LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
He mentions the date.....May 30th, not fall.
Puppy Mill Bonsai! Hahahaha!This video was painful to watch. I don’t treat any of my pines as harshly as Mr. Chan does. I suppose if I had thousands of trees like he does, I’d just hack away, too!
What he does is ok for creating rough stock, I suppose. But the work I do is done with far more precision, and eye for timing. Mind you I’m only working on a couple dozen trees, and he works on thousands.
What he is doing is the equivalent of running a “puppy mill” of bonsai.
I’d be curious to see how the trees you performed this on have fared over the years. Clearly, the OP tree isn’t doing well.I don’t mean to cause concern here but back about 18 yrs ago when I would visit San Gabriel Nursery (LA) to look at their bonsai all the JBPs had their terminal buds all pinched out about this time of year. I took the same idea home to (then lived in MI) and followed this practice for years constantly developing back budding (with accompaniment needle stripping) to no harm. What works for one may or my not work for all.... just saying...
I agree. If this technique produces superior pines, by now this technique would be mainstream, and well known rather than some obscure approach.I’d be curious to see how the trees you performed this on have fared over the years. Clearly, the OP tree isn’t doing well.
There are lots of outdated, misunderstood, and simply bad horticulture techniques running around out there, even in LA.
Vance, based upon your tree, I would have to say that the results of using that technique are not impressive.Here’s a few shot today. They are left wild this full year with wires removed. detail short needles show from last year and current long.View attachment 261698View attachment 261699View attachment 261700
Agreed, it looks weak from those photos, Vance. It also appears you have not removed buds, which is probably for the best.Vance, based upon your tree, I would have to say that the results of using that technique are not impressive.
Simple.
I really don’t understand why people continue to shoot themselves in the foot when it’s really so easy! (Heck, if I can do it, it’s gotta be easy!)
I believe that it was Master Kimura that made the observation that Americans are too timid to make good bonsai.This video was painful to watch. I don’t treat any of my pines as harshly as Mr. Chan does. I suppose if I had thousands of trees like he does, I’d just hack away, too!
What he does is ok for creating rough stock, I suppose. But the work I do is done with far more precision, and eye for timing. Mind you I’m only working on a couple dozen trees, and he works on thousands.
What he is doing is the equivalent of running a “puppy mill” of bonsai.
Lost me at the first sentence. I must be too timid to read on.I believe that it was Master Kimura that made the observation that Americans are too timid to make good bonsai.
We have described this technique around here for years and still people question it. You can cut the extended candles (shoots) off in early July for JBP, JRP, to get a second flush of growth but this will not yield a second flush of single flush pines like Mugo or Scotts Pine. Removing the shoots on a single flush Pine at the same time will produce an abundance of new buds along bare wood, and along branches that will produce new shorter shoots with shorter needles in the following year. This technique can be followed for three years and then on the fourth year you have to let the tree rest.
You may not be following the OP, who questioned the removal of the JBP BUDS in the fall. This was not a question of summer candle-cutting, or the difference in responses of single- or double-flush pines.I believe that it was Master Kimura that made the observation that Americans are too timid to make good bonsai.
We have described this technique around here for years and still people question it. You can cut the extended candles (shoots) off in early July for JBP, JRP, to get a second flush of growth but this will not yield a second flush of single flush pines like Mugo or Scotts Pine. Removing the shoots on a single flush Pine at the same time will produce an abundance of new buds along bare wood, and along branches that will produce new shorter shoots with shorter needles in the following year. This technique can be followed for three years and then on the fourth year you have to let the tree rest.
Seriously???There you go again, stagnating instead of innovating
Unfortunately, for a tree that’s 42 years old, it’s not very impressive. The goal by that time should be refinement. Not “healthy, and has a plethora of back buds as well as terminal growth and general branch placement”. EVERY tree should have that.Very impressive tree! I assume you have grown it from a seedling.
Although the JNP I have shown is not refined it is healthy and has a plethora of back buds as well as terminal growth and general branch placement.
Again, as you probably have a continual refinement process in tow, the tree I've shown is only in it's 42nd year from seed. Further I never profess to have the knowledge or experience of a master let alone a master of JBP....
I will begin to refine the branches and needle reduction in time.
Wow, the first sentence was pretty clear, why don't you understand that? Your response seems to reflect a bit of animus toward me leaving me to ask what did I do to you? I don't remember posting anything in your direction?Lost me at the first sentence. I must be too timid to read on.
It is a great shame about Warren but I'm interested in how you reacted to the "lesson" at the time, @Adair M? Did you have a quiet word with him outside,for example? I have tutored several student teachers and if they start to teach the 'wrong' thing I've had no choice but to step in.Isn’t it amazing how people can get so confused about something as simple as summer decandling!
I once attended a class on Japanese Black Pine conduced by Warren Hill. It was held in mid-to-late October. He taught to have everyone decandle their JBP then, in mid-October! He said it was the “normal time” to do it! I couldn’t believe what I was hearing! (I actually took the class because I had been told that Warren was teaching that. I didn’t believe it. So, I took the class. And, it was true! He WAS teaching to decandle in October!)
There is a RARELY USED technique to force backbudding on JBP by decandling in the fall. It is a “last, desperate, if this doesn’t work throw the tree away” type of technique! And that is to decandle in the fall like Warren described. The tree won’t have time to produce new shoots before winter. If you’re lucky, it may produce backbuds at the old internodes. And they may, or may not start growing next spring. If they do, it worked. BUT, you can’t decandle them that year. You have to wait a whole another year before you can decandle. Oh, and if you do the fall decandling, don’t pull any needles. The tree needs every thing it’s got to keep living.
I’ve never had to try the fall decandling, but I saw the effects on the trees in that workshop. It nearly killed those trees. One person nearly lost a very nice tree, it took 3 years for her tree to recover!
Don’t do it!
Oh... soon after that workshop, Warren suffered his devastating stroke. In speaking with some of his long time friends, they had noticed that over the previous few years, his memory had been faltering. I suspect he had suffered some minor strokes that caused his memories to get scrambled, much as my mother’s did after her mini-strokes.
Er, no. I did mention that the proper was in summer and he “corrected” me saying that fall was the time to do it, in order to induce back budding in the future!It is a great shame about Warren but I'm interested in how you reacted to the "lesson" at the time, @Adair M? Did you have a quiet word with him outside,for example? I have tutored several student teachers and if they start to teach the 'wrong' thing I've had no choice but to step in.