Chinese tourniquet nebari development

Hawke84

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So I'm after some advice on tourniquet Method For Developing Nebari. Xanthoxylum piperitum which I think is from an air layer which originally failed and was recut hence the lower swelling (thats just a guess)

My plan is to wrap the tourniquet just below the original swelling and hopefully develop roots out of it.

I've not done the tourniquet method before, only regular air layering and i wanted to check my understand on using this method for root development.

1) Do I need to lower the tree in the pot or just cover the new roots with sphagnum moss while they develop?
2) is it an idea to use something like a CD to allow the roots to continually develop radially?
3) do you cut into the bark at when applying a tourniquet?

20200311_175046.jpg
 

MrWunderful

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1) The new roots should be in whatever substrate you are using as soil, so do whatever you need to do to make that happen.

2) That is up to you. A CD will help, but is not needed.

3)no, that would be an air-layer (if you removed the ring of bark)
 

Hawke84

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1) The new roots should be in whatever substrate you are using as soil, so do whatever you need to do to make that happen.

2) That is up to you. A CD will help, but is not needed.

3)no, that would be an air-layer (if you removed the ring of bark)
great thank you. is the timing same as air layering or does it not matter as its only a restriction? its a subtropical tree so currently protected indoors and its in active growth
 

MrWunderful

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great thank you. is the timing same as air layering or does it not matter as its only a restriction? its a subtropical tree so currently protected indoors and its in active growth
You can tourniquet anytime, it will only be effective when the tree is actively growing. The tree needs to put on as much wood as possible, to allow the tourniquet to pinch the cambium (or xylem?) enough to where the tree cannot send enough resources to the roots, so roots pop out above the tourniquet.
Here, mid winter is a great time to do it to maximize thickening.

I would separate the following year.
 

Mellow Mullet

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I have done the technique on elm and zelcova, both did fine. You have to make sure that the wire is very tight, if it is not, it won't work. After I put the tourniquet on, I added some mesh around the trunk to raise the soil level a couple of inches above the wire. Skip the CD or board until you separate the layer, then use either to keep the roots flat. Here's an article w/pictures
from my site on the elm : http://www.heartofdixiebonsai.com/c...9-blog-post/52-making-an-elm-broom?Itemid=101 .
 

Shibui

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If you skip removing the ring of bark it will take a bit longer until the tree thickens enough for the wire to restrict sap flow.
I cut a narrow strip of bark- just a fraction wider than the wire - then bed the wire into the groove. The groove stops sap flow and starts rooting. The wire prevents the narrow cut from healing. Removing a ring of bark does not signify air layer. Where it is on the tree is where the name comes from. Air layer is above ground. Ground layer is at or under ground level. Method for both can be the same.

Build up the soil over the layered area enough to maintain moist conditions. Mesh fence or bottomless plastic pot are 2 oft used methods.

No need for a CD or board. layers almost always put out horizontal roots. Horizontal layered roots usually stay that way for years without and boards, etc.
 

Hawke84

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thanks all. hopefully update in 12 months with a bit of progress :)
 

Tieball

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Curiosity.....why don’t you just do a proper ground layering? Cut right at...just above that current failure line....right at the swelling but above the failure line.....and then below it for about 2.5cm. Clean carefully and fully....won’t work if you don’t. I’ve done this before....but used organic (crushed pine bark fines) closest to the trunk so it stays moist. A substrate would not stay moist enough for a long enough time. No wire. I did raise the soil level to properly cover the new rooting area....which is the right end result. Worked well for me.
 

Mellow Mullet

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OH MAN.... awesome!!! Love seeing the process.
Need to take sometime and really comb through but was the plywood screwed directly to the bottom of the tree?


I don't know what you mean, before or after. There was not board or wire affixed to the tree after the wire was applied, it was just planted deep in a pot with some mesh added to increase the height of the soil. Later, after I severed the old base off, a plastic Ikea cutting board was screwed directly to the bottom of the trunk. I have a picture from this year that I took at repotting that I will post tomorrow, working midnights tonight.
 

Hack Yeah!

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@Hawke84 , I'm not certain but your tree could be the result of a successfull airlayer and that's just contrast in the newer bark you are seeing
 
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