Chinese Elm Outside overwatering?

[brianmm64]

I have a Chinese Elm that I have outside.
Actually I have 2, one is doing good and the other not so good.
They get morning sun and then 40% shade the rest of the day. Using 40% shadecloth.
The leaves on the big elm seem to turn yellow and drop even some of the new ones.
I bought it 6 months ago from the local nursery (bonsai shop also). I had it inside up until 3 weeks ago. I live in Michigan and the weather has been on the cooler side, mid 50s at night. Mid 70s during the day.
I water when the soil feels dry near the base of the tree making sure it runs out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Fertilizer every other week with bonsai nutrients.
Just seems like it should be doing better?
Any input would be very much appreciated.

 

[Shibui]

Except for sparse leaves they both look very healthy.
Without seeing what sort of potting mix is in each pot it is hard to decide whether under or overwatering could be the problem. Both seem to produce similar symptoms.
A check of the roots could help diagnose the issue. Overwatering causes roots to rot which you should see if you lift the entire root ball out of the pot and check the roots.
Sometimes if a tree is very root bound it becomes difficult for water to penetrate right into the root zone, no matter how well you water. Try pushing a pointed stick, skewer or screwdriver into the soil in a few places to check how compacted the root mass is. It is probably too late to root prune this season if you have a problem but soaking the pot in a tub once a week will help it absorb water better. You can see that I actually suspect underwatering as a possible issue.

I also suspect these are 2 different varieties of elm. The compact one in the green pot looks like standard Chinese elm. The long, straight shoots and lack of taper in the other tree looks more like growth habit of the variety I know as 'catlin elm'. My catlin elms always have that sparse look so looking like that would be perfectly normal for catlin elm. They need far more constant trimming to maintain dense foliage pads.

 

[brianmm64]

I don’t know if this helps?

 

[Shibui]

One mix appears to have finer particles. I guess the blue pot would dry out much faster than the other one but the particles look like akadama? which may hold more water in that mix. I can't tell from a photo.
At this depth it does not seem to be pot bound.

 

[brianmm64]

Also if you don’t mind confirming?
Is this a Serissa Mount Fuji

 

[Shibui]

Sorry Brian, it does look like a serissa but I am not familiar enough with the varieties to hazard a guess at the variety.
Hopefully someone with better knowledge will respond to the ID thread.

 

[sorce]

The one doing poorly has them green balls of death in it.

Sorce

 

[brianmm64]

The one doing poorly has them green balls of death in it.

Sorce

What the heck is that?

 

[Stan Kengai]

It looks like your biggest problem is the potting medium, but there isn't much you can do about that this time of year. Elms like a more free-draining substrate than other deciduous trees. So make sure they are getting pretty dry between waterings. This is easier said than done though. You want to water just before the plant begins to wilt.

One thing that will help your plants dry out a little faster: elms are full-sun plants. Mine get 6 hours of full sun, and would get more if my yard could give it to them. And I would venture to guess that the sun here is a little stronger than your location. Don't just throw them out into full sun. They will need to be transitioned into full sun over a course of 3-4 weeks.

 

[brianmm64]

Thank you could be part of my problem.
It went from the house to full sun.
I'm in Michigan. Can they handle the full sun all day while I'm at work....watered properly of course.
I try to let them dry out pretty good between watering.
The photos I posted were two days ago.
They got caught in the rain while I was working.
I have full sun all day.
And I did notice some of the leaves curling a bit....

 

[sorce]

What the heck is that?

They call it fertilizer.



I call it poison!

Sorce

 

[Forsoothe!]

If you spend 5 minutes in a closet and walk out into the sun, you'll be getting a dose of what you did with your plants. They will forgive you, but only if you treat them better. The light receptors of all houseplants need to be gently adjusted from in-going-out and vice-versa. From inside; to high shade, then dappled shade, to east sun, thence full sun, one week for each step. Outdoors, full sun and hose 'em done once every day it doesn't rain. Root-rot is not a problem in full sun, ever, except for Pines.

 

[brianmm64]

They call it fertilizer.

View attachment 247305

I call it poison!

Sorce

Da, I should have known....lol
I dont use that junk...its what it came in when I bought it...
Learning a lot.
Won't be using it.
Thanks for the tip.
And I've have been finally repotting my own. Didn't know enough when I first started.
I have 10 different bonsai....only one with semi issues.

 

[brianmm64]

If you spend 5 minutes in a closet and walk out into the sun, you'll be getting a dose of what you did with your plants. They will forgive you, but only if you treat them better. The light receptors of all houseplants need to be gently adjusted from in-going-out and vice-versa. From inside; to high shade, then dappled shade, to east sun, thence full sun, one week for each step. Outdoors, full sun and hose 'em done once every day it doesn't rain. Root-rot is not a problem in full sun, ever, except for Pines.

Rookie mistake , promise won't happen again......lol thanks for all the help.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Don't forget to prune them. If you don't do maintenance pruning to maintain tight foliage pads, all the branches will grow long, and the interior leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Once you prune them back, they will bud back all over the trunk and branches.