Carving timing

[Hartinez]

I have a few deciduous trees I plan on carving a bit. I found 1 other thread on here that asked when the best time to carve is and it didn’t get a huge response. I’ve heard that late winter is a good time, but that is hearsay. I would also think, though, that mid summer when the tree is actively growing and healing itself would be a good time? My trees are both well established in there pots and are shohin size. They both have very large chops that I’d rather carve due to the species inability to heal quickly or at all.

so what say you? Best time to carve a deciduous tree?

 

[ConorDash]

I would say Spring.
Personally I’d treat carving like major cuts. Both cuts a large amount of live tissue, and leave exposed to the elements. Usually you’d prune in spring or summer. So both I’d say are good for carving.

I base this on my own opinion and theory and not practised experience of doing it.

 

[BrianBay9]

Late winter / early spring, before the foliage gets in the way.

 

[Hartinez]

I would say Spring.
Personally I’d treat carving like major cuts. Both cuts a large amount of live tissue, and leave exposed to the elements. Usually you’d prune in spring or summer. So both I’d say are good for carving.

I base this on my own opinion and theory and not practised experience of doing it.

Yeah that seems to make the most sense to me. I’ve carved a few privet before, but this was years ago, and none are alive anymore. But my thought process tells me that I want the tree to respond in the best way possible if live issue is damaged. That would presumably be in spring. A Harry Harrington video recently suggested that summer dormancy is the best time.

 

[0soyoung]

What are the criteria for 'best'?

 

[Hartinez]

What are the criteria for 'best'?

Let’s say best chance of recovery if excessive carving is required. Or best timing for the trees overall health. Or maybe best chance of healing if excess live tissue is cut. Any of those best. My thought would be spring in to early summer.

 

[0soyoung]

Let’s say best chance of recovery if excessive carving is required. Or best timing for the trees overall health. Or maybe best chance of healing if excess live tissue is cut. Any of those best. My thought would be spring in to early summer.

Okay. Then, whenever it is actively growing. This is when there is the greatest capacity to recover from damage to vital tissues and/or compartmentalize it.

If you're repelled by goo, don't carve a pine in spring and early summer. Don't carve a maple near bud break or immediately after leaf drop. But none of this is relevant to your criterion for 'best'.

 

[Hartinez]

Okay. Then, whenever it is actively growing. This is when there is the greatest capacity to recover from damage to vital tissues and/or compartmentalize it.

If you're repelled by goo, don't carve a pine in spring and early summer. Don't carve a maple near bud break or immediately after leaf drop. But none of this is relevant to your criterion for 'best'.

It’s specifically for my Foresteria Neomexicana or New Mexico olive trees. I’ve come to find for myself and from my club that healing over large cuts and wounds is near impossible. Planning to do a few Uros this season. Thought about doing it here soon, but decided to be a bit more thoughtful about my timing and approach.

 

[Dav4]

I'll carve live wood any time during the growing season for exactly the reason Oso pointed out.

 

[sorce]

Leo got a thing Bout frozen solid carving that makes sense.

Any vibration worries me.

Sorce

 

[Hartinez]

Leo got a thing Bout frozen solid carving that makes sense.

Any vibration worries me.

Sorce

I’d be curious. @Leo in N E Illinois care to Elaborate?

 

[Tieball]

I carve in spring.....when the tree exhibits growth starting but before to many leaves get in the way of the work. I may just be inappropriate around newly grown leaves.

I do make sure the tree is secured into the container, whatever it is (a box for me), and secured to eliminate as much movement as possible before I start carving.

 

[sorce]

I’d be curious. @Leo in N E Illinois care to Elaborate?

I think it's purely as to not jostle the roots.

Where that is more valuable than any other timing.

Norf Norf! One benefit!
Lol


Sorce

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I carve in the dead of winter.

Reason is, carving, especially with power tools can vibrate the trunk, the movement of the trunk can, does, will usually break fine feeder roots. The more you jostle the trunk, the more the trunk vibrates, the more roots you are likely to break. And the roots you will break are the fine, tender feeder roots.

So in the dead of winter, I bring in my tree to carve. Do my carving while the root ball is frozen solid, and get it back outside before the roots have a chance to thaw. This way, vibration and breaking of fine feeder roots is minimal.

However, in New Mexico, and through much of the south, you simply do not have roots frozen solid. In which case I would time carving to happen just before the normal times for a spurt of root growth. If the jostling, vibration and banging around of the trunk breaks a lot of fine feeder roots, you want to do the carving at a time that is just before a flush of new root growth. So late winter, and late summer are my normal repotting times, I would carve just before these windows of time open up for me.

This year, the media in most of my bonsai outside is not frozen. Slushy at best. So this year I would wait until the ideal repotting season to do any machine carving, especially with equipment like die grinders or mini-chain saws. Usually a Dremel type tool does not cause excessive vibration. The more gentle your tool work, the less need for being careful about timing.

 

[just.wing.it]

Leo got a thing Bout frozen solid carving that makes sense.

Any vibration worries me.

Sorce

I decided to do some carving on my BC this winter while frozen for this reason!

 

[sorce]

There can be a valid argument that it doesn't matter.
I believe these folks will have performed this carving action during the same Full Moon period in which it is good to Repot.
So they see no ill effects of the roots being damaged.

Whereas arguments solely for frozen is better may have performed this action During a New Moon, where the roots aren't able to quickly recover.

I encourage people to watch for this cycle.

You may catch that top growth a wee bit less after carving.

This cycle of the moon follows what Ryan talks about, "enough to sustain and add", each time.
The root growth dictates wether the top will add.
Look for it.

Old roots keep sustaining old top.
New roots say add.

Realize that our actions to keep the tree in top health negate easy to see signs of this cycle, hence, "they just keep growing", as there is also a lot of crossover In the cycles, since Mycorrhiza helps trees know weather days out. The tree may find optimal sun to grow top, because it knows it will get rain soon to regrow roots.

We must stay Keen to these cycles to coax out everything we can.

Enter, Connect your trees To The Earth campaign.

I'd bet this accounts for at least 10% better health.

And it may account for why grounded trees survive winter better.

Sorce

 

[AlainK]

I have a few deciduous trees I plan on carving a bit.

What "deciduous trees"?

Some react better than others, and to me, most shouldn't be "carved". But that's a personal taste

 

[Hartinez]

I carve in the dead of winter.

Reason is, carving, especially with power tools can vibrate the trunk, the movement of the trunk can, does, will usually break fine feeder roots. The more you jostle the trunk, the more the trunk vibrates, the more roots you are likely to break. And the roots you will break are the fine, tender feeder roots.

So in the dead of winter, I bring in my tree to carve. Do my carving while the root ball is frozen solid, and get it back outside before the roots have a chance to thaw. This way, vibration and breaking of fine feeder roots is minimal.

However, in New Mexico, and through much of the south, you simply do not have roots frozen solid. In which case I would time carving to happen just before the normal times for a spurt of root growth. If the jostling, vibration and banging around of the trunk breaks a lot of fine feeder roots, you want to do the carving at a time that is just before a flush of new root growth. So late winter, and late summer are my normal repotting times, I would carve just before these windows of time open up for me.

This year, the media in most of my bonsai outside is not frozen. Slushy at best. So this year I would wait until the ideal repotting season to do any machine carving, especially with equipment like die grinders or mini-chain saws. Usually a Dremel type tool does not cause excessive vibration. The more gentle your tool work, the less need for being careful about timing.

In parts of NM it certainly gets cold to the point of frozen solid root masses for long periods of time, but your right, Abq not so much. Coldest we’ll get is 5-15 degrees or so. We’re currently in the mid to upper 20’s right now. I think I’ll wait till April just before repotting to handle it. Fortunately, both trees are not large and will only need minor work.