Cleaning mineral deposites off pots...wow!!

ABCarve

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This is a method I just stumbled onto for cleaning pots quickly without damaging the surface. The foot of this pot was caked as you can see. The tool is a 3M Scotch-Brite radial bristle disc with a Foredom flex-shaft that I got from Foredom. https://www.foredom.net/product-cat...cotch-brite-radial-bristle-discs-end-brushes/ I've used these for all sorts of thing for sanding woodcarving but this is the first time I tried using on a pot. It not only removes the mineral deposite but polishes the surface. The before and after took approximately two minutes. You do need a variable speed device as the bristle brushes can't take high RPMs.

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sorce

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Wow! That's the best part of that pot!

Nice.


Sorce
 

ABCarve

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There's a difference between patina and caked on lime scale. They are not the same thing.

It looks like the feet you cleaned still match the color of the rest of the pot. Which means you didn't remove the patina.
Maybe we should start one of those patina threads 😱😱😱😱😱😱
 

Pitoon

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There's a difference between patina and caked on lime scale. They are not the same thing.

It looks like the feet you cleaned still match the color of the rest of the pot. Which means you didn't remove the patina.
Interesting that you mention that. I wonder after how many years can one start to actually see patina develop on pots that they look at every day left outside in the elements.
 

sorce

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that they look at

It's the handling that creates patina.

You can look at them forever and never get patina.

People wash their hands and wear gloves too much nowadays. The patina that took 200 years to develop on a pot will take 400 years now!

Handle em!

Dirty.

Sorce
 

ABCarve

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I would recommend that you take a photo of your pot every spring to document the process. Ultra time lapse could be quite interesting.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Yikes, a patina thread!!!!
For those new to bonsai, patina is a general change in color of the pot, due to a layer of ????, who knows exactly what, oils from hands, sun, some "dirt", some minerals from the water inside the pot and outside the pot wicking up or through, minerals deposited by pollution in the rain, slow oxidation of pigments in the clay, and probably the most important, UV photo-degradation of of the pigments in the glaze and the surface of the pot. There are many ingredients that go into patina.

Key is the mineral deposits are cleaned off the pot every year, or at least regularly, and not allowed to get heavy, or caked on. The patina is an "all over" effect, it is more pronounced at edges, but it happens all over the pot. Dirt and grime and caked on minerals tend to happen on the feet, or base of the pot, and at the top rim or inside the rim of the pot depending on the average level of soil.

Dirt, grime and caked on minerals need to be cleaned regularly. The above trick looks great. The conventional, is to use a "scrubbie" that is soft enough to be safe for teflon, and vinegar, and scrub the caked on minerals off. If mineralization is bad, burying the pot in moist Canadian peat for a year can often remove the hard water minerals. While buried in peat, (due this outdoors) letting rain water run through the peat will help remove the hard water scale.

I don't know enough to go into all the details of patina, but I hope this helps distinguish patina from simple mineral build up from hard water. Hard water scale needs to be removed. Patina should be allowed to stay, as it adds value to the pot.

I don't have photos to demonstrate. But many when they come from the kiln are bright white, bright yellow, bright blue, bright red, all these sorts of bright colors, when you see photos of pots made with the same glazes, that have 100 years of age on them, the colors are no longer bright, often the colors have become quite subdued. That is the effect of patina.
 

Gene Deci

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This is a method I just stumbled onto for cleaning pots quickly without damaging the surface. The foot of this pot was caked as you can see. The tool is a 3M Scotch-Brite radial bristle disc with a Foredom flex-shaft that I got from Foredom. https://www.foredom.net/product-cat...cotch-brite-radial-bristle-discs-end-brushes/ I've used these for all sorts of thing for sanding woodcarving but this is the first time I tried using on a pot. It not only removes the mineral deposite but polishes the surface. The before and after took approximately two minutes. You do need a variable speed device as the bristle brushes can't take high RPMs.

View attachment 303783View attachment 303784View attachment 303785
Can you use it in an electric drill?'
 

Paradox

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@ABCarve If I am reading the web page correctly, you used discs that are equivalent to 120 grit sandpaper to clean the pots?
 

ABCarve

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@ABCarve If I am reading the web page correctly, you used discs that are equivalent to 120 grit sandpaper to clean the pots?
I did, but I’ve used 80 grit also. However, that grit size is not equivalent to sandpaper. I assume they use that grit scale show how abrasive they are relative to each other. The nice thing is that they come in different diameters to fit in smaller places. The smaller the diameter, the faster the RPM.
 

MrWunderful

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I would have thought that sandpaper would remove the patina as well as the deposit, but if not that is a great technique.
 

ABCarve

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I would have thought that sandpaper would remove the patina as well as the deposit, but if not that is a great technique.
The material it's made from doesn't resemble or act like sandpaper in the least. It's also great for removing the fuzzies after carving deadwood. I've polished suiseki with it as well.
 
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