Day one leaves shriveled up. Brussel's Kotohime. Help!

Messages
71
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
USDA Zone
6b
Update/New Concerns:

So I've been keeping this tree in partial shade per everyone's instructions. I also pulled off many of the shriveled brown leaves that would fall off when touched, but not the ones that seem attached when minimal force is applied. I have no idea whether I should have done this, which brings me to my new concern. The buds seem to be popping and new leaves are growing. Is this a hail Mary life-saving effort on the part of the tree? My concern is because it is so late in the year - the beginning of autumn - that this does not bode well. I've attached two pictures so that you all know what I mean. My relationship with this tree is a comedy of errors. Thus, I appeal once again to the wisdom of this hallowed community. Any advice and/or knowledge shared is appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • 20180930_143600.jpg
    20180930_143600.jpg
    130.8 KB · Views: 51
  • 20180930_143612.jpg
    20180930_143612.jpg
    172.1 KB · Views: 52

just.wing.it

Deadwood Head
Messages
12,141
Reaction score
17,549
Location
Just South of the Mason Dixon
USDA Zone
6B
Okay, what effect will that specifically have? I want to learn the reasoning behind it's just so I also enrich my totally novice level-understanding.
To be honest, I have had a million problems with maples and I'm probably the worst person to give advice on deciduous tree in general.
But...I have 3 maples right now, all of them have been in my possession for 2+ years.
They all were having what I took as leaf burn from too much sun, after I moved to a new house in June, and the new benches are in the heat of the day, when at my old place, they only saw morning sun....

I've moved them to under the back deck in shade after the new growth got burned, then the second set of leaves got killed with Black Spot Fungus...then after defoliation and a heavy Daconil dose.... they are doing better under there....but we'll see...
 

ysrgrathe

Shohin
Messages
433
Reaction score
523
Location
CA
USDA Zone
9b
I used to live in Pittsburgh! You have a decent club there, if you aren't a member I'd consider joining to get some local advice. Pittsburgh weather can be pretty nice through the end of October. If this were me, I would harden off the new growth and get it into full sun. (NOT 100% shade to 100% sun -- you want to give the leaves time to adjust over a week or so) The idea here is to let the tree recover as much energy as possible -- it just used up a ton to grow those leaves and it needs reserves to grow buds for next year. Since that tree came from the south it probably got very confused about defoliation and thinks it still has 2-3 months to grow.

@just.wing.it I wouldn't put it in shade at this point -- probably the old leaves have either kicked the bucket or recovered at this point, so just harden it off and get as much sun as it can take.

Try to keep it from frost -- you'll likely need to move it in and out multiple times but if the weather cooperates you can likely get another solid month of growth in. Also, keep it from wind if at all possible -- Kotohime can take full sun, but not sun + wind.
 

ysrgrathe

Shohin
Messages
433
Reaction score
523
Location
CA
USDA Zone
9b
For comparison I brought this air layer from PA to CA after it had entered dormancy. Unfortunately despite zero chilling hours when it entered the warmer CA climate it budded out! I was very concerned that it wouldn't have enough energy to form leaves the next year, but it ended up growing well. Hopefully your experience will be similar.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20171001_171902.jpg
    IMG_20171001_171902.jpg
    426.1 KB · Views: 46
Messages
71
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
USDA Zone
6b
For comparison I brought this air layer from PA to CA after it had entered dormancy. Unfortunately despite zero chilling hours when it entered the warmer CA climate it budded out! I was very concerned that it wouldn't have enough energy to form leaves the next year, but it ended up growing well. Hopefully your experience will be similar.
Thank you. This is very useful information. I went out this morning and moved it into less shade. The concept of energy recovery is clicking with me. Despite vigorous googling/reading/forum browsing, I still have very little knowledge about growing trees. For this reason, the Pittsburgh Bonsai Society is the obvious next step. I'm hesitant only because of my aversion to social situations, hah. It's only 20 minutes by car, so I feel foolish not joining. I think if it turns out that most of my trees make it through this first winter, I'll have enough motivation to join. I've already written the kotohime off, but I have 2 trident and 2 amur maples of similar size that I bought in late summer as well. I do appreciate your assistance in these very early days of my efforts.
 

Vin

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,257
Reaction score
7,645
Location
Panama City, FL Zone 9a/8b Centr
USDA Zone
8b
Okay, first thing is don't pull the leaves off as you could damage the emerging or dormant bud. Cut the stem leaving about a 1/2" and it will fall off naturally. JM's are understory trees so dappled shade is where they are most comfortable. I would just leave it alone and let nature do its thing. Sometimes things like this just happen but it will be fine as long as you don't over or under water it. By the way, I grew up in East Pittsburgh/Turtle Creek.
 
Messages
71
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
USDA Zone
6b
Okay, first thing is don't pull the leaves off as you could damage the emerging or dormant bud. Cut the stem leaving about a 1/2" and it will fall off naturally. JM's are understory trees so dappled shade is where they are most comfortable. I would just leave it alone and let nature do its thing. Sometimes things like this just happen but it will be fine as long as you don't over or under water it. By the way, I grew up in East Pittsburgh/Turtle Creek.
Very good. Hopefully it will pull through, in that case. Thank you for the reassurance and new information. Did you grow any bonsai in Turtle Creek? I'm quite familiar with the area, as I am in Penn Hills.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vin

Vin

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,257
Reaction score
7,645
Location
Panama City, FL Zone 9a/8b Centr
USDA Zone
8b
Very good. Hopefully it will pull through, in that case. Thank you for the reassurance and new information. Did you grow any bonsai in Turtle Creek? I'm quite familiar with the area, as I am in Penn Hills.
No, I left 2 days after I graduated from High School to join the Air Force.
 

Cable

Omono
Messages
1,371
Reaction score
2,189
Location
Sheffield Village, Ohio
USDA Zone
6a
I don't know that I've had one do a new flush this late but the worst that should happen is the new growth dies back once the frost hits. Let it do its thing, the tree is trying to gather energy for dormancy.
 

WNC Bonsai

Omono
Messages
1,899
Reaction score
2,159
Location
Western NC
USDA Zone
7b
Go to youtube and view the most recent Heron’s Bonsai video on maples. I think he addresses part of your problem.
 
Messages
71
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
USDA Zone
6b
Go to youtube and view the most recent Heron’s Bonsai video on maples. I think he addresses part of your problem.
Thank you, Cofga. I do think the cause was the same as in his video. Perhaps it was grown in the greenhouse the leaves weren't hardened for direct sunlight.
 
Messages
71
Reaction score
22
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
USDA Zone
6b
Fall colors on the rebounded leaves. Thought I'd share, so that even if this one doesn't make it through the winter, it can still be enjoyed. Thanks again everyone for your input and wisdom.
 

Attachments

  • 20181021_120759.jpg
    20181021_120759.jpg
    282 KB · Views: 18
Top Bottom