Crumbly Akadama

[pbrown00]

This is kind of a dumb question, and I'm sure it gets asked frequently, but I have a bag of akadama that is nice and hard when dry, but once you water it, you can smush it pretty easily between your fingers. Is that normal, and would it be safe to pot a tree in it? Is akadama supposed to become crumbly when wet?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

It is absolutely supposed to do that. That is the beauty of akadama.

 

[pbrown00]

It is absolutely supposed to do that. That is the beauty of akadama.

So I don't need to worry about it choking the roots?

 

[Vance Wood]

It's great as long as you think structure doesn't mean anything in the care or future of a tree.

 

[River's Edge]

This is kind of a dumb question, and I'm sure it gets asked frequently, but I have a bag of akadama that is nice and hard when dry, but once you water it, you can smush it pretty easily between your fingers. Is that normal, and would it be safe to pot a tree in it? Is akadama supposed to become crumbly when wet?

Crumbly when wet and crushed! Roots do not constrict akadama. The advice you received was correct. Akadama is perfectly fine for Bonsai and exhibits different characteristics when wet as do many types of bonsai media. The key is how fast does the soil media break down and reduce drainage and air content. So all bonsai mixes need to be monitored to maintain effective root growth.

 

[pbrown00]

Ok! So I probably don't need to worry about the roots being choked unless water just sits on the top instead of sinking through?

 

[GrimLore]

Ok! So I probably don't need to worry about the roots being choked unless water just sits on the top instead of sinking through?

What kind of plants(s) are we talking about? Some do need to dry between watering a bit and that changes the game

Grimmy

 

[pbrown00]

What kind of plants(s) are we talking about? Some do need to dry between watering a bit and that changes the game

Grimmy

Mostly various types of maples and maybe my rooted cuttings of forsythia, mountain hemlock, cotoneaster and coastal redwood.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

So I don't need to worry about it choking the roots?

No, that’s the “magic”of akadama. It’s porous to start with, which allows great air exchange and root growth, and as roots grow and fill the pot, the akadama breaks down a little and holds more moisture to accommodate a greater root mass. Just don’t go digging around in it and it will be fine.

 

[GrimLore]

Mostly various types of maples and maybe my rooted cuttings of forsythia, mountain hemlock, cotoneaster and coastal redwood.

Here most Maples do better with a bit less moisture as they are normally grown out in shaded areas and prone to fungal problems if kept damp. Cotoneaster act the same and the balance in full sun should be just fine. Now I am talking about here, and that is how it works. If you are growing plants in shaded areas and you have a LOT of wind/air movement mileage will vary but honest here it would not work out so good. For example I received a few Serissa that I repotted yesterday. The weakest looking was in a similar substrate and was far to "damp". I changed up the mix and it is looking just fine and will be...

I don't want to start yet another soil wars but it is important to note especially when growing plants I think if you compare your weather to mine you will be able to figure out a happy balance - if not call or PM me and I can explain in detail - THERE is NO perfect substrate suited for all...

Grimmy



Grimmy

 

[Velodog2]

I just began using akadama in a 50/50 mix w pumice a couple years ago and there seems to be something magical about it. I don’t use that word often or lightly, and part of me is waiting for the other shoe to drop, but so far what I’ve planted in it has shown vigor I’ve never seen before, particularly maples. I’ve heard negative things from some authorities in this country, so I’m proceeding cautiously, but really so far, magic. I am going to be careful to not let trees go more than a couple years between repotting, at first however, as the breakdown is disconcerting.

I was speaking with the vendor I purchase from at the dc show a couple weeks ago, expressing my concerns, and he maintained that the breakdown was part of the reason for effectiveness, particularly for deciduous trees, and the addition of pumice made it better for conifers. Time will tell.

 

[Vance Wood]

There is no such thing as magic dirt, unless you have magic beans to go in it. I have tried it and found nothing better than what I have been doing. It's a lot like Super Thrive; a lot of hype, a fan base but no proof of it's magic qualities.

 

[Velodog2]

There is no such thing as magic dirt, unless you have magic beans to go in it. I have tried it and found nothing better than what I have been doing. It's a lot like Super Thrive; a lot of hype, a fan base but no proof of it's magic qualities.

Oh just reporting my experiences. Don’t really believe in magic lol. But more than superthrive there has been an indisputable difference. A Korean hornbeam I’ve been flogging for probably 15 years was put into it this spring and for the first time won’t stop popping new buds after the first flush of growth. Maybe my husbandry was just really shitty before tho, who knows.

 

[MichaelS]

There is no such thing as magic dirt, unless you have magic beans to go in it. I have tried it and found nothing better than what I have been doing. It's a lot like Super Thrive; a lot of hype, a fan base but no proof of it's magic qualities.

The difference Vance is that roots will go through it and not just around it. That makes a big difference when it comes to increase of fine ramification in the roots and hence branches. It need not be used for the first 10 or 20 years but after that you will get fine results by using it correctly. I don't use it because I have my own red clay which is close to identical in quality, but when I run out of that I will fork out the extra $ for my better trees.
This is my local material. There must be tons of the stuff under your feet in volcanic regions in the US.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Here too, the best performancers are all in akadama. Extra hard akadama, for all it matters.
All other inorganics do fine, not bad, but for some reason the akadama works better.

It might be the silicium, the ion exchange, the porosity or just that we've spent so much money on it we unknowingly take better care for them.

 

[M. Frary]

I'll never use kakadama.
There's no need.
My floor dry works just as well.
Higher CEC
Holds moisture just as well.
And the best part, it doesn't break down into muck like kakadama.
Oh. I can also drive 5 miles and get bags of it for $8.00.

 

[Velodog2]

Oooh I’ve never been in a “soil war” (presumably you fling dirt?). But I will take the risk of noting that when evidence contradicts theory, such as having dirt break down is bad, one should generally look more closely at the theory to figure out how it is breaking down itself in a particular instance.

Preferably that is done by positing more theory unless, which is rarely the case, there is actual scientific evidence that something is actually true. Case in point: remember the idea, typically stated as fact, that “sharp” sand caused better root division by literally cutting the tips as they grew? I always chuckled at that fanciful one. It could have been true I suppose, but I seriously doubt anyone had directly observed such lacerations occurring.

 

[Vance Wood]

The theory considered fact was that the Earth was flat: logic, if it were round we would all fall off it. That sounds stupid until you look at it from the other side.

 

[cmeg1]

I liked Akadama ,simply the aeration makes a big difference in the growth of bonsai.
I seem to repot annually,so it really does not benefit me really.
A good volcanic soil of pumice or lava or what have you provides me with a good aerated soil.

 

[Vance Wood]

I liked Akadama ,simply the aeration makes a big difference in the growth of bonsai.
I seem to repot annually,so it really does not benefit me really.
A good volcanic soil of pumice or lava provides me with a good aerated soil.

Aeration is important and remains significant. A problem occurs when the elements in a soil start to break down. This causes the soil to at the least change its structure. Structure determines how well a soil will deal with both air and water. When the structure breaks down the soil will hold more water. The soil could become stale and produce root rot. The circulation of air and water is critical and is determind by a structure that does not become compacted or change significantly over time. SO----if I concoct a soil formula made of things that do not hold their structure over time I am making a soil formula that will eventually become stale and produce root rot. JMHO 60 years in the making