Collected tree

[Krone]

Hey!

I have a couple of questions regarding collecting trees. Have read plenty about it online already, but i would really like some of your input also.

- If i collect a tree and i want to trunk chop it above the branch that is planned to be the new leader, do i plant it into a container (pumice) or i should plant it in the ground (regular soul obviously)?
- Is there any need for the collected tree to have any leaves?
- Can i collect a tree and trunk chop it bellow the last branch (chopped tree would then be without branches) and hope that the new branch will start growing from the trunk?

Thanks!

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

As long as we're not clear what type of tree you're talking about, the answer is: yes.
Or no.
It depends..

 

[Krone]

Deciduous trees. Maple, birch, beech, maybe oak. Have found couple of these in nearby forests.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Should be collected just before growth starts. Likely no leaves present at this time. Considering collection is one great insult, Insult #2 by cutting back might be bad idea. Allow tree to grow/strengthen for at least first year IMHO. When STRONG can cut back.

 

[Krone]

Was afraid of that. So i am basically too late for collecting this year? :/ . But, when i collect, is there any reason that i would plant it back in the ground?

@Potawatomi13 Why considering collection is one great insult ?

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

First insult is hacking the roots via cutting or spading them.
Second insult is cutting the trunk back which forces the tree to both grow roots and leaves.
I tend to think on vigorous trees, you should be able to do both, because new leaves usually equal new roots, being careful of which species you can do what sort of rooting to.
Maple is the only easy one there

Charles

 

[Krone]

Ok. So the best and the safest way is, 1st year - collect the tree and plant it into pumice, 2nd year - do the trunk chop / heavy pruning if i understand correctly?

 

[Shibui]

Ok. So the best and the safest way is, 1st year - collect the tree and plant it into pumice, 2nd year - do the trunk chop / heavy pruning if i understand correctly?

Correct, but I think that should be qualified with it depends how large the upper part is and how many roots are left after digging. If it has loads of branches you may need to remove some to help it. Leaves can help get new roots started but too many leaves without roots will stress the whole tree as it re-establishes.

Some people do it the other way round - trunk chop on site then collect the following spring after the new shoots have grown a bit. If it doesn't sprout new shoots on the trunk it is not worth collecting.

I would collect and cut back a maple in one go as Kiwi Plant Guy says, they are strong and I have not had any trouble doing that here (garden grown trees only though)

 

[Krone]

Was thinking about trunk chopping it on the site and waiting for another year, but considering the location, there is a high chance that tree will get destroyed following year (they are repairing the road and the tree is growing close to the road). Another one already have marks of animals grinding their horns on the trunk, so...

Thanks for all the info.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

As for oaks, there's a lot of copied info about summer collecting. But that failed every time I tried it. Spring works best for me, especially when they're still fully dormant.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Collecting trees is a species by species issue. Every species has its own requirements. But there are some generalizations.

Oaks, treat them as ''unique'' in their requirements from most species. Oaks are well known to be difficult to collect, that collection success is significantly less than 100%., for many like myself 25% success is doing good.

Elms, maples, Malus, Prunus, and most of the more vigorous, easy to grow deciduous trees. Best time to collect is before the leaves sprout in spring. As soon as the ground thaws enough to get a shovel in the soil. I collect and do the drastic pruning all at once, same day. The ''trunk chop'' is done when I collect. Then the trees are planted in a grow out box or container as small as practical, and allow to recover for one or two years before any further pruning. Before leaves appear is my most successful period for collecting deciduous trees.

I have collected deciduous after the summer solstice, usually in July. Note in my climate, the summers are cool, rarely do I have temperatures over 30 C. This will not work as well for those with long hot summers. I have collected elms and other deciduous by digging, and doing my severe pruning, trunk chopping, and then completely defoliate the tree. Pot the defoliated trunk up, and keep moist. Usually within 4 to 6 weeks buds will grow, and if done in July, the new growth will have time to harden off before first frost. Give these trees extra protection from winter cold, as new growth might not acquire the cold resistance it needs to get through the winter. Second growing season it should also be allowed to grow freely to fully re-establish the tree. Success rate is moderate, for me about 40 to 50 % success. But it is an alternate time and method for collecting.

 

[Krone]

Thanks! I think i will avoid oaks for now. Do you plant them in 100% pumice or some other mix?

 

[Housguy]

I plant my collected trees in a mix of mostly pumice and a little lava rock. That has worked well for me.

 

[rockm]

Thanks! I think i will avoid oaks for now. Do you plant them in 100% pumice or some other mix?

Depends on the oak. I wouldn't use straight pumice for an eastern U.S. forest oak (which are probably the rough equivalent of what you're digging up in Slovenia), or a southern live oak. California oaks are different, as they evolved in a drier, more Mediterranean climate...Might use a leaner mix for those, but I've not collected a Cali oak.

I'd use a bonsai mix with some organic ingredients--aged sifted pine bark for instance, 10-20 percent with inorganic stuff such as pumice, haydite, etc. along with some large grained sand (swimming pool filter sand works very well if you can get it) or crushed stone (chicken grit)

 

[Krone]

So, yesterday i have digged up two beech trees. I know, they aren't great, but i need something so i can learn.
I left some of the original soil on the roots, especially around smaller roots and then i have planted the trees in to the pumice.

I planned to trunk chop one and leave the other one with the main trunk for this year (wanted to compare the results), but i've got overly excited and i trunk chopped both of them.

I would like to know if i need to seal the wounds and if there is any reason that i would put my trees in greenhouse (polyvinyl), currently home for tomatoes. A
lso, i am not quite sure how is it with fertilising?

Thanks for all the answers!

 

[Shibui]

Most young trees transplant better than older ones so you should have a good chance with these.
I don't bother with sealing small cuts or when further cuts will be made. Sealing does not help trees survive. It does help the wound to close quicker so used mostly for aesthetic reasons - to make the cut heal and look better quickly.
We don't get really cold here so I do not bother putting new trees in the greenhouse. That will later cause more difficulty when you want to move them outside into sun. Unless you expect real freezing they can go outside and wake up normally as the temps increase.
I knoe many diggers try to retain original soil round the roots of collected trees but I have better success when most of the field soil is shaken off. There can be problems with the difference between very open pumice and water retaining soil in a pot so be a bit careful with watering but make sure they get enough. As leaves open up there is an increased need for water.
Most delay fertiliser until roots have started to grow. My mix has controlled release osmocote so trees get some fert after the first couple of waterings and it does not seem to cause any hardship. Probably worth holding off on additional liquid fert until the new leaves have opened and new roots started.

Good luck with the new beeches.