Chaenomelis - Chinese quince

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,054
Reaction score
27,395
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
I grew a quince in my growing beds for a few years, cutting back every year. In winter I lifted it, potted it up and wired the branches in place. I was wondering.. Anybody have experience with this species? How long do mature branches take to set in place?

20200119-R14A3063-70.jpg
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,754
Reaction score
12,779
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
I grew a quince in my growing beds for a few years, cutting back every year. In winter I lifted it, potted it up and wired the branches in place. I was wondering.. Anybody have experience with this species? How long do mature branches take to set in place?

View attachment 335149
With Quince the usual practice is to wire the new shoots for form, usually 7-10 cm at a time. The rest is usually cut back and therefore not wired out to the tip during the growing season. I would expect mature branches to take a year or two to set form. And if wiring more mature branches would use a two wire approach to reduce breakage and the tendency to cut in too deep while waiting for the branch to set. The two wire approach refers to same size spaced a bit apart to provide additional support when bending. Some times the double wire is wrapped beside each other, not in this instance.
 

Clicio

Masterpiece
Messages
3,002
Reaction score
8,304
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
USDA Zone
11a
I have the same doubt as @leatherback .
If I don't wire, straight sticks; if I wire and let the wires on till the branches harden, the wires bite.
Perhaps @River's Edge technique will solve this problem, thanks Fred!
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,754
Reaction score
12,779
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
I have the same doubt as @leatherback .
If I don't wire, straight sticks; if I wire and let the wires on till the branches harden, the wires bite.
Perhaps @River's Edge technique will solve this problem, thanks Fred!
Who's Fred!;)
Always better to wire early with species that tend to be brittle! Using raffia or similar wrap, spacing the wire are all techniques used to deal with the more difficult bends to protect against breakage and damage to the bark. The spaced wire technique provides twice as many support points for bending over the same distance!
I still break a few, but fewer than before!
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,054
Reaction score
27,395
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
If I don't wire, straight sticks; if I wire and let the wires on till the branches harden, the wires bite.
I am normally a fan of baby banding. It is just.. This thick base had branches. And in the filed I did not wire. I just clipped out the big branches every once in a while. I did not want to cut back to a stump. Over summer I wired the young shoots in place. THose will have set, no concerns!
 

Clicio

Masterpiece
Messages
3,002
Reaction score
8,304
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
USDA Zone
11a
Only if they are woody. If you do it when still green and starting to mature a 1mm alu will do the job.
Exactly, the old straight ones get double wiring, the new growth get a little bending near the bottom of the not so woody branches.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,462
Reaction score
10,735
Location
Netherlands
@bonhe uses a soft-bending technique that I use in softer plants as well.
Squeeze the branches while they're still green and make sure you damage (but not destroy!) the tissue. Then wiggle at the pinch position; if your thumb and index finger are at the top and the bottom, move up or down. If they were on the sides, you can do left/right movement. This allows the crushed tissue to flex way more since plant tissue is organized in stacked layers (like some electrical wires) and squeezing/crushing those will break the tension and prevent snapping, and if done right there's hardly any scarring after two seasons. No need for wire, because they'll heal in the way they are oriented.

Think of it like a pack of dry spaghetti: If you bundle them and bend them, they'll snap. If you lay every string next to one another, they flex way more. If you wet them at the bending point and let them dry over night, they'll stay in place.

My chaenomeles japonica are still in their infant stages from seed, or year-old cuttings from parking lot ones.. But it seems like this bending technique could work.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you guys know how the tissue responds, not every plant takes this technique well.
 

Paulpash

Masterpiece
Messages
2,008
Reaction score
6,022
Location
UK. Yorkshire
Here's how I handle them. In Spring remove the first pair of leaves on the stem. They will remain budless if left in tact. Allow green stems to extend 8-10 nodes then cut back to 2-3. Wire when shoots are still green - you should be able to get a wiggle in. Only by building up lots of vigour will you get more than 1 bud to grow in to a shoot after extension growth cut back. Keep an eye on wire but it should set in 6 weeks. Here's mine last year. I should have taken a pic of it today - I cut back the long growth after I was sure it had finished for the year. The top third of the centre trunk is a lot fuller now. One other thing is that hard cut back into old wood in Winter causes a lot of dormant buds to waken if it has grown vigorously all season - more so than with regular pruning during the growing season. IMG_20200414_154120.jpg
 

bonhe

Masterpiece
Messages
4,147
Reaction score
8,765
Location
Riverside, CA
USDA Zone
11
@bonhe uses a soft-bending technique that I use in softer plants as well.
Squeeze the branches while they're still green and make sure you damage (but not destroy!) the tissue. Then wiggle at the pinch position; if your thumb and index finger are at the top and the bottom, move up or down. If they were on the sides, you can do left/right movement. This allows the crushed tissue to flex way more since plant tissue is organized in stacked layers (like some electrical wires) and squeezing/crushing those will break the tension and prevent snapping, and if done right there's hardly any scarring after two seasons. No need for wire, because they'll heal in the way they are oriented.

Think of it like a pack of dry spaghetti: If you bundle them and bend them, they'll snap. If you lay every string next to one another, they flex way more. If you wet them at the bending point and let them dry over night, they'll stay in place.

My chaenomeles japonica are still in their infant stages from seed, or year-old cuttings from parking lot ones.. But it seems like this bending technique could work.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you guys know how the tissue responds, not every plant takes this technique well.
Thanks for pulling me up to this discussion 😊
Yes, I have been using this technique for a while on pomegranate, quince. It is very effective. I even made a soft break on these specimens . This quince was taken picture 2 weeks ago
It had a straight branch which went upward (in red circle)
97267763-53AD-4244-A243-1D00718F7B33.jpeg

I made a soft break on this branch. It took me about 2 seconds to do! The yellow arrow is pointed to the broken site . The branch is going downward now
10C2628B-D06E-4446-847B-A6B9603C4B07.jpeg

91C896CD-9658-4189-86C9-25E142F1AFFE.jpeg

It is just now . Healing well.
956E187D-E324-4BC8-894F-E99C09DF7ABF.jpeg
0A7A9105-5BE1-4229-8062-F9DF3A685C0E.jpeg
Thụ Thoại
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,754
Reaction score
12,779
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
Thanks for pulling me up to this discussion 😊
Yes, I have been using this technique for a while on pomegranate, quince. It is very effective. I even made a soft break on these specimens . This quince was taken picture 2 weeks ago
It had a straight branch which went upward (in red circle)
View attachment 335356

I made a soft break on this branch. It took me about 2 seconds to do! The yellow arrow is pointed to the broken site . The branch is going downward now
View attachment 335357

View attachment 335358

It is just now . Healing well.
View attachment 335355
View attachment 335354
Thụ Thoại
Interesting, how well does the technique work for upward or sideways movement. Any additional steps required?
Does the area where the soft break is created eventually return to normal appearance or appear damaged?
 

bonhe

Masterpiece
Messages
4,147
Reaction score
8,765
Location
Riverside, CA
USDA Zone
11
Interesting, how well does the technique work for upward or sideways movement. Any additional steps required?
Does the area where the soft break is created eventually return to normal appearance or appear damaged?
Thanks for asking. I don’t do upward or sideway movements, so I can not answer !
No additional step!
With pomegranate, it tends to spring back to original status but much less. In this case, I just reapply the technique
If it is broken with the hardwood coming out (like open fracture on the human with the bone coming out from the wound ), it will stay like that forever if we’d don’t cut off the part of the hardwood exposed to the outside. Otherwise, the area will be healed well. These areas had soft breaking technique a few years ago.
41731C2F-C6DD-4759-91B4-A174D7C4D482.jpeg F26F8340-6756-4A95-A89C-8CF250752AA2.jpeg

Thụ Thoại
 
Top Bottom