Crabapple Air Layering

karen82

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I just have a few basic questions on air layering crabapples.
First of all, is it a good time of year for it now? (I'm hoping it should be since they are leafed out now with all summer to grow roots).
Secondly, is this a species that does well with layering? I haven't been able to find anything specific to apple trees.
And finally, how big of a branch can I layer? I've read things like up to 1 inch diameter, but of course I'd try for a larger branch if it would be possible.

Also I have access to two different crabappples. One has normal, smooth bark. The other has unusually rough, shaggy bark, even on the smaller branches. I prefer the look of the one with shaggy bark for bonsai, but will the more mature-looking bark affect the success of air layering?
Thanks.
 

BrianBay9

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I have air layered several crab apples when I lived in Wisconsin (Madison area). Typically I started them in April or May, and harvested in August or September. You might be a little late getting started, but you're not too bad, depending on the year. You want lots of roots, and maybe six weeks between when you harvest them and the first hard freeze in your area. Both varieties of your trees should work fine. I've air layered limbs up to 3 inches in diameter. If they make it through the first winter and come out growing strong in the spring, you're all set.
 

karen82

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Thank you! I started two - I'm hoping at least one will take.
 

karen82

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I didn't take any pictures as I was doing it, so that's all I have. They don't look like much, but this is as much for practice as anything else.

5 007.JPG 5 008.JPG
 

BrianBay9

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One piece of advice for your next air layer adventure - try to pick a spot to air layer that gives you some taper in your new trunk line. If possible, avoid starting one that will result in a cylinder all the way up. Save yourself some time developing taper later.
 

karen82

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Thanks. I know I don't have the greatest branches, but that tree just didn't really have any that caught my eye. The second air layering actually looks a little better than it seems in the photo, though.
The other crabapple has some better branches, but it is a very slow growing dwarf crab so I figured I should wait til next year and air layer it at the right time of year. The tree I used is a regular crab and a strong grower so I figure it has a better chance to root well.
 

Saddler

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If you can, prune a couple branches now that you will air layer next year or maybe even in five years. I have about thirty branches I have been pruning for an air layer sometime down the road. A few have been 3 years in development already and will probably be another 3 until I layer them, another year to grow more branches and two years to let the branches grow out and to let the wounds heal before I take the branch. It is nice to be developing pre bonsai long before they require the work of being in a pot. Another advantage (or it seems to be) is that trees in the ground are more forgiving of pruning the wrong branch or making a mistake in the design as they are so vigorous.
 

sorce

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but it is a very slow growing dwarf crab so I figured I should wait til next year and air layer

You are in a decent layer window still.
I doubt the dwarf effects root growth.

I think all my thoughts are here...
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/radialayer™-a-season-saver.17046/

Most important for me....

Preplanning a peek window...
Always a clear container....

Equally important...
Getting the bark off in one piece...
And showing @ColinFraser !
https://www.bonsainut.com/posts/350606/

Sorce
 

Eric Group

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Those small branches with limited potential/movement should just be cuttings. Take a bunch, so you know you will get as many as you need to strike, stick them in perlite and water like crazy. You will be surprised how many root. No need to layer unless it is a large/interesting branch you are really excited about and want to increase the odds.
 

karen82

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This was an old thread - but neither crabapple air layer took.
I unwrapped them and checked them in September, one had bridged, the other had not. I'm not sure how that second branch managed to survive without bridging. I was looking at it again today, the old air-layer site still has no bridging, it's just plain, weathered wood, yet the branch appears to be alive and healthy (though the tree is not yet leafed out).

My reason for bringing this up again, is that those were just practice air layers on a rather boring wild type crabapple. I have another crab that's a much better candidate and was just trying to understand what went wrong with this one before trying again this year.
 

Hack Yeah!

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Bummer they didn't take. Did you use rooting hormone? Keep the medium wet? Maybe cut deeper and wider next time. I'll be interested to hear what others have to say as I've got one that will be ready to layer in 2019.
 

karen82

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I plan to try again this year once it warms up a bit.

Last year I started a little late. I think I cut enough - I didn't use rooting hormone, but will this year. I used damp moss and sealed it up really well under plastic - I know it's better to not have it sealed but I wasn't sure if I'd remember to water it enough. It was still damp when I unwrapped it. I'm just not sure what went wrong. I will take a picture of it once the tree leafs out a little.
 

nrgizerrod

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Did you get to try again?

I plan on trying my first air layer next spring on an crazy crabapple in my yard.
 

karen82

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I didn't try again, the two I did failed. One bridged, the other didn't bridge but died beyond the layering the next year (perhaps it died sooner and didn't show it until then). The moss was still damp.
I tried many cuttings, none of those took either (planted in perlite with hormone powder in a near 100% humidity grow case).
But, I've moved now so no more chances with those trees.
I ended up just buying a seedling I planted at the new house to grow in ground for a few years.
 
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