Damage Control Advice Please

Shogun610

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I had my shade netting off when I went away to work this morning , nice and calm. Then I got home and the wind blew off the shade netting which took out all the trees on a rock for a forest put together, scratched up branches of a collected American beech , wind battered it too.. and broke some fine twigs off my American hornbeam , just after it started budding all over on the twigs. Some leaves were cut in half because they were large and I needed back budding which I got , but now some twigs broke cause of wind.
So I’m asking , what are alternatives that work for shade net that isn’t a sail when we have wind. How can I deal with wind and how significant is that damage or can they be resilient (thought wind strengthened branch’s but this was high high winds, total surprise). Some of my larch in the forest weren’t crushed, but the wind blew them jostling loose so now they’re dropping or unless it’s the wind that dehydrated it. The wind also blew alll top dressing off a newly collected spruce forest.. I cleaned and watered up all the damage and sealed wounds.. replenished blown off soil and top dressing …. Someone offer some advice and what you’re experiences are with shade net / wind and wind damage…please I need a shade alternative for my beeches and hornbeam
 

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Tidal Bonsai

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I dont really have a good answer besides secure the netting better. I use steel fence T-posts and secure the shade cloth with thick zip ties.
 

Nickagainst1

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Can you plant a big shade tree? May take time to solve the problem but can get some thujas or privet or something that grows leggy and fast.. idk just a thought
 

namnhi

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Ask @Smoke He has built quite a few shade structures.
 

Shogun610

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I dont really have a good answer besides secure the netting better. I use steel fence T-posts and secure the shade cloth with thick zip ties.
I was thinking of getting PVC pipe and fitting it to the square footage and using bungee cord to wrap around the top, then use zip ties and rebar to tie it onto the rebar that is hammered into the ground
 

Gabler

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You could also build a wooden shade structure like a trellis or pergola. Wood lattice is relatively cheap, and you can use it like shade netting, provided it’s supported by a sturdy frame.
 

sorce

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Seems like God addressing our recent conversation, He agrees you don't need a shade netting.

I still don't see the need for any of these trees to need shade.
It's clearer, the list of possible things that could happen to make it "seem like" you need shade, and we'll never find a lack of greedy people trying to reinforce those fears by selling you a product, or as Satan goes, recruit others to sell you on something they bought that they never needed so you have it and these dangers that come with it.

So why the shade netting in the first place?

When the scales tip so far, reinforcing the shade netting is like propping up that side of the balance with a rock, which subdues the problems of the shade net sail sure, but the balance isn't achieved.

Sorce
 

LanceMac10

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How does the saying go? "When shade-nets are toppled, God created another universe." ;) :D:D:D:D:D:D
family guy1.gif

This was Mother Nature, however. You can see how busy the "Big Guy" is upstairs......😁

I don't think I would use it here. 40%? I lived in trailers with less of a roof!:(😆😆😆😆😆😆😆

Hornbeams are looking like they need more sun and most conifers need lots of sun. Larch maybe not so much but can deal with it on cool roots.

Sun shouldn't be so strong in your local, I'm a bit north and I'm looking for more sun. Wind? Oh man, that's an issue!! Had lots of problems from wind, even something like throwing a pool umbrella over a tall fence onto a bench! The Columbus day Massacre!!! (happened on said day, that for some reason I had off). Results like yours.

I think too much shade leads to bigger problems like fungal infection and bug infestation. Even a shaded branch on a tree can be dumped by the tree itself if a branch higher becomes to strong......

.......ask me how I know....🤔😏😏😏😏😏😏


As far as whatever damaged occurred, you'll just have to see how it plays out. Watch the weather religiously, and yes, the world seems a much windier place than when I was young.....

.....summers seem cooler for the last few, but it'll be in the 90's here this weekend.....I'll be watering like water is free and time is but a notion....in other words, I'll be home all weekend!!!
 

Shogun610

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How does the saying go? "When shade-nets are toppled, God created another universe." ;) :D:D:D:D:D:D
View attachment 437085

This was Mother Nature, however. You can see how busy the "Big Guy" is upstairs......😁

I don't think I would use it here. 40%? I lived in trailers with less of a roof!:(😆😆😆😆😆😆😆

Hornbeams are looking like they need more sun and most conifers need lots of sun. Larch maybe not so much but can deal with it on cool roots.

Sun shouldn't be so strong in your local, I'm a bit north and I'm looking for more sun. Wind? Oh man, that's an issue!! Had lots of problems from wind, even something like throwing a pool umbrella over a tall fence onto a bench! The Columbus day Massacre!!! (happened on said day, that for some reason I had off). Results like yours.

I think too much shade leads to bigger problems like fungal infection and bug infestation. Even a shaded branch on a tree can be dumped by the tree itself if a branch higher becomes to strong......

.......ask me how I know....🤔😏😏😏😏😏😏


As far as whatever damaged occurred, you'll just have to see how it plays out. Watch the weather religiously, and yes, the world seems a much windier place than when I was young.....

.....summers seem cooler for the last few, but it'll be in the 90's here this weekend.....I'll be watering like water is free and time is but a notion....in other words, I'll be home all weekend!!!
Thanks and @sorce too. Hmmm I guess my modus operandi was the hornbeams and beech were collected near streams and understory, so having a 40% shade would replicate the similar conditions for where they came so I didn’t want to expose to too much sun and risk burning the leaves. Roots are definitely protected and in good draining mix to allow water to pass through just enough.But yes the wind was a bitch and I was all prepared for the thunderstorms but did not anticipate wind as being a factor the day after
 
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Gabler

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the world seems a much windier place than when I was young.....

I’d say the opposite. I used to have a lot of trouble with winds strong enough to knock me over, back when I was learning to walk. Fortunately, the ground also wasn’t so far away back then, either.
 

Gabler

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having a 40% shade would replicate the similar conditions for where they came so I didn’t want to expose to too much sun and risk burning the leaves.

If these trees were collected this spring, then full shade may be in order, since when the buds for this spring set last year, the tree was shaded. Once the roots are established, they should be fine in full sun (albeit with minor sunburns when you first move your beeches into the sun). You don’t want sunburns when the roots are recovering.

Beech trees are both understory and canopy trees. In my experience, they grow in established forests, so they‘re adapted to low light conditions. They don’t shoot straight up towards the light. They take their time growing with branches in proportion to trunk for a decade or two, until they eventually reach direct sunlight. At that point, they send out suckers and take over any time another nearby tree falls. They play the long game in eventually dominating a forest. Ironwood trees, what you heathens call “American hornbeam,” are fully understory trees, but for some reason, which I have yet to discern, they have no trouble at all with full sun in bonsai cultivation.
 

Shogun610

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If these trees were collected this spring, then full shade may be in order, since when the buds for this spring set last year, the tree was shaded. Once the roots are established, they should be fine in full sun (albeit with minor sunburns when you first move your beeches into the sun). You don’t want sunburns when the roots are recovering.

Beech trees are both understory and canopy trees. In my experience, they grow in established forests, so they‘re adapted to low light conditions. They don’t shoot straight up towards the light. They take their time growing with branches in proportion to trunk for a decade or two, until they eventually reach direct sunlight. At that point, they send out suckers and take over any time another nearby tree falls. They play the long game in eventually dominating a forest. Ironwood trees, what you heathens call “American hornbeam,” are fully understory trees, but for some reason, which I have yet to discern, they have no trouble at all with full sun in bonsai cultivation.
Thanks for the added context , most of the specimens were collected this year so that’s why I wanted a shade net. But did not use it until recently to get more buds popping , which worked, now I just don’t want to scorch the roots or leaves. I’ll play around w why I can and update the threads accordingly, the nicer A Hornbeam was not collected this year so perhaps I don’t need to shade that.. but yeah mainly was about shade netting from not blowing away and what to build terms of stronger structure. Also the larch was dehydrated it seems that the shade net slapping it around thankfully didn’t dislodge it from the container it was wired into.
 

penumbra

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If you are using a shade cloth, you just need to work out properly securing it. There are millions of them in use everywhere.
Very sorry for your damage. I had several ruined by a weeping cherry blow up in strong wind. Tree had no problems and was planted 33 years ago, it was just a freak wind.
 
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