Carpinus Turczaninowii (Korean Hornbeam) #1

Orion_metalhead

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This was given to me by a generous local acquaintance, same individual who gave me my more advanced pines, seiju elm, and trident maple.

Age: unknown... probably about 6 yrs
Training: previous owner trained. In my care a couple months
Width: .40/.26
Height: 31"/15"

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Orion_metalhead

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Nothing major... probably just get a feel for tree and growth habits. If anything:

1) A repot in spring into a grow box.
2) air layer off the top part of the larger tree (at green).

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I think ill eventually replant at an angle to the left, mimicking trees hanging over a stream bank or cliff on a bluff. Will see. Will take cuttings as well mid summer.
 

Orion_metalhead

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Trees both leafed out but look a little weak. I think they need root work. I have a feeling they are pot bound. Need to do some general care research on the species to know how to give them best care.

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Tieball

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I have a similar tree shape in a Korean Hornbeam. It sat for years in an area that had partial sun...dappled sun exposure due to an over-hanging oak tree limb. Full sun in the spring...but as soon as the oak leafed out it was partial sun for the rest of the year. I moved it to full sun all day a couple years ago. The full sun exposure more than doubled the volume of leaves and that in turn started much better trunk growth. Pruning in the full sun just drives more back budding on my trees. Ahhhhh those years I wasted in partial sun.
 

Orion_metalhead

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Thanks Tieball. Did you leave it in full sun through hottest days in summer too? Right now its in full sun, but it was in a shaded area in the previous owners yard.
 

just.wing.it

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I also keep mine in as much sun as possible, which for me is about 11am on...for most of the year.
I did find that moving from dappled light in spring to full sun turned the leaves into cinders.....but allowing them to grow in full sun seems to acclimate them well and they look much better by the end of summer and autumn.
Keeping the bugs off is a bit of a challenge for me....Neem to the rescue.
 

Tieball

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Thanks Tieball. Did you leave it in full sun through hottest days in summer too? Right now its in full sun, but it was in a shaded area in the previous owners yard.
Yes, I leave the trees out in full sun...all summer....all year actually. The trees sit outside during the winter months also. Covered with snow and ice. I think....and someone with greater knowledge can correct me if needed...that when I see trees that care information says to shield from the hot direct sun...they mean AZ, TX, Southern CA, UT, NV. My Midwest sun is just not that hot for that long. I’ve never burned a tree in my direct sun all day. I don’t think you NJ gets that bad.
 

Tieball

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The Korean hornbeams grow very slowly. I've had one in the ground for a few years and it hasn't put on a whole lot of girth yet.
My Korean Hornbeams started in the ground also. I went along with the ground growing process...for awhile. Slow growth really. And thin leafed. The trees didn’t really start to grow until in put them in boxes, 70% inorganic substrate and 30% pine bark, moved to direct full sun all day, and just let them grow wild a few seasons. More sun = more leaves = more trunk growth. It worked for me.
 

Orion_metalhead

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These two grew ok. No major issues.

How do these do by cuttings and air layer? I want to cut the top off the big one next year.

These will be repotted. Need to find a decent pot or make a box for them... maybe a box will be best.

Front:
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From above for reference on the composition:
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Buds look healthy for next year.
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Tieball

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Every year when I prune branches my tree puts out new buds all over the tree. Everywhere. And plenty. I have a similar taller Korean Hornbeam. Right now I’m just letting that tree grow wildly. I did some pruning during the early growing season of 2020 just to encourage new lower branches and many more leaves to fuel trunk growth....along with giving it the all-day maximum amount of sun exposure. The tree responded well.

Nice healthy buds on your trees!
 

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I don't think the top part is interesting enough to bother with air layering, but when you prune, make sure you strike some cuttings if you want more plants.
 

Orion_metalhead

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I don't think the top part is interesting enough to bother with air layering, but when you prune, make sure you strike some cuttings if you want more plants.

Thanks Judy. There is some nice movement not evidenced in the photos at top. Ill get a picture later.

Have you had success with cuttings with the species? Did they root easily?
 

hinmo24t

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Yes, I leave the trees out in full sun...all summer....all year actually. The trees sit outside during the winter months also. Covered with snow and ice. I think....and someone with greater knowledge can correct me if needed...that when I see trees that care information says to shield from the hot direct sun...they mean AZ, TX, Southern CA, UT, NV. My Midwest sun is just not that hot for that long. I’ve never burned a tree in my direct sun all day. I don’t think you NJ gets that bad.
good points. maples will burn in MA summer direct sun but i think in general they dont love sun
 

JudyB

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Thanks Judy. There is some nice movement not evidenced in the photos at top. Ill get a picture later.

Have you had success with cuttings with the species? Did they root easily?
I've had success with smaller cuttings, I tried one that was probably too large and it didn't go. The reason I say it might not be worth the time is that then you loose a year of getting on with it on the tree you're keeping below. I only consider air layer if it has both some taper and movement, also if the branch chosen has some decent girth on it.
 

Orion_metalhead

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This was one of my necessity repots for the spring. It was so root bound I had to cut the pot it was growing in off it.

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I didnt want to remove too many roots, not knowing how strong the existing roots were, so I teased them out and just added new soil for the tree to grow into. In 2 or 3 years, I will be able to do some better root work after the tree strengthens.

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