Chinese elm (Ulmus parviflora) - Styling advice

WesB

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That will work too. I would choose the first branch because the next section of trunk line is long and not very interesting (to me at least) .

Another idea is to angle the tree so that the first branch points upward and the trunk section now becomes the main branch. Even angling it deeply to a semi cascade style and lots of branch growing would work.

Third is the grow on option. Put the tree into a nice growing pot and let it go for 3-5 years then reevaluate. An annual cut back of the leggy stuff eill encourage back budding and give you a lot more secondary branches to work with. That first branch after a few years may end up just being a sacrifice branch.

There’s a lot you can do. No right or wrong. Think of where a lot of bonsai come from, it’s nursery stock that’s clip and grown out for 20+ years to become 5 feet tall trees for Japanese Gardens. The ones that reach a point to where it’s decided they will make a better bonsai than landscaping are pulled and trained as bonsai. 5 years can totally change a tree or ones mind ;)
 

WesB

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Another idea, grow the tree wild all year in a grow pot. Winterize it and in spring when it wakes up dry chop the long trunk section. In the middle or a bit lower would be nice. The tree will pop buds all around the chop, let these grow for all of 2020 then spring 2021 you can choose a leader and any new side branches that should have grown.
 

JudyB

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I agree either way will work. You might want to start with the safe version, you can always cut more off, but hard to glue parts back on... :)
These grow fast so you should have plenty of options once it starts up.
 

August44

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Ur right about ugly for sure. Have fun!
 

NaturalArt

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Another idea, grow the tree wild all year in a grow pot. Winterize it and in spring when it wakes up dry chop the long trunk section. In the middle or a bit lower would be nice. The tree will pop buds all around the chop, let these grow for all of 2020 then spring 2021 you can choose a leader and any new side branches that should have grown.

@WesB I actually have the option to grow in a raised grow box at the apartments garden, only reason I hesitate is I don't know if I am going to be staying at this apartment for more then a year. A large grow pot is a good idea. Thank you for the all the advice! I like the idea of changing the potting angle but I have to check out the nebari a litter better before I decide if that is an option because the trees best feature is definitely the trunk and nebari so I would hate to bury good nebari to achieve a new potting angle.
 

NaturalArt

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I agree either way will work. You might want to start with the safe version, you can always cut more off, but hard to glue parts back on... :)
These grow fast so you should have plenty of options once it starts up.

@JudyB I was thinking the same thing, if I chop it around the second curve I can always chop it again later if I don't get a leader that I like. I think my current plan is to chop in about a month after it acclimates to its new environment, and before the buds swell. Then repot when it's warm enough here for it to go outside.
 

ConorDash

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I actually wanted to find a few of these cheap mallsai to mess about with. It was my first tree, currently 2 trees, it’s top half growing in the ground now.

You can work wonders and turn them in to something really cool over the years, for dirt cheap.
Most of all, you can learn.
 

NaturalArt

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I actually wanted to find a few of these cheap mallsai to mess about with. It was my first tree, currently 2 trees, it’s top half growing in the ground now.

You can work wonders and turn them in to something really cool over the years, for dirt cheap.
Most of all, you can learn.

@ConorDash I would love to see pictures! I figured for $20 if it doesn't work out it didn't break the bank. My nursery had some larger ones for $80+ (with more S curves) and slightly thinner trunks so I thought this was a decent find compared to the rest. I've actually been looking for an elm that didn't have an the S curves and decided instead to just make my own :D
I'm excited to learn from this one!
 

LanceMac10

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I'll be in Colorado Springs the end of April.....hoping it warms up a bit by then!!

Good luck with your tree!!
 

Maloghurst

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@JudyB @Maloghurst
Is this what you were thinking when you said cut above the first branch/ around the second bend?View attachment 226168
Actually Judy and I were saying two different things. I believe she agreed with your original virt.
I was saying to start something like this. Chop just before the second bend to prevent any dieback and so you increase the chance of getting a new leader where want. If you cut right at the first branch I think you are throwing away good taper in the blue circled area. Develop a new leader just after the first bend somewhere. Let it thicken before actually chopping back to it and develop your tree from that. I just used that pic because it was there. I don’t know if that’s he best angle or tilting the tree might help also.
DD1B19CC-C5A4-4C69-BAB7-86FDDD019290.jpegDD1B19CC-C5A4-4C69-BAB7-86FDDD019290.jpeg
 

NaturalArt

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Actually Judy and I were saying two different things. I believe she agreed with your original virt.
I was saying to start something like this. Chop just before the second bend to prevent any dieback and so you increase the chance of getting a new leader where want. If you cut right at the first branch I think you are throwing away good taper in the blue circled area. Develop a new leader just after the first bend somewhere. Let it thicken before actually chopping back to it and develop your tree from that. I just used that pic because it was there. I don’t know if that’s he best angle or tilting the tree might help also.

@Maloghurst That makes a lot of sense, I agree. It would be a waste to chop off the taper in the section. I was planning on chopping around that area but use a leader that came from the chop site, however I was concerned about re-establishing the S curve by doing that. I really like this suggestion! Is there a way to encourage bud/branch development at that spot? Or just hope for the best :D

Thank you!

Z
 

Maloghurst

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@Maloghurst That makes a lot of sense, I agree. It would be a waste to chop off the taper in the section. I was planning on chopping around that area but use a leader that came from the chop site, however I was concerned about re-establishing the S curve by doing that. I really like this suggestion! Is there a way to encourage bud/branch development at that spot? Or just hope for the best :D

Thank you!

Z
No way to make it bud exactly in that spot but I would imagine you would get one around there. Once you have a leader that needs to grow strongly then you have to keep all other branches in check by trimming until you get the growth you desire from the new leader
 

NaturalArt

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No way to make it bud exactly in that spot but I would imagine you would get one around there. Once you have a leader that needs to grow strongly then you have to keep all other branches in check by trimming until you get the growth you desire from the new leader

@Maloghurst Thank you! I will do that. I was going to re-pot it in a regular 6" training pot (deep, not flat) for the next 1-2 years while the leader grows out. Unless you think it would be better to pot in a bonsai training pot?
 

NaturalArt

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He was ready to be chopped before I was ready to chop him. Buds are starting to swell and a few have popped already. Let's see what happens!IMG_20190217_092733.jpgIMG_20190217_092829.jpg
 

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ConorDash

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This is cool, I wouldn’t mind having it. I like these little “no expectation” pieces. But this really could be a cool great looking little tree.
 

NaturalArt

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This is cool, I wouldn’t mind having it. I like these little “no expectation” pieces. But this really could be a cool great looking little tree.

@ConorDash Thank you! I figure in time it will either make a nice tree or it won't. Either way, no harm no foul. No matter what it is going to be a fun project and learning experience, and I'll keep this thread updated along the way!

Z
 
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