development of a zelkova

leatherback

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So.. Over the weekend I took apart an old zelkova forest. Some of the trees I am planning on using individually, rather than replanting them into the forest. This is one of them. I like the quircky trunk. One of the things I am wondering about is how to develop this.

I am thinking about a shallow hanging tree. But a wind-blown tree could also be. So in short: Where would you take this?

zelkovawaldliteraat-1.jpgzelkovawaldliteraat-2.jpgzelkovawaldliteraat-3.jpg
 

TomB

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Along the same lines as Bobby's suggestion, I think this tree is almost there already as a slender naturalistic tree with an almost literati feel. I wouldn't exaggerate the windswept theme too much, but I'd bring the left hand branch in a bit closer to the others. Then a little bit more ramification - but keeping it very sparse. Nice pot in a year or two, then just enjoy it.
 

Djtommy

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Nice movement in that trunk, it talks literati like but literati for a zelkova isn’t a sustainable option I think or at least ver difficult.
Still a light crown and probably also developing the lower little branch seems good direction
 

leatherback

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Frankly, it’s a great forest tree.
True. Challenge is.. The forest was way to large and overgrown. To get it into sizes I can manage I would have to reduce so much that this one would just be a trunk. Not sure about that route..
 

BonjourBonsai

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What about bringing the top right branch down to create a pad separated from the canopy? That might be an option if the little branch half way up here the guy wire is not viable.
 

MrWunderful

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I personally dont think zelkova is a good choice for literati due to the vigor, but that is my opinion.

It has a really nice trunk line, I like the idea of a really high domed (or more triangle) shaped canopy.
 

AlainK

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I personally dont think zelkova is a good choice for literati due to the vigor, but that is my opinion.

Zelkova in the wild are always "broom-shaped".

When potted, they can develop even slower than Acer palmatum, but when in the ground, they will put out 1 meter, or even 1.50 metre, or more shoots when they're strongly rooted.

I suppose a "Zelkova literati" can look very good. After all, we all train plants to look lke "trees", some of them that no one would ever find in nature like that but that look like a natural tree, a kind of illusion. A sort of "tanuki" in a way, deceiving the viewer.

I always feel uneasy to say the least, actually a bit annoyed when someone puts pictures of a birch to show that zelkovas, or oaks or pines or junipers or ficus, etc. can look "natural".

Whatever, if the tree is healthy and well-cared, it will reward the owner. Many options, beautiful colours in every season, very elegant.

Let it grow 😎

 
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BobbyLane

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Actually if i had these, a few could defo go into the grow bed for a season or two. just have to keep an eye on them as they grow so fast and branches knuckle up quickly if not pruned properly and at the right times. if you could get the literati one to the thickness of that Birch i shared, it will be real nice, i think 2-3 years in the ground could do it.
 

MrWunderful

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Could you expand on this please?
Before they get swollen 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Seriously though, I have found junctions tend to be more finer if allowed to sprout from opposing buds on one shoot- where if two shoots are allowed to grow from one junction, they will cause a knuckle to form.
 

BobbyLane

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Could you expand on this please?

I prune the shoots in the upper crown constantly while they're still red to induce the fine twigging and tips the species is known for.

This post is by Marcus watts, on another forum a few years ago. ive been applying some to my own tree. not done any defoliating yet in the two seasons but i might try next season. ive not followed it to the letter,




"Winter prune out the longer thick sections and any bits of the tree too dense in comparison to the rest

When it starts growing in spring (Zelkova can be much later to bud burst than other elm type trees- they are not elms either, just named as such in English) the new shoots and leaves are pinky red, cut all extensions back to 2 leaves while the twig is still red. This pruning period will last a few weeks as the shoots open over the tree......Now do nothing until early summer

Early summer......defoliate tree.......100% essential. You will trigger many more twigs rather than just straight shoots with leaves on. Do not rip leaves off by hand, the resulting re growth is very poor as too many base buds are damaged. Cut off the leaves properly with fine sharp scissors.

Feed steadily from spring till autumn.....when you chop lots off a tree you have to feed it well in return so it responds rather than weakens. I Feed all our stock and personal trees weekly with my fish emulsion concentrate and every 6weeks with our bonsai boost pellets"



"I clearly said do all the pruning when the new shoots are red, soft and small and to cut back to a leaf or two. Over the few weeks that the tree wakes up you just keep doing the same thing - this is a perfect way to balance energy as you cut the earliest and strongest shoots first, the slower ones take a little longer to be big enough to cut back and the weakest ones now have an opportunity to grow a bit. Every single shoot gets cut very early in the season too so heavy rampant growth never gets started. We are making a broom style tree here so all pruning is top pruning. The only time you need to consider heavier work is on a tree that has been unworked for a few years previously, grown in a big pot etc then it can be better to chop lots off and regrow all the branches from stubs
This is exactly the same plan I use with my specimen Zelkova a few people are 'debating' shall we say in another thread on here."
 
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AlainK

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No dead wood ? No rot, and decay and holes, and signs of gashes on this one ?

How disapointing...

Just pulling your leg 🤤 Kimura's design is good design, IMO.

Very natural, "naturalistic" as some say...
 
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