Cheap Bonsai Soil Mix?

SilentMouse

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So, as previously stated I am new to bonsai. Thus far, I've been able to use commercial, pre-mixed bonsai soil for my couple of trees but as I have acquired a good handful more this spring...it looks like, next time around a few bags of the already made stuff isn't gonna cut it. My hope is to make my own for next spring and I am looking for some of what everyone else is doing that isn't super expensive and also not containing anything I can't find around me locally (at places like a local gardening centre, Home Depot/Lowes etc).

I know perlite is gonna be one- I've looked up a few suggestions so far and ALL of them have the stuff. Not to mention it is something I use in my regular house plant containers and notice in the pre-made bonsai mix I used this spring. Also aware that all these things will have to be shifted to get rid of the smaller, fine particles :).

But other than that, any soil mixes or suggestions that won't break the bank? Any suggestions would be awesome!
 

DonovanC

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I use the Nigel Saunders 50/50 sifted perlite and turface mix. As you know, perlite is easy to come by, but the turface isn’t always that easy to find. I get mine from Tracker Supply Company under the brand name Safe T Sorb. If you don’t have a TSC in your area, then a quick google search for Safe T Sorb should point you in the right direction. I get a large bag of perlite for $16US and a 40lb bag of Safe T Sorb for $6 and I usually throw about 25% organic compost which is like $3 - so I spend around $25 for a huge tub of perfectly suitable bonsai soil and that lasts me through the season and into the next.
Edit: I forgot to expand on the sifting - I mix an equal volume of perlite and turface in a big tub. I use a large sifter to remove all the dust and fine particles. Then I do the same with the organic compost and mix that in. It’s important to sift everything or else your soil won’t drain properly and can even get almost muddy sometimes.
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AZbonsai

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The definitive source for cheap/quality substrate: Go to the @sorce

 

penumbra

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A turface like material as suggested above is a cheap alternative if it is mixed with another product to keep it for forming layers that both retain too much water and at the same time reduce the water flow through it. Turface by itself will pack and become oxygen deficient, at least for me.
Any of the following can be used depending upon the needs of the plant, size of the plant and container shape size and material.
Fine pine or fir bark
Crushed granite
Pumice
Lava stone
Crushed brick
Diatomaceous Earth ( though it may retain too much moisture for some plants when mixed with turface)

Avoid:
Peat moss (unless raw chunks)
Sand
Vermiculite

Notice I didn't mention perlite. I don't like it for bonsai soil as it is too light and it floats to the top of the mix.
 

smilezzz

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It depends on your climate. Personally, I like commercial mix. It's hot in summer over here, pots heat up and dry out quickly. Winters extremely dry as well, so I use the cheap mass produced ready mixes as it contains a lot of water retentive substrates. I then mix in pool filter sand (river sand) that you can buy at any hardware.

30% river sand, 70% cheap mix. No issues.
 

BajaKen

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A turface like material as suggested above is a cheap alternative if it is mixed with another product to keep it for forming layers that both retain too much water and at the same time reduce the water flow through it. Turface by itself will pack and become oxygen deficient, at least for me.
Any of the following can be used depending upon the needs of the plant, size of the plant and container shape size and material.
Fine pine or fir bark
Crushed granite
Pumice
Lava stone
Crushed brick
Diatomaceous Earth ( though it may retain too much moisture for some plants when mixed with turface)

Avoid:
Peat moss (unless raw chunks)
Sand
Vermiculite

Notice I didn't mention perlite. I don't like it for bonsai soil as it is too light and it floats to the top of the mix.

Okay, seedling here again. I hear Sphagnum Moss mentioned a lot as part of a mix, and I've also heard Peat Moss recommended. I've looked online and can see Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss and that cannot be what they are talking about. To be honest I have yet to find any of it in stock at the big box so it's not much of an issue yet.

Based on combined recommendations, I was considering a mix of potting soil, Vermiculite, Moss (when I sort all of your recommendations), one of the stones, Pumice or Lava. I'll also use this mix for succulents. I know there is not likely the perfect, everyone agrees, homegrown brew. I may just give up, but it seems silly buying dirt online. Any others like "penumbra' got suggestions?

-K
 

penumbra

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Okay, seedling here again. I hear Sphagnum Moss mentioned a lot as part of a mix, and I've also heard Peat Moss recommended. I've looked online and can see Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss and that cannot be what they are talking about. To be honest I have yet to find any of it in stock at the big box so it's not much of an issue yet.

Based on combined recommendations, I was considering a mix of potting soil, Vermiculite, Moss (when I sort all of your recommendations), one of the stones, Pumice or Lava. I'll also use this mix for succulents. I know there is not likely the perfect, everyone agrees, homegrown brew. I may just give up, but it seems silly buying dirt online. Any others like "penumbra' got suggestions?

-K
Do yourself a favor and buy a pre made mix from someone reputable.
Then start your science projects if you like.
This topic has been beat to death so often that most are going to avoid it.
Look in the archive.
It is a soil war.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I use perlite, I buy the coarser grade, 3/16 to 3/8ths inch. Sift over window screen to eliminate fines. Perlite is a good alternative to pumice. I top dress perlite based mixes with a thin layer of long fiber sphagnum moss. Perlite & seedling grade orchid bark about 60:40 to 75:25 are a good mix.

Napa 8822, & Optisorb are too fine a partical, good for tiny trees in pots 4 inches or less.

Turface is slightly more coarse.

Check the local hydroponics shops, see who stocks pumice. By far, the single best ingredient is pumice. Lansing Michigan must have a dozen grow shops.
 

August44

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I use the Nigel Saunders 50/50 sifted perlite and turface mix. As you know, perlite is easy to come by, but the turface isn’t always that easy to find. I get mine from Tracker Supply Company under the brand name Safe T Sorb. If you don’t have a TSC in your area, then a quick google search for Safe T Sorb should point you in the right direction. I get a large bag of perlite for $16US and a 40lb bag of Safe T Sorb for $6 and I usually throw about 25% organic compost which is like $3 - so I spend around $25 for a huge tub of perfectly suitable bonsai soil and that lasts me through the season and into the next.
Edit: I forgot to expand on the sifting - I mix an equal volume of perlite and turface in a big tub. I use a large sifter to remove all the dust and fine particles. Then I do the same with the organic compost and mix that in. It’s important to sift everything or else your soil won’t drain properly and can even get almost muddy sometimes.
View attachment 311321


What are you screening with if I can ask. I use 1/4" hardware cloth that seems to work pretty well. Maybe I should go bigger??
 

DonovanC

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What are you screening with if I can ask. I use 1/4" hardware cloth that seems to work pretty well. Maybe I should go bigger??

I actually just use screen door mesh stretched over a wood frame, so mich smaller than what you’re using. So far it’s never been an issue for me - but I have all Shohin bonsai; nothing large. 69EFB48B-31C9-4F83-9003-518E81CF0D6B.jpeg
 

August44

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Is the reason you are using perlite verses pumice just the cost difference?
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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East of Mississippi River, pumice is hard to find and expensive due to shipping costs.

Oh, the reason I top dress with long fiber sphagnum on perlite containing mixes, it the top dressing prevents the perlite from floating and separating in the pot. Some care with watering needs to be taken. But it works reasonably well.

I did go in with friends and got a bulk shipment of pumice, so I use pumice while I have it, but I used perlite for many decades before I could get pumice.
 

BajaKen

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Do yourself a favor and buy a pre made mix from someone reputable.
Then start your science projects if you like.
This topic has been beat to death so often that most are going to avoid it.
Look in the archive.
It is a soil war.

To be honest, even though I'm into it now, I think you are correct. Once I use the supply I have on hand I'm going to save myself some time, money, and space and do as you say. I wish I'd asked earlier. Space is now my primary motivation... If I had a lot of room, I'd do it for the fun, and I applaud those who can.
 

TN_Jim

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Diatomaceous Earth aka NAPA 8822. 100% for deciduous, and 50/50 Diatomaceous Earth and Pumice for pines.

View attachment 311476

All sifted of course
Amen.
Agreed for most in my experience; however, there are a couple of those species that are naturally in drier habitats that I’ve begun to up the drainage. We can get long spells of a lot of rain, and de can really hold the moisture.

Adding volcanic has seemed to increase immune systems of trees such as E. Hop Hornbeam. This has been shown positive in these trees bthem being less susceptible to fungal pathogens and tiny critters as well.

I believe 8822 is the base ingredient to all of my trees mixes, except the few in huge nursery cans never repotted. I’ve never used akadama and don’t seem to need to at this point.

I can ship shohin pumice (reasonable $) from my work here in Nashville if anyone is interested, just need to work out some details on my end. Hope to start new thread on this eventually.
 

TN_Jim

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I haven't either!

Shout out to my man Sorce! I'd probably be put the hobby if I had to look for Akadama all the time lol

Plus my local napa will do 30% off once a month. Dirt cheap.
Man that’s so true. I remember first looking up bonsai soil online and thinking, I gotta be looking at this wrong!!?🤪.....aaaand that’s not ever going to work..

Sorce, and M. Frary as well, seriously helped make bonsai a reality.

also..despite my post above, I’ve had a bunch of conifers in pure 8822 for awhile now that have always been extremely healthy.

ride the rails!!!😂😂😂
843D4635-CECD-42F2-964D-D7D6D695444D.jpeg
 
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