Developing tree in the ground before turning it into a bonsai

Cajunrider

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What are the major issues of developing a tree in the ground before digging it up and turning it into a bonsai?

Specifically I have a crepe myrtle that is planted at a wrong place. I know I don't want it there in the future. I'm thinking about doing a trunk chop and develop the tree while it is still in the ground. When the development is near where I want, I will then dig it up and turn it into a bonsai. Is there any major issue in doing that?
 

Cadillactaste

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No, many ground grow. You will find very beneficial to the hobby. Trees thicken at a far quicker rate. I'm going one with an American wisteria sucker. It's thickening way faster in ground.

Good luck to you!
 

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hemmy

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Is there any major issue in doing that?

Yes, it is hard. (Just to be a contrarian)

But seriously it is hard. The tree is on the ground so it’s tough to get good perspective on a final design, if it has never had the roots worked for Bonsai, then the nebari is probably not great. The growth can get away from you in a hurry and ruin the desired design. A sand worm could suck under from underneath. Anything is possible, but don’t take my word for it:
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/growfast.htm

I have no experience with mrytles but you may want to lift it in the spring and work the roots flat. Then plant it in the ground and depending on the severity of the root work and how it responds you could chop it at the appropriate time. Some growers lift deciduous trees every year or every other year to work the roots.
 

River's Edge

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What are the major issues of developing a tree in the ground before digging it up and turning it into a bonsai?

Specifically I have a crepe myrtle that is planted at a wrong place. I know I don't want it there in the future. I'm thinking about doing a trunk chop and develop the tree while it is still in the ground. When the development is near where I want, I will then dig it up and turn it into a bonsai. Is there any major issue in doing that?
There are several major issues.
The main advantage is the rate of growth, particularily thickening the trunk. The main disadvantages also relate to the rate of growth. Controlling the nebari and improving the root base, controlling the branch development and vigour for internode length. Time gained in thickening the trunk is often lost in reversing root issues and uncontrolled branch growth issues.
 

Potawatomi13

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One positive note: Telperion Farms uses Root(grow)bags, allows big leader to grow trunk and trims low branches some to keep main tree "developable" as Bonsai tree;). "May" also dig bag and prune roots but guessing here.
 

River's Edge

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One positive note: Telperion Farms uses Root(grow)bags, allows big leader to grow trunk and trims low branches some to keep main tree "developable" as Bonsai tree;). "May" also dig bag and prune roots but guessing here.

The specific methods used by top growers such as Telperion go a long ways to address the problems with in ground development. Bonsai enthusiasts are fortunate that growers continue to advance the knowledge needed to produce fine Bonsai. The more experience one has with various methods the more clearly one understands the trade offs.
Initially in the early growth years the work required to produce movement, Nebari and lower branching suitable for fine bonsai is considerable and frequent. This slows growth at various intervals and also adds to the cost of development in both labour and growing time before ready for sale. Trade offs!
For purposes of this discussion the question was are there disadvantages to growing in the ground? The answer is yes, but there are also advantages initially. My experience is that the time gained initially is spent reverse engineering problems that can develop with rapid growth. Or as is often in ground growing uninterrupted growth. The absence of steps taken to control nebari and or lower branching development. The better the grower and their process the fewer the growth issues. The more extensive their process the higher the cost.
Also, it should be noted that the ability to select from hundreds of trees developed in ground sure beats growing one or two in ground at home. in most species correcting root problems is possible and lack of lower branching can be addressed with grafting. One just needs to be realistic about the time and skill involved if those issues exist. I work with stock i have purchased from Telperion and fully appreciate the extra steps that they take in their process. Some of the work they have pioneered played a direct role in the methods I have chosen for my own nursery. I consider them to be one of the best at what they do.

PS: Not to mention the problems of working with the lower branches of trees while laying on the ground!:eek:
 

Sifu

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PS: Not to mention the problems of working with the lower branches of trees while laying on the ground!:eek:
If you wanna do a trunk chop that doesn't matter. Chopped trunk left in the ground would produce more new buds = branches that you can work latter on. You can leave it in the ground for a season, maybe two and then dig it up. You still have enough time to correct lower brunches later, when the tree is in the pot.
 

Anthony

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You are allowed to elevate the growing zone.
No need to lie on the ground.
Raised Bed ---------- you can use concrete blocks.
Good Day
Anthony
 

River's Edge

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LOL:D! Exact thing mentioned in recent Mirai podcast.
Not surprised, common observation from anyone who has actually been involved in developing trees in the ground! Pretty sure that is why the literature often suggests a few years then transitioning to containers for continued development.
I find that with the ease of care in larger containers the growth can be just as impressive without having to deal with in ground issues. One can work on other development and growth management issues with ease when the tree is portable to the bench or workshop.
 

River's Edge

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If you wanna do a trunk chop that doesn't matter. Chopped trunk left in the ground would produce more new buds = branches that you can work latter on. You can leave it in the ground for a season, maybe two and then dig it up. You still have enough time to correct lower brunches later, when the tree is in the pot.
What you say can be true in some circumstances. It does assume that the inground situation is the best set of growing conditions. This is not always true, if for example it is easier to give better more consistent care to a tree in a suitable grow box that also contains a superior root growing soil mix. Open ground growing also does not allow for transitioning the tree to more suitable locations for growth management if required. I agree there is plenty of time to correct situations later. I just do not agree that it is the best route to allow them to develop initially if one is after the best results.
I have no problem with each person choosing there own methods to reach the desired outcomes. I find it worthwhile to try the various approaches, that way i know how they work for me in my situation.
 
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