Clorgan's 2020-2025 azalea entry

[Clorgan]

That bright green looks so nice doesn't it.

It does, such a lovely colour! It's really growing, I'm guessing because I didn't repot.

 

[Clorgan]

@Clorgan Those are gorgeous pots! I'm jealous!

Thanks! Latest one is an Erin pot

 

[Clorgan]

You might consider removing the primary tip when it extends about an inch. That will keep that twig short.

Thanks for the tip, sorry I'm a bit dim, could you pretend I'm an alien and explain again please?

 

[Forsoothe!]

Each cluster of leaves (as they are now a cluster) are arranged along a twig that will elongate into a genuine twig. The stem between the first and second pair of leaves will extend some distance, then the stem between subsequent pairs of leaves will extend, and as the stem between each pair of leaves extend, the distance between the several sets increases. To keep the length of the stem extensions shorter than typical for the type, remove or wound the bud in the axil of the first set of leaves (the primary growth point) when the length of the stem between the first and second set of leaves is desirable.

An alternative method is to cut the stem of the first pair of leaves near the second set of leaves when the internode between the several extending pairs is desirable. (The whole twig will be longer using this method)

These processes are used on extending vegetative growth where there is no large, obvious, flower bud(s). If done on late season growth it will probably preclude a flower bud the following spring on that twig.

 

[Clorgan]

Each cluster of leaves (as they are now a cluster) are arranged along a twig that will elongate into a genuine twig. The stem between the first and second pair of leaves will extend some distance, then the stem between subsequent pairs of leaves will extend, and as the stem between each pair of leaves extend, the distance between the several sets increases. To keep the length of the stem extensions shorter than typical for the type, remove or wound the bud in the axil of the first set of leaves (the primary growth point) when the length of the stem between the first and second set of leaves is desirable.

An alternative method is to cut the stem of the first pair of leaves near the second set of leaves when the internode between the several extending pairs is desirable. (The whole twig will be longer using this method)

These processes are used on extending vegetative growth where there is no large, obvious, flower bud(s). If done on late season growth it will probably preclude a flower bud the following spring on that twig.

Thanks very much for this

 

[Clorgan]

Each cluster of leaves (as they are now a cluster) are arranged along a twig that will elongate into a genuine twig. The stem between the first and second pair of leaves will extend some distance, then the stem between subsequent pairs of leaves will extend, and as the stem between each pair of leaves extend, the distance between the several sets increases. To keep the length of the stem extensions shorter than typical for the type, remove or wound the bud in the axil of the first set of leaves (the primary growth point) when the length of the stem between the first and second set of leaves is desirable.

An alternative method is to cut the stem of the first pair of leaves near the second set of leaves when the internode between the several extending pairs is desirable. (The whole twig will be longer using this method)

These processes are used on extending vegetative growth where there is no large, obvious, flower bud(s). If done on late season growth it will probably preclude a flower bud the following spring on that twig.

So here's it today, tried to get my head around what you mean, but tbh I'm confused I think I get the process, but there's just a lot of leaves going on so it's hard to make sense of what's what!

 

[Harunobu]

Look at the longest shoots you have. That is the only way new shoots grow. You have 1 shoot and all it does is get longer and longer. It could grow new shoots from dormant buds in the axil at the base of the petiole (https://www.enchantedlearning.com/subjects/plants/plant/anatomy.GIF). But an azalea doesn't. It grows a single long shoot and when it stops elongating, it grows a flower bud at the apical tip. Then next year, you get 2 to 8 new shoots from the base of that flower bud.

I don't think it was really necesarry to go in and do anything. But their suggestion was that if you had pinched out the apical tip of the shoots that are now really long, you would have forced it to grow side-branches. For the shorter shoots you have, that would have been completely unnecessary. But I think you can see as well that there would have been some benefit in having the really long shoots you now have in not having grown that long, but have grown wide as well.

You can look at the branches you have right now next spring. They will have lost some of the larger leaves at the base of each shoot. Then you can remove buds that are just too small and not needed. And then look at the longer shoots and see if they can be branches. Then the next step is to make those branches a bit fatter at the base. They will need to taper. So for that, you need sidebranches. So you could prune back the longer shoots next spring.

Some people would have gone in and pruned those long shoots in half, removing half the leaves and thus half the photosynthetic surfurace. I like the idea better of only pinching the tips, removing the apical bud that produces plant hormones that help inhibit the growth of all the auxiliary buds in the axils. Or wait until a later point, like late winter/early spring 20221, and prune back then to encourage back-budding of your branches. That could also be the point to wire your current shoots-then branches. Usually, people wire the shoots to be really horizontal. Naturally, azalea shoots don't grow horizontal. But it does make for a stylized look. There are other options as well besides the horizontal branching and they could be more organic and natural in their design.

 

[bunjin]

I read through your whole thread and I wonder what the plan going forward is? It could be a twin trunk as the split is very close to the base even though the angle is a bit of a problem. Or are you going to do a moyogi and eliminate one of the trunks later on? Or maybe another style?

Going through my archives I came upon Guide to Ceramic Bonsai Containers by Paul Tacktill. In this short article he has a color chart that lists the acceptable pot colors for orange flowers(your cultivar) as either green or blue. I am trying to find a digital copy of this 1989 article and will post the link to this forum if I find it. I am starting to use glazed containers for my azaleas, but the dilemma has always been that they are only in bloom for a short period and the rest of the year a more conservative pot just seems to look better.

 

[Clorgan]

Look at the longest shoots you have. That is the only way new shoots grow. You have 1 shoot and all it does is get longer and longer. It could grow new shoots from dormant buds in the axil at the base of the petiole (https://www.enchantedlearning.com/subjects/plants/plant/anatomy.GIF). But an azalea doesn't. It grows a single long shoot and when it stops elongating, it grows a flower bud at the apical tip. Then next year, you get 2 to 8 new shoots from the base of that flower bud.

I don't think it was really necesarry to go in and do anything. But their suggestion was that if you had pinched out the apical tip of the shoots that are now really long, you would have forced it to grow side-branches. For the shorter shoots you have, that would have been completely unnecessary. But I think you can see as well that there would have been some benefit in having the really long shoots you now have in not having grown that long, but have grown wide as well.

You can look at the branches you have right now next spring. They will have lost some of the larger leaves at the base of each shoot. Then you can remove buds that are just too small and not needed. And then look at the longer shoots and see if they can be branches. Then the next step is to make those branches a bit fatter at the base. They will need to taper. So for that, you need sidebranches. So you could prune back the longer shoots next spring.

Some people would have gone in and pruned those long shoots in half, removing half the leaves and thus half the photosynthetic surfurace. I like the idea better of only pinching the tips, removing the apical bud that produces plant hormones that help inhibit the growth of all the auxiliary buds in the axils. Or wait until a later point, like late winter/early spring 20221, and prune back then to encourage back-budding of your branches. That could also be the point to wire your current shoots-then branches. Usually, people wire the shoots to be really horizontal. Naturally, azalea shoots don't grow horizontal. But it does make for a stylized look. There are other options as well besides the horizontal branching and they could be more organic and natural in their design.

Thanks very much for this - very detailed and helpful! It seems there's a lot to learn with azalea, I'd daftly just assumed new shoots would grow to be honest. I've still got a lot of general horticultural learning to do!

 

[Clorgan]

I read through your whole thread and I wonder what the plan going forward is? It could be a twin trunk as the split is very close to the base even though the angle is a bit of a problem. Or are you going to do a moyogi and eliminate one of the trunks later on? Or maybe another style?

Going through my archives I came upon Guide to Ceramic Bonsai Containers by Paul Tacktill. In this short article he has a color chart that lists the acceptable pot colors for orange flowers(your cultivar) as either green or blue. I am trying to find a digital copy of this 1989 article and will post the link to this forum if I find it. I am starting to use glazed containers for my azaleas, but the dilemma has always been that they are only in bloom for a short period and the rest of the year a more conservative pot just seems to look better.

I'd initially planned on a twin trunk, but I'm not really sure yet to be honest. I think when I repot that may give me a better idea, and I'll have hopefully learned a bit more by then too!

I'd definitely be interested to have a look at that article if you can find it - sounds interesting. I generally prefer the look of unglazed, less 'in your face' pots, but at the same time I can definitely see the appeal of a nice blue or green too. But it's a long time until it'll be in a bonsai pot so I've got a good while to think about it.

 

[bunjin]

I found it and it was reprinted in Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record, Vol 46 No.3. I am waiting to hear from our Adm. to see if I can post scans of it. If not, I will PM you later and will somehow get you a copy of it is still a relevant and definitive reference. That issue was actually in my library because it was mostly about Indoor Bonsai, an interesting topic by itself. Cheers

 

[Clorgan]

I found it and it was reprinted in Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record, Vol 46 No.3. I am waiting to hear from our Adm. to see if I can post scans of it. If not, I will PM you later and will somehow get you a copy of it is still a relevant and definitive reference. That issue was actually in my library because it was mostly about Indoor Bonsai, an interesting topic by itself. Cheers

This is so kind of you - thanks so much for going to the trouble it's really appreciated! Both sound like a great articles which sound to be timeless.

Thanks again, I'll look forward to hearing about it but if it's too much trouble then don't worry yourself

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Hi @Clorgan, If you haven’t had a chance to yet, please to fill out the azalea media (substrate) poll.
My thanks and please disregard this note if you’ve already polled.
Cheers!
DSD sends

 

[Pitoon]

Spring is here and your azalea could be blooming (depending on your location) or starting to leaf out with this season’s flush……it’s time for updates!

I would also like to add at this time we have 3 prizes to award. Many thanks to @Forsoothe! and @Deep Sea Diver for donating. I am also donating a prize as well.

If you are no longer interested in continuing in the Azalea Contest, please let me know so we can close your thread, thanks.

 

[Clorgan]

Spring is here and your azalea could be blooming (depending on your location) or starting to leaf out with this season’s flush……it’s time for updates!

I would also like to add at this time we have 3 prizes to award. Many thanks to @Forsoothe! and @Deep Sea Diver for donating. I am also donating a prize as well.

If you are no longer interested in continuing in the Azalea Contest, please let me know so we can close your thread, thanks.

Sorry been meaning to post this for a while but not got round to it. Unfortunately it is no longer with us (RIP) - accident involving an unfortunate fall from height

Possible to replace with this one? Bought in Feb this year, picture from then and now. Took a risky risk and repotted (kanuma and eracenous compost mix due to not enough kanuma ) and hard pruned really early spring as an experiment (paid next to nothing for it) so wasn't sure it'd make it. Still not sure but buds coming though so who knows.

No worries if not allowed but that'll be me out. If it is OK to enter this one and it does die, that'll be me definitely out!

 

[Pitoon]

Sorry been meaning to post this for a while but not got round to it. Unfortunately it is no longer with us (RIP) - accident involving an unfortunate fall from height

Possible to replace with this one? Bought in Feb this year, picture from then and now. Took a risky risk and repotted (kanuma and eracenous compost mix due to not enough kanuma ) and hard pruned really early spring as an experiment (paid next to nothing for it) so wasn't sure it'd make it. Still not sure but buds coming though so who knows.

No worries if not allowed but that'll be me out. If it is OK to enter this one and it does die, that'll be me definitely out!

Sure you can enter this one.

 

[Clorgan]

Sure you can enter this one.

Sweet!

Any thoughts on it? Maybe it's likelihood of survival? It's deciduous which is interesting, still need to research properly.

 

[Pitoon]

It's back budding so we know it's alive. Unfortunately I do not keep deciduous azaleas so I have little to offer. Maybe @Leo in N E Illinois can chime in?

 

[Clorgan]

It's back budding so we know it's alive. Unfortunately I do not keep deciduous azaleas so I have little to offer. Maybe @Leo in N E Illinois can chime in?

A couple of those buds were there before the chop, but yes a fair few new ones have come up, including that green one.

I'm sure I saw a deciduous thread on here ages ago, I'll find that and have a read up

 

[HorseloverFat]

A couple of those buds were there before the chop, but yes a fair few new ones have come up, including that green one.

I'm sure I saw a deciduous thread on here ages ago, I'll find that and have a read up

OL and a group of others (myself included, as soon as my Royal Azalea seeds arrive) have a few open discussions about using/utilizing deciduous Azalea for “TinyTree” ventures..

But I’m not sure EXACTLY where.