Chinese Elm trunk chop decision

clevetromba

Shohin
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I've been having an internal debate that I hope to get some opinions about with regard to this Chinese Elm, that has been growing in the ground for three years and has reach a girth of about 3" at the base. I chopped the trunk to 17" tall earlier this Winter, but as I have been studying it, I think it needs to be chopped down lower to about 8" to introduce better taper. I am also thinking about cutting off the second trunk flush with the first and hollowing out the cut. I don't mind having a large hollow, as long as the cambium grows and rolls over the edges.
Does anyone have opinions about keeping the second trunk, or removing it?
Do you agree about chopping the main trunk lower down?
Should it be dug up, or left in the ground to more quickly grow out a new leader?
(I don't know what the roots look like except for the nice root flare at the base) Should I be concerned about the roots at this point?
IMG_3242.jpg
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Yes, be concerned with the surface roots, they should dictate the front.
You could easily get away with eliminating the second trunk, and I'd reduce the height of the first one too, to the 6" mark on your ruler. Then a couple more years in the ground to close the wounds.
This is a Chinese elm?
 

erb.75

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I actually like the tree as it is....but it could be styled in a variety of ways. I would keep the trunks as they are and develop branches next. You even got taper started for you!
 

MidMichBonsai

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I think a lower trunk chop is the way to go. Definitely pay attention to the nebari as you decide how to proceed. It looks like you have a good start on it. I think Brian is right that about 6" is the place to do chop. If you leave it at it's current height, I think you will find that you will be disappointed with the end product as it will render the center 8-10" of the trunk the same diameter and relatively uninteresting. If you do the hard work of chopping now, I think you will be much more satisfied with the end result 8-10 yrs. down the road.

Best of luck and keep us updated.
 

M. Frary

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I would want to cut off the whole left leader and cut the right one down some too. That's just me but you get movement and taper together at one time.
 

clevetromba

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I would want to cut off the whole left leader and cut the right one down some too. That's just me but you get movement and taper together at one time.
Mike,
I feel like that would be too much taper for my taste. I'm not crazy about the drastically tapered look, I prefer something a little more naturalistic.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Mike,
I feel like that would be too much taper for my taste. I'm not crazy about the drastically tapered look, I prefer something a little more naturalistic.

Initially you mentioned cutting it down to 8" high. If you're considering making a single-trunk tree, the first chop removing the right trunk gives the first hint of taper and movement at 4", then you'd have another taperless cylinder from 4"-8". I think, in time you would find that to be a flaw.

If you're going for a taller, broom-like tree instead, you cut the right trunk to 6" and the left trunk to 8", and leave it in the ground a couple more years to develop the next sections.

I do not think this is Chinese Elm. It could be American, Siberian, or Slippery elm. They'll all make good bonsai.
 
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My biggest concern would be the rootbase. I would lift it and place it in a big growing box and sort out the first big flaws. Since there arn't much visible buds i would cut the small one to the 7 " mark and the big one to the 11 inch mark. This leaves all options open. After a few years in the box you can decide if the tree needs again in the ground for a while, or not. I don't think its chinese...
 

clevetromba

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If you're going for a taller, broom-like tree instead, you cut the right trunk to 6" and the left trunk to 8", and leave it in the ground a couple more years to develop the next sections.

I do not think this is Chinese Elm. It could be American, Siberian, or Slippery elm. They'll all make good bonsai.

I like the idea of a broom style for this, since that is the natural habit of many Elms.

Well, I suppose it's possible that the winged seeds from a different species was blown under the Chinese Elm where I collected them. I'm quite certain it was a Chinese Elm, or something very similar, but there are other Elm species in the neighborhood.
 

clevetromba

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If you're going for a taller, broom-like tree instead, you cut the right trunk to 6" and the left trunk to 8", and leave it in the ground a couple more years to develop the next sections.

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I do think a mature, wide spreading broom style is what I want here, but I'm not sure I want to keep the smaller trunk. I think a second trunk detracts from the power and majesty of a solid single trunk, like this:
Chinese-Elm-bonsai-old.jpg
 

clevetromba

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...but maybe I can't achieve that with my tree, since I have a split and the trunks both lean slightly outwards.
 

clevetromba

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Well, I took the plunge and made some cuts to both trunks. After driving around my neighborhood to look at mature Elm trees, I decided to go for a wide vase shaped broom style. My six-year old was not happy with me stopping at the side of the road to snap pictures on the way home, but I managed to get this picture which I think is close to what I'm shooting for:
2015-04-25 13.07.47.jpg
Here's my tree after the two saw cuts:
2015-04-28 08.13.01.jpg
 

MidMichBonsai

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Thus it begins...I think you will be pleased down the road with your decision. You now have a much more powerful looking trunk and the elm should grow like a weed now.

Looking forward to seeing this guy progress.
 

clevetromba

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I often see people making a V-shaped notch on the top when developing the broom style. My question with that is, wouldn't it be better to wait until there are some shoots growing and then decide where how the V should be positioned?
 
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