Collecting California Juniper with JC

jquast

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Hey Bonsai Friends,

I just wanted to share a couple of notes on the recovery of collected Cal Junipers. At some point, the tree might do a needle drop where some needles yellow, dry up and fall off, while others will get very green. At first you might panic and think that your tree is dying but fear not this is actually a good sign. DO NOT START MOVING, FERTILIZING AND MESSING WITH THE PLANT BECAUSE YOU MIGHT KILL IT!


JC

JC,

I collected three last year and noticed the same behavior listed above with one of them as well. It had quite a bit of foliage on it and recently began to turn yellow and drop. The interior foliage that is in the crotches and closer to the trunk have greened up and are showing juvenile growth. This one had the least amount of roots collected while the other two that had a fair amount of roots and those are showing growth all over.

jeff
 

Dwight

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JC , while the trees are still in the green house , do you occasionally untie the pot wrapping and water the pots ? Or does the humidity make this unnecessary ?
 
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All right kids gather 'round, as requested, I have pics and follow up on the California Junipers that I collected on March 10, 2010. As previously mentioned, the trees are beginning to pop out all over the place (that's a good sign)! The pics that I have taken hopefully show the juvenile foliage at the tips of the older foliage - notice how spiky they are.

Now, the mistake would be to start moving the plants around, get all excited and show the plants to my friends. What I do at this point is let the plants continue to grow out, start giving them mild fertilizer and gradually move them out of the greenhouse. DO NOT START TO GLOAT YET! If you do, the bonsai gods will punish you, so you must stay humble!

Dwight asked how I water the plants in the greenhouse. Since I have plastic over the pot, I let the water that runs down the trunk when I wet the foliage or when the foliage is automatically watered rehydrate the soil. The covered pot really doesn't need direct watering but I check anyway and I think I did water the pots once.

The next step in the process is to get the trees out into the yard and into the general population. And within a year of that, I'll start the process of grafting Shimpaku onto the trunks - stay tuned.
 

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Attila Soos

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... the trees are beginning to pop out all over the place (that's a good sign)! The pics that I have taken hopefully show the juvenile foliage at the tips of the older foliage - notice how spiky they are.

I know the feeling of excitement when the spiky tips start to pop out. But you are right, this is a very delicate balance in the tree's life. I would be afraid to move the pots around, or even touch the tree at this point. Just silently cross my fingers and don't change anything.
 

Bill S

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Been there, didn't realize that they were as sensative at this point, next time I try I'll be better off for reading this me thinks. Looking good JC, hope the coniferous gods are with you, but you have an in now don't you.;)
 

Dwight

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Thanks JC. Those little spikes look kinda wierd being where you expect to see swollen growth tips. How about a little Hollywood time progression and continue your discoprse with last years trees ? You do have some " last years trees " don't you.
 
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Ask and ye shall receive! Dwight asked for pics of trees I dug last year and so I snapped a few to show their progress. The trees in the pics are all in the process of having Shimpaku grafted onto them so it's a bit difficult to see the trunks. I'm guessing I'll cut the wires on the grafts by the end of summer and I'll remove the 4 inch pots early next year. After that, we let the Shimpaku take over and we begin styling. I guess that means someone will have to start a Shimpaku styling thread.

Anyway, I'll try to post updates of the trees as they progress. Stay tuned, I have a second batch of trees that I'm hoping will make it, but you never know in the wacky world of Yamadori.

JC
 

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...more pics...
 

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Here is the front (I think) of one of the trees. Again, the grafted Shimpaku is getting in the way but I love the subtle movement of the tree and the deadwood, if all goes well this should be a very nice tree.

JC
 

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Dwight

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OK , let me get this straight. The trees in the greenhouse ( this years trees ) will in theory be ready for grafting next spring ? Why graft at all if the native foilage is in good shape ? I can understand if the native foilage is stringy or misshapen but I've seen some georgeous callies with their original clothes on.

BTW ..... how many acres does this all take ? Looks like a major production.
 
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Brian Underwood

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WOW. I really need to start collecting... Very nice trees JC. Which method of grafting are you using?
 

Dwight

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Some more questions
1. is there a particular time of year that the trees in the greenhouse are usually ready for fresh air and sunshine ? Or do you go strictly by the growth of nes shoots
2. when do you start fertalizing ?
 

buddhamonk

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Do you have any pictures of the graftin method - I plan on doing that on a RMJ next year. When is the best time for grafting?
 

garywood

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Hey Manny, I'll be at the farm next week and will be there for a few weeks. There are several techniques being used there but now is a good time for an approach on JUNIPER.If you get a chance come down and I'll take you through the process.
Wood
 

Attila Soos

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According to Roy Nagatoshi, the best time to do approach grafting for juniper is winter (January, February). This is when he starts his shimpaku grafts on California Junipers.

But having said that, I think the approach graft is a very safe one, and I would start it any time of the year. The old-timers are more particular about the timing.

One type of graft that I will NOT try again, is thread grafting of shimpaku on California. I tried it once, and after 2 years the graft still didn't take. At the end, one windy day, the pot was knocked off the bench, and both the yamadori, as well as the shimpaku died. Not a big loss, since this was one of the lower quality materials, but the whole thing left a bitter taste in my mouth.
 
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Dwight

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The very last issue of Bonsai Today ( before it becamer bonsai focus ) has a great article about Roy and his approach graft technique. I t6hink it would take a little practice on getting everything lined up but you CAN"T kill either tree with this technique ( well maybe me or Harry could ). I've got a Sea Green juniper in the back yard with a great trunk that I'm thinking of trying this with. I'll probably buy about a dozen little shimps from Roy before I do though. I figure a dozen might give me one or two good grafts and some good practice.

Buddha , why graft a RMJ ? Don't they already have pretty nice foilage. Some callies have downright ugly foilage and they are " delicate " for a juniper so I understand why Roy and JC do it , sorta.
 

buddhamonk

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Hey Manny, I'll be at the farm next week and will be there for a few weeks. There are several techniques being used there but now is a good time for an approach on JUNIPER.If you get a chance come down and I'll take you through the process.
Wood

Hi Gary!

I didn't notice you were also on this forum. I'll take you up on your offer but I'll have to figure out when I can come down because of my work schedule.

Thanks!!!

Dwight - foliage on RMJ looks nice but sometimes it's not in the right spot and too far out. I want to get smaller trees with big fat trunks. I also plan to graft shimpaku on common J. chinensis.

Manny
 
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