Code // Acer P 04// Approach Grafting Opinions

adamjcode

Sapling
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Hi All,

I'm seeking opinions regarding a Japanese maple I have in development. On the proposed back side of the tree, there is a large section of the nebari and base of the trunk that has died back due to a large branch prune above (I've learned the hard way since 2018!).

One path would be to allow 3-5 more years to pass and hope the new tissue will fuse.

Another idea I have is to 1) carve a groove up the center of the deadwood, 2) wound the living tissue and create a notch at the top of the deadwood, and finally 3) approach graft an appropriate-sized seedling into the groove and notch, securing the seedling in place with grafting nails and maybe grafting tape for good measure.

Do you think this could work in the long run? I'm thinking of results in 10 years+ Could the possible fusion look unsightly? Since the tree is somewhat grotesque to begin with, I'm not overly concerned with "ruining" the material. Also - and this isn't to be overlooked - this operation could provide a nice new branch in a location that is otherwise lacking in primary branching. Thoughts?

Thanks! Code

P.S. A little background and commentary for those interested:
  • Origin: Bought field-grown pre-bonsai from Telperion in Fall 2017, and had it shipped to me here in Chicago.
  • Repots: First repot Spring 2018. Second repot Spring 2020 into 100% akadama.
  • Styling: Multiple large but awkward branches were removed in 2017/2018, and large wounds are healing over. A new leader was chosen and there is a substantial wound. This tree was never destined to be the scar-less, flowing traditional Japanese maple aesthetic e.g., that Bjorn is going for in his recent Bonsai U subscription stream (which I also admire, fwiw)
  • Health: Vigorous growth (Biogold+akadama)

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Wires_Guy_wires

Imperial Masterpiece
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I dont think you graft will latch on to the dead wood.
So I propose doing two on either sides of the bare site and a year or two later do one in the center to close the gap.

Another option would be to raise the cutting with the roots partially above the soil and make some kind of Root over deadwood, this might work if the deadwood doesn't rot away.

But wait what the rest tells you. I'm don't own any maples.
 

bwaynef

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I think for best results you're going to need to do a bit of both paths mentioned. The tree needs some unrestricted growth to make sure the dieback has stopped ...but also to help with transitions of taper in the apex. Once the tree is really vigorous the results of the approach graft(s?) are more of a sure thing. I'd consider a threadgraft directly above the dieback in order to draw more resources into that area a little quicker, if you can direct a whip into that area (at the top of the green circle in "Potential Approach Graft" picture).
 

adamjcode

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Thanks for the comments! After more thought, I think my idea of killing three birds (roots, trunk tissue, branch) with one stone (approach graft) is a little too ambitious. While I'm not saying it can't be done, I think I'll leave the large scar to heal over by itself. New tissue has been forming for the last two years or so, and I'm guessing in the next 4-5 years it will be fully fused. If something stops that - which is totally within the realm of possibility - I'll cross that bridge then.

This spring I have decided to do the following: a) "light repot" and/or slip pot into a wooden box, and b) approach graft for new roots at the "other potential graft" sites. The goal for a) is to encourage even more vigorous growth to heal the large scars, and the goal for b) is to eventually fill in the large gap between the two large base roots. In 10 years, I'd love to see a more 360 degree, even, flaring nebari.
 
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