Collected Hornbeam, Carpinus Caroliniana

BobbyLane

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What do you mean?

As I recall this tree is planted with the saw cut flat on the bottom of the white pot anf the nebari is wide, taking up nearly the whole pot.

So its planted deep and I really wanna see what going on in there.....and give it more room to run.....but don't want to set it back.

in which case, letting it 'run' again is just going to create more inverse taper in the trunk? there is a swelling occurring at surface level due to the cluster of branches. damage is done, if was mine i would use the current flair at soil level as the new base.

its a hornbeam you could lift it out anytime to see whats going on. its not gonna die if you break a few root hairs!

Maros's ash is good inspiration for this

DSC_9146.jpg
 

just.wing.it

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in which case, letting it 'run' again is just going to create more inverse taper in the trunk? there is a swelling occurring at surface level due to the cluster of branches. damage is done, if was mine i would use the current flair at soil level as the new base.

its a hornbeam you could lift it out anytime to see whats going on. its not gonna die if you break a few root hairs!

Maros's ash is good inspiration for this

DSC_9146.jpg
I was going to save a few an attempt to graft a branch or two maybe. And the rest of them I was just going to cut them off, I don't know how much inverse taper there really is, I guess I'll have to look.

No doubt I'm sure it got a little bumpy there.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Have you thought about going all the way to the base?

Wondering what people think about that.

I wouldn't normally entertain the idea....
But here it seems why not.

Sorce
I absolutely would not. The beauty of hornbeam is that light bark which develops those vertical fissures over time...lots of time. This tree has that, and is one of the best characteristics of the tree. You’d not likely see that develop on those basal shoots in 20 years in a pot.
 

just.wing.it

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I absolutely would not. The beauty of hornbeam is that light bark which develops those vertical fissures over time...lots of time. This tree has that, and is one of the best characteristics of the tree. You’d not likely see that develop on those basal shoots in 20 years in a pot.
Thanks BVF, I am definitely keeping the trunk and I want to grow out a second section of the trunk as you and @JudyB suggested.

I will take plenty of pics when repotting time comes, and see what's what under the hood.
I hope the root growth is relatively even off of the parts that were left after the butchery.
Still kicking myself for not tamong pics of the collection process.....but it was raining and it was taxing....pics were the last thing on my mind.
 

just.wing.it

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Well, as an essential employee, I haven't had as much time as many to repot... I put in 14 hours yesterday, including over 800 miles of driving and 3 trips to the gas station....but this tree is ready today!

I plan to checkout the nebari, see how the roots have formed since collection and remove a bunch of the lower branches....maybe all of them....but we'll see when I get in there.
I do not plan to remove any roots, and I'll plant it into a larger container to run for a while. The goal is to grow out that next leader.
 

just.wing.it

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Decent roots for one season of growth after being sawed out of the earth.
I only cut back one root....cuz I had to.
New pot is much deeper and wider.
I hope that the leader takes off for the sky this year instead of pushing more low shoots.....we will see.
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just.wing.it

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Maybe I should cut off that last low branch too....its thicker than the new leader....? I thought maybe it could be usable in the future for grafts, but I'm more worried about growing that top leader out.
 

BobbyLane

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Maybe I should cut off that last low branch too....its thicker than the new leader....? I thought maybe it could be usable in the future for grafts, but I'm more worried about growing that top leader out.
depends if you want to incorporate into the design like the tree i showed you above.
 

just.wing.it

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but if it was mine i would probably wire movement into it while i still can.
A bit of movement in potential future subtrunks.....
New leader gaining a head of steam.
After the new leader gets to be about an inch thick or so, I will carve the transition out....and later on, raising the tree to expose the nebari, it will have a much more pleasing image.
20200514_194013.jpg
 

JoeR

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A bit of movement in potential future subtrunks.....
New leader gaining a head of steam.
After the new leader gets to be about an inch thick or so, I will carve the transition out....and later on, raising the tree to expose the nebari, it will have a much more pleasing image.
View attachment 302841
Do you have more gages of wire? I ask because of the way the bottom left branch is wired. I would wire your new apex immediately if its not already too late.. could use some movement. My American hornbeam has been fairly bulletproof, should be a fun tree.
 

just.wing.it

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Do you have more gages of wire? I ask because of the way the bottom left branch is wired. I would wire your new apex immediately if its not already too late.. could use some movement. My American hornbeam has been fairly bulletproof, should be a fun tree.
I decided not to worry about wiring the top because I assume it will be chopped again later on down the line....but your point is well received and I may have a second look at it tonight.
Thanks!
 

just.wing.it

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Today.
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Just thinking about the future and hoping that the whole side of the trunk isn't dead....I'll find out when carving time comes....which will be when the new leader gets to about 3/4" thick or better.

Found this picture online from Harry Harrington.
Hoping to get my tree there someday, the transition looks good to me here, I'd love to see the other side.
Screenshot_2020-05-31-20-16-36.png
 
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