Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
An apex is just another pad/branch, it just happens to be the top one. Make sure it is situated correctly for the right visual effect.
Well... not exactly. I like to think of the apex as being a little broom style tree sitting on top.An apex is just another pad/branch, it just happens to be the top one. Make sure it is situated correctly for the right visual effect.
An apex is just another pad/branch, it just happens to be the top one. Make sure it is situated correctly for the right visual effect.
Potato, potato.Well... not exactly. I like to think of the apex as being a little broom style tree sitting on top.
The Irish potato approach involves three small branches curving in a circle to create a central pad. Wire flat,Potato, potato.
Nice beginnings. I too recommend finishing all wiring before placing branches, then working from. bottom to top for placement. Wire branchlets flat to form shape of pad outline in the first instance. Initial result is not as pleasing but the end result requires less re placement.Thanks for the tips guys. Now all I need to do is work out how to do it with the trees. Looking at the photos I need lots more shoots that can be wired around to fill the spaces.
In the meantime more wiring. There's now nearly enough copper on these trees to electrify a small village.
red pine
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The taller JBP fully wired
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I also decided it was time to take the sacrifice branches off a smaller JBP and make a start on branching.
before:
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After removing 2 sacrifice branches
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and wired up.
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I think the apex will move a bit as it develops. I've wired a branch up in preparation for removing the current apex in a year or 2 maybe.
A picture would help us understand what is happening Charles.
I decandle (or de-shoot as someone pointed out earlier) from mid December through to Christmas. That leaves plenty of time for the new shoots to grow, open and harden before winter stops growth. Your climate should be fairly similar, maybe even a bit warmer depending which part of NZ so the timing should be good.
It is definitely possible that the tree is pouring all resources into the sacrifice branch and essentially giving up on the lover part that something keeps eating. Most trees aim to be the tallest in the forest so it makes sense for them to pour resources into the higher parts that are growing best.
Last year I reduced fertiliser a little too much before decandling an had a very poor response. The trees do need to be fed well and healthy before the stress of decandling. We've noticed that feeding through winter and spring can give extra boost to pines that are developing.
The last JBP above had a strong sacrifice branch and responded well to decandling the rest of the tree. I did lower the branch a little so it was not quite so dominant when I started decandling the other branches a couple of years ago. You haven't mentioned whether your branch is above or below which could be a clue.
I'm hoping that as long as you have viable buds you can still get growth where you need it but you may need to remove the sacrifice branch or lower it to convince your tree to send resources to the bits you want to keep.
Let's see what it look like as there may be clues you have not thought to mention.
Now I am a bit confused. The new shoots on that pine seem perfect. 1.5 cm of new shoot is just what you want to get after decandling. Longer shoots would blow an established bonsai way out of proportion every year.
The needles on those new shoot are also an excellent result. Your mature pine bonsai needs short needles to give good proportion.
I think I can see a couple of branches where only one new shoot grew. That's not desirable from a ramification perspective but also not unusual if not fed enough or, in this case, where most of the effort is going into a high sacrifice branch.
I cannot see evidence of previous decandling on the shoot you've showed. maybe the prevous attempt was another tree? Somewhere else on this tree?
You also mention bending but I can't see any bends either. Maybe hidden by all the needles?
I understand if this is just a trial of decandling but this tree is nowhere near ready for decandling technique yet IMHO I would still be allowing free growth for a couple of years at a time to get max thickening then cutting back hard into the oldest needles to get new shoots back in lower areas.
The decandling technique is often promoted and discussed but is really only useful on more mature pines to promote final ramification and maintain established structure. I use a completely different regime for trees that are developing.