Can you approach graft oak trees?

justBonsai

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I have a lot of long whips my oak tree is producing and I'd like to attempt to approach graft them where a large chop wound is to help facilitate closing of the callous. I figured if I can graft and have a lot of strongly growing shoots around the chop I can seal it at least partway.

Would this be a viable plan?

Thanks,
Julian
 

0soyoung

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Sure, you can do this. But grafting is a bit more artsy than simply pasting on some sticks; plus, the graft doesn't happen instantaneously - it takes a season or more. With approach grafts I think you could be
  1. planning on leaving the stems spanning the wound in place --> the grafted stems fuse to become the wound cover OR
  2. grafting only above the chop to be a supplementary supply of photosynthate and auxin to close the wound 'naturally'.
Method 1 could be advantageous in that it is the only way you will have a node the possibility of growing a shoot from the wound area, but you'll have the cosmetics of a fusion surface to contend with for along time. Still, it might be faster than method 2 and the method of doing nothing but waiting.
 

Cypress187

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In my understanding everything could be approach grafted, but I can be wrong.
 

markyscott

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Well I started my first approach grafts this season but I have yet to find out if they took. I've read a lot of threads and guides on how to do it so I think I just need to practice.

That's the only way to get better. Here are a couple of tips when you try:
  1. I often see people cutting across the grain when they cut their groove. Cut with the grain for less swelling and a more natural appearance.
  2. Practice cutting you groove first. You want it to fit like a dovetail join. Wider at the bottom of the cut and narrower to the outside. You want the narrow outside to be just wider than the shoot you're trying to graft.
  3. You want to make a couple of cuts on the shoot. One on the inside. You want that to be deep. Cut below the cambium to prevent the shoot from pushing itself out of the groove. On the side of the shoot, scrape the bark and expose the cambium.
  4. Wire the shoot into place before you graft.
  5. Hold the graft solidly in place when you put it in. You don't want anything moving around in there.
  6. Seal all of the works with cut paste. Use the clay. Goal is to prevent water from entering the graft union. You don't want the cut paste in there either, so avoid the liquidy ones.
 

justBonsai

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That's the only way to get better. Here are a couple of tips when you try:
  1. I often see people cutting across the grain when they cut their groove. Cut with the grain for less swelling and a more natural appearance.
  2. Practice cutting you groove first. You want it to fit like a dovetail join. Wider at the bottom of the cut and narrower to the outside. You want the narrow outside to be just wider than the shoot you're trying to graft.
  3. You want to make a couple of cuts on the shoot. One on the inside. You want that to be deep. Cut below the cambium to prevent the shoot from pushing itself out of the groove. On the side of the shoot, scrape the bark and expose the cambium.
  4. Wire the shoot into place before you graft.
  5. Hold the graft solidly in place when you put it in. You don't want anything moving around in there.
  6. Seal all of the works with cut paste. Use the clay. Goal is to prevent water from entering the graft union. You don't want the cut paste in there either, so avoid the liquidy ones.
Thanks, this was pretty detailed and informative. I have several trees this season I'd like to experiment with approach grafting so I'll keep these suggestions in mind.

On another note how long does it typically take for approach grafts to take? Or should you go slowly wound the original branch to encourage it to take from the new spot?
 

markyscott

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Thanks, this was pretty detailed and informative. I have several trees this season I'd like to experiment with approach grafting so I'll keep these suggestions in mind.

On another note how long does it typically take for approach grafts to take? Or should you go slowly wound the original branch to encourage it to take from the new spot?

Hi bleumon. It really depends. Best to let the tree tell you when it's done. It might be a couple of years, it might be a couple of months. Take a look at this thread for some details. http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/ebihara-maples.18215/page-8#post-355005

In general, you'll see a couple ot tell-tale signs.
  1. The cut paste will begin to flake off as the callous expands.
  2. When you pull off the cut paste, you'll see a callous beginning to form.
  3. The shoot past the graft union is thicker than the shoot before.
When you see this stuff, it's time to start weaning the shoot from the branch.
 

JesusFreak

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Don’t wanna make another thread so I’ll just use this one….I need some more buds/shoots at my chop site so I can fill it the back side. Can I bend this long shoot coming from the base for a graft? It’s a southern live oak. I’ve also considered chopping further back but have been advised against that…D35510BE-8B7E-4DE0-BEBF-C1E04BE8F865.jpeg08736AE0-F5E5-4337-91BD-3022C2EAB39C.jpeg
 
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