Cork Bark Japanese Black Pine and Needle Reduction

[fredtruck]

This year I decided to try to reduce needles on my Hayabusa cork bark Japanese Black Pine. I cut back all new growth in early June. After cleaning out all old needles, I was amazed at the different direction my design had taken. First, I could see just about everything on the tree. Second, the trunk and branches were much larger in relationship to the foliage than they were previously. This may seem like an obvious thing to say, but I’ve been working with this tree for 6 years. I got used to how it had been.

Other questions raised by needle reduction included the size of the pot. I’ve written a very brief essay that can be quickly downloaded at:

http://www.fredtruck.com/articles/photodistort.pdf

There you can find out why I chose the pot I did and what directions the tree might take in the future.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Hey, those little needles make your trunk look fat!

Did my Kyokko Yatsabusa recently, though less aggressively:

 

[fredtruck]

Yes, the needle reduction does make the trunk look fat. I was very surprised. I like what you're doing with your Kyokko. That's a very nice tree.

 

[fredtruck]

This corker is a Mi Nishiki, started as a cutting in 1998 by Brent. I’ve had it since 2002. As evidenced by this tree, the Mi Nishiki doesn’t form wings of cork as such. Instead, it forms ridges of cork, a process which is still going on. Maybe less spectacular than fully winged corkers, what this tree offers besides cork is an incredible willingness to backbud. Many nishiki types don’t have this capability. This also means that the needles can be reduced significantly. These needles are approximately 1.25” long.

 

[fredtruck]

Finally, we have my upright Ondae Japanese Black Pine. It is a newer cultivar, with wings, that has quite a few things in common with older corticosas. For one thing, it is not a powerful grower. I most likely won’t be able to cut candles on this tree every year, at least in the way I did this year. For another thing, this tree is not really consistent in its responses to manipulation. Whatever I do, parts of the tree will respond well. For the unresponsive parts of the tree, I have to devise work-arounds, hoping that in the long run, everything will even out. I cut the candles on this tree in the middle of June. Needles are now anywhere from 1.25” to 2” long. Some buds did not open, leaving very long needles.

In general, Brian Van Fleet advised me to leave some long needles on each shoot. Then, he added, cut the long old needles just shorter than the new needles. On the buds that didn’t open, but left very long needles, I cut them to match the other old needles I cut.

I have two pictures, one "before" and one "after."

 

[Adair M]

Misting the cut needles will minimize the brown tips. Not eliminate them, but minimize the browning.

Generally speaking, corkers are not as vigorous as "regular" JBP. They spend their energy producing cork rather than growth.

Your trees look better than most I've seen, keep up the good work!

 

[Paul2229]

your trees are sensational!!

In general, Brian Van Fleet advised me to leave some long needles on each shoot......

don't quote me but I believe it is the old needles that control the plants hormones. If you remove ALL the old needles you wont neccesarily kill the tree but it will be weakened and two years from now when you go on holidays and forget to water your pine for a week you might come home to a dead tree.

 

[fredtruck]

I mistyped. I should have said OLD needles. Thanks for the correction.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Another beautiful one, love seeing your trees. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Adair M]

I have removed the old needles on my JBP for the past couple years in the fall. No dead trees for me.