grow and chop cycles. This means earlier chops have healed, the trunk has better bends and better taper. It's also much quicker to start making the final trunk leader and branching when the trunk already has some taper.
I'll leave it up to you to decide which camp to follow.
 
Top Bottom