Can someone ID the JBP in this photo library?

Adair M

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That's Jonas Dupuich. I may (probably) mis-spelled his last name.

Those pictures where taken in Boon's workshops. He was one of Boon's first Intensive students.

He publishes the Bonsai Tonight blog. It's excellent.

Jonas grows a lot of JBP from seed.
 
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FrankP999

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The top branches you mentioned are probably sacrifice branches. Sacrificial branches are grown to fatten up a trunk. Down the road, they are cut off.
 

jeanluc83

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Bonsai tonight is one of the best resources out there on the development of JBP. He works with other trees as well but mostly JBP. It was started about 5 years ago. You can really see how the trees are progressing. He also makes frequent trips to Japan.
 

Adair M

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I have heard the story about how Jonas named his blog:

Boon and several of his students were looking at issues of Bonsai Today, and were talking about maybe creating a blog sometime in the future. But what should it be called?

So someone suggested "Bonsai Tonight", since it was evening, and they were looking at Bonsai Today magazines. So, Jonas stopped what he was doing and registered the name. A couple years later, he started his blog.
 

QuintinBonsai

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The top branches you mentioned are probably sacrifice branches. Sacrificial branches are grown to fatten up a trunk. Down the road, they are cut off.
That's what I thought at first, but that trunk looks fat enough to me. I just found out in his blog that those are escape branches to allow sap flow to grafted branches. That is very interesting.
 

Adair M

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And he is probably cutting them off slowly.

Here's the technique:

At the crotch of a sacrifice you want to remove, rather than cut it all off at once, cut a V into the top of the crotch. About half way thru. Backfill with cut paste.

Next year, cut another halfway thru. Back fill with cut paste.

The third year, remove the sacrifice branch.

Why go to all this trouble?

Well, it aids to start the trunk to heal.

Also, it prevents the trunk below the sacrifice branch from dying. Sometimes, when you remove a branch, that portion of the trunk directly below the branch will die off. Doing it slowly allows the trunk to establish an alternate sap line.

I learned the technique at Boon's, and since Jonas is also a Boon student, it's highly likely he's doing it too!

Edited to add:

When you do this, it's time to restrict the growth on the sacrifice branch by needle pulling, decandling, and candle breaking in the spring. Why? If the sacrifice branches are too strong, the tree will direct it's energy towards healing the sacrifice branch, and not the trunk. We want the trunk to be the focus of the healing, not the sacrifice branch.

It also helps to start a new "escape branch" up higher on the trunk than the sacrifice branch being removed. This also helps heal, and redirect the energy.
 
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Dav4

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And he is probably cutting them off slowly.

Here's the technique:

At the crotch of a sacrifice you want to remove, rather than cut it all off at once, cut a V into the top of the crotch. About half way thru. Backfill with cut paste.

Next year, cut another halfway thru. Back fill with cut paste.

The third year, remove the sacrifice branch.

Why go to all this trouble?

Well, it aids to start the trunk to heal.

Also, it prevents the trunk below the sacrifice branch from dying. Sometimes, when you remove a branch, that portion of the trunk directly below the branch will die off. Doing it slowly allows the trunk to establish an alternate sap line.

I learned the technique at Boon's, and since Jonas is also a Boon student, it's highly likely he's doing it too!

Thanks for reminding me of this process, Adair. I've never actually used it but I've seen the results post chop...it really accelerates healing.
 

Adair M

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Dave,

Boon did it to my big JBP at the workshop at the ABS. You were there! How could you forget?

LOL!!! Just kidding! I forget most everything until I've done it a dozen times!

By the way, I'm thinking my sacrifice branch will be coming off soon.

The first year, I did not slow down the sacrifice branch enough! Most of the healing went to the sacrifice branch. This year, I've let a sacrifice apex branch run, and it has really helped to heal on the trunk. And I broke candles, cut back on side shoots, and decandled the sacrifice. Really helped. Lesson learned! The tree is still fighting me on this... that sacrifice where I decandled it has not only produced adventitious summer buds, it has backbudded, and needle budded like crazy!

I have also put in an approach graft just under the sacrifice branch that will keep the sap line going. I guess once I've severed the stock part off, and I know it's taken, that's when I'll remove the sacrifice.
 

QuintinBonsai

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How did he achieve such wide taper at the base of the trunk? It's almost similar to fat cone shape.

Has anyone ever tried fusing multiple pine whips together to create a larger trunk? I've seen this being done with tridents, but could it work with pines?
 

Adair M

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I'm pretty sure that tree was grown in the ground for 20 years before it was dug up, and Jonas bought it. There are a couple of nurseries in California who do that.

I have 4 JBP similar to that.

It is difficult to get one that has great taper between the nebari and the first trunk. When you do, it's something special.

Here's mine before I starting working on it:
 

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Adair M

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Stock this nice is rare. When it was still in the ground, many sacrifice branches were grown, and cut back. Some of those sacrifices can get to 15 feet tall!

I've seen a picture of where my tree was grown, and a picture of a guy up on a ladder pruning them!
 

Adair M

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Here is a more recent picture, taken last April.

As you can see, I've potted it, and this shows the new front. The branch that appeared to be the primary branch on the first picture is now the back branch. A new first branch is being grafted on.

I have another oval pot for it. I may repot it next spring. No hurry. It's in great soil.
 

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thumblessprimate1

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Adair, there's no taper after that big flared portion at the base. Would you have to grow out sacrifice branches to get taper above and where exactly would those branches need to be? Thanks.
 

Adair M

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Thumbless,

I'm assuming you're asking about my tree, not Jonas's.

When we rotated the tree clockwise, it also turned the trunk line to come forward towards the viewer. It foreshortened it, and it flows better, makes it look shorter. You really can't see the trunk line from the second photo, its taken too high.

I'm not really worried about trying to get taper in that section.

The tree is, or will be, 12 inches tall. The nebari is 14 inches across. I buried the footage a little when I potted to thicken them up a little.

I'm more concerned with getting enough branches where I want them. I'm growing out a lot of long whips to bend back around to use as approach grafts.
 
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