You are right.I believe this is the Japanese Flowering Quince and not the Chinese Quince, Pseudocydonia sinensis
With Quince the usual practice is to wire the new shoots for form, usually 7-10 cm at a time. The rest is usually cut back and therefore not wired out to the tip during the growing season. I would expect mature branches to take a year or two to set form. And if wiring more mature branches would use a two wire approach to reduce breakage and the tendency to cut in too deep while waiting for the branch to set. The two wire approach refers to same size spaced a bit apart to provide additional support when bending. Some times the double wire is wrapped beside each other, not in this instance.I grew a quince in my growing beds for a few years, cutting back every year. In winter I lifted it, potted it up and wired the branches in place. I was wondering.. Anybody have experience with this species? How long do mature branches take to set in place?
View attachment 335149
Really? So I need to revert to @Bonsai Nut ?My powers, like the clothes of young lovers, or paint on an old car, or leaves in a typhoon, like the jacket off wire to be annealed for use, have been stripped!
Sorce
Who's Fred!I have the same doubt as @leatherback .
If I don't wire, straight sticks; if I wire and let the wires on till the branches harden, the wires bite.
Perhaps @River's Edge technique will solve this problem, thanks Fred!
I am normally a fan of baby banding. It is just.. This thick base had branches. And in the filed I did not wire. I just clipped out the big branches every once in a while. I did not want to cut back to a stump. Over summer I wired the young shoots in place. THose will have set, no concerns!If I don't wire, straight sticks; if I wire and let the wires on till the branches harden, the wires bite.
Over summer I wired the young shoots in place. THose will have set, no concerns!
Only if they are woody. If you do it when still green and starting to mature a 1mm alu will do the job.I guess I will try the double wiring as suggested by @River's Edge .
Exactly, the old straight ones get double wiring, the new growth get a little bending near the bottom of the not so woody branches.Only if they are woody. If you do it when still green and starting to mature a 1mm alu will do the job.
Thanks for pulling me up to this discussion@bonhe uses a soft-bending technique that I use in softer plants as well.
Squeeze the branches while they're still green and make sure you damage (but not destroy!) the tissue. Then wiggle at the pinch position; if your thumb and index finger are at the top and the bottom, move up or down. If they were on the sides, you can do left/right movement. This allows the crushed tissue to flex way more since plant tissue is organized in stacked layers (like some electrical wires) and squeezing/crushing those will break the tension and prevent snapping, and if done right there's hardly any scarring after two seasons. No need for wire, because they'll heal in the way they are oriented.
Think of it like a pack of dry spaghetti: If you bundle them and bend them, they'll snap. If you lay every string next to one another, they flex way more. If you wet them at the bending point and let them dry over night, they'll stay in place.
My chaenomeles japonica are still in their infant stages from seed, or year-old cuttings from parking lot ones.. But it seems like this bending technique could work.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you guys know how the tissue responds, not every plant takes this technique well.
Interesting, how well does the technique work for upward or sideways movement. Any additional steps required?Thanks for pulling me up to this discussion
Yes, I have been using this technique for a while on pomegranate, quince. It is very effective. I even made a soft break on these specimens . This quince was taken picture 2 weeks ago
It had a straight branch which went upward (in red circle)
View attachment 335356
I made a soft break on this branch. It took me about 2 seconds to do! The yellow arrow is pointed to the broken site . The branch is going downward now
View attachment 335357
View attachment 335358
It is just now . Healing well.
View attachment 335355
View attachment 335354
Thụ Thoại
Thanks for asking. I don’t do upward or sideway movements, so I can not answer !Interesting, how well does the technique work for upward or sideways movement. Any additional steps required?
Does the area where the soft break is created eventually return to normal appearance or appear damaged?