Common boxwood taper issue

[Wizeeerrrddd]

I'm thinking these lower bar branches will lead to reverse taper in the next few years.

Theres a new branch coming from the back of the trunk what can replace the position on the left.

When would be the best time to remove this lower branch on left?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Tuesday.

I was being flip, or silly.
Seriously, I would not remove THAT branch, but rather the branch opposite, at the same level on the trunk. The thicker branch on the right, if removed leaves room for the right hand trunk to branch out and spread as the tree develops.

Second reason for removing the thicker of the two helps keep a more "tree like image". Generally, "trunk" portion of the tree should be the largest diameter. Branches, ideally, should be less than 50 % the diameter of the trunk THat gives you a "tree image". If the branch passes 75% the diameter of the trunk, this gives a "shrub" appearance. A key feature of shrubs is the many branches or trunks are all fairly close to the same diameter.

This tree is young. You could keep all the branches for a while, just in an effort to get the trunks to increase in diameter. There is nothing wrong with growing this tree out for a while.

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

Why not Monday?

Thanks for your advise, that is the plan at the moment just let it grow so I can improve my cut and grow methods.
The branch on the right might be the one to go though it is pretty thick compared to the more obvious leader on the left.

I am not totally sure how fast boxwood thicken up, ill be keeping an eye on it. They seem to be able to handle a lot of work done to them though.

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

The top is covered over now to help protect some of the surface roots

 

[Shibui]

Buxus are generally quite slow to thicken. In a small pot that rate will be reduced even further so don't hold too much hope for dramatic increase in girth.

I would also remove the thicker branch. It is already almost as thick as the trunk. Branches tend to look better when they are a bit thinner than the nearby trunk.
Twin trunk also look better when the taller trunk is clearly dominant and thicker than the shorter one. Be aware that leaving lots of foliage and branches on that smaller trunk will increase its rate of thickening. It is easy to overlook trunk diameter increases until it is too late. Keep minor trunks a little more sparse than the main trunk during development stages.

 

[Forsoothe!]

I'll third with the right branch off. And I'd style it as is, the size it is. It ain't going to get significantly bigger in a lifetime in a pot, and not much faster in the ground for that matter. You have nice architecture to work with and should just enjoy refining it and eventually, if you're a youngster, it'll get bigger.

 

[sorce]

Was this repotted recently?

Gotta be careful with what roots want to live and die in that "mound".

I think running a machete over the top lip could slice this to perfection for a shallow pot. Not saying do it ...bit for the future, you mighta coulda.

The branches.....

This is rather difficult because the right is so much better developed than the left.
But the right ain't all that either.

I think the options given are better, but it is still with what is present.

The best tree from this material WILL come from what is not yet present.
IMO, except for education, thinking about using what's present is a waste of time.

This is ones of those trees that should be relegated to the exchange pile, as you WILL find a better box before this is worthy, even if you ain't looking!

Sorce

 

[World Bonsai Police]

You know how I hate to be picky. But, this is as nice of a candidate, -better, than many I see here. Less that right arm, the main structure is already there and while it might be wired & tweaked a little sweeter, it won't take much. In two years it could look pretty nice with foliage, and they're never without foliage so the fine twigging that comes only with years won't be able to be seen that clearly with the typical helmet, anyway. Let the foliage grow into a controlled cloud, and you've got yourself a tree. Some fool might want to con you into trading it for a clumsy pot or something, but don't fall for that!

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

Was this repotted recently?

Gotta be careful with what roots want to live and die in that "mound".

I think running a machete over the top lip could slice this to perfection for a shallow pot. Not saying do it ...bit for the future, you mighta coulda.

This is ones of those trees that should be relegated to the exchange pile, as you WILL find a better box before this is worthy, even if you ain't looking!

Sorce

Repotted in late February, only to reduce the rootball for the pot, akadama was placed around the root ball. The mound is the original soil which will be slowly removed each repot.
The root ball was all feeder roots, did not see any large roots so it was easily reduced without major harm.

Are you saying you wouldnt want them to thicken up on the surface or just slice to perfection for style points?
also this is just a crappy pot I was given for free at a charity shop

I have also already trimmed the edges of the root ball into more of a dome shape mound. I didnt want to remove much more.

As for the exchange pile it would definitely go into it if I had anyone to exchange with.

I'm not in a rush to try thicken the trunk up more I like how it looks at the moment



Working with what is present doesnt seem so bad to me.
I cut it back to this structure so they're only present because of me, it is just continuing a design plan is it not?

Once I have built the structure similar to the picture idea I can then go in and cut back the branches so they all share a similar look in terms of age and bark texture as the tree grows out.
For right now I will develop the longer branches to grow the taper I want.

 

[sorce]

Are you saying you wouldnt want them to thicken up on the surface or just slice to perfection for style points?

Just in regards to what CAN be left. Intentionally not meaning Should be kept, health dependant.....

But if you imagine everything above the pot, that is what should have been potted up only, nothing that is currently in the pot.

This one is on year 3?, not healthy, but aftercare, poor attention to appropriate watering, and other neglect have been commonplace. Seems to be making a turn for the better this year, I hope!

Anywho...

I found it odd, and what I thought was an easy visualization of what actually should be in a pot, setting up above the lip.

Oh the vert...#23...
Nice...Jordan!

Cuz that's a slam dunk!

I would consider building a colander type fence around rim, to raise the entire soil line, because you really do want those roots to live up there.

Then after while you Could just machete the good part off the top!

Sorce

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

I'll see what I can do now, its not a bad idea.

This is it before the repot, the roots where already above the surface and a little dried out when I got it. I tried to keep the healthy ones alive with the sphagnum.

I do like the mound for aesthetic reasons as well though.

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

Let the roots live!

 

[rockm]

this looks like a Buxus Sinica to me. Very tough material. I typically bareroot my boxwood--rinse out all the old soil--at repotting. Leaving that soil can generate big problems over time.

After forcing all the old soil out with a water hose, I chop off the bottom third of the root mass. Then comb out and arrange the remaining roots. Selecting pruning the thicker ones that don't add to the design, etc. Been doing that for years. Haven't had an issue. Boxwood is tough...you're probably wasting a year with that mesh.

 

[Wizeeerrrddd]

this looks like a Buxus Sinica to me. Very tough material. I typically bareroot my boxwood--rinse out all the old soil--at repotting. Leaving that soil can generate big problems over time.
you're probably wasting a year with that mesh.

The old soil was quite fine and loose so it should be fine for another year, i'm hoping it would of grown into the akadama by then.
I can repot then or wait until I see some healthy roots a little higher up in the pot depending on how healthy the tree is and how it has been growing

What substrate do you use for your boxwood?

 

[rockm]

The old soil was quite fine and loose so it should be fine for another year, i'm hoping it would of grown into the akadama by then.
I can repot then or wait until I see some healthy roots a little higher up in the pot depending on how healthy the tree is and how it has been growing

What substrate do you use for your boxwood?

regular bonsai soil. With the field soil in place, the roots will be reluctant to grow past the soil interface with the akadama, since the AK will dry out sooner than the finer interior soil, which is why you get rid of all of that original soil...

 

[DEHattaway]

I personally for the sake of having something decent would just prune off the tip of the large branch back to that second small branch coming out to the right and wait for the back branch to grow and cut the rest of the branch later, who knows you might keep the branch. You can always remove more but you can never put it back.

 

[GSCarlson]

One idea for consideration: