Direction of this chinese elm

evmibo

Shohin
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I picked this little guy up about 3 weeks ago. I replanted him into an oversized pot with a mix that was staying too wet. He started to show signs of being over-watered and lost almost all the leaves. I transplanted him into a smaller pot with mostly perlite. He is doing much better after 1.5 weeks and new buds are everywhere. I'm saving big changes for the cooler months (I don't expect this to drop leaves and go dormant in my climate but think that will be the best time for such a thing) and will try to keep him relatively "in shape" through the summer (cutting back long shoots). As of now I'm trying to limit anything that will have to be healed so he can regain strength.

So, I made this thread for some advice if possible on shape, future cuts, etc through photoshops or text :); I'm trying hard to not move fast and make any cuts I may regret. I'm trying to keep him as broom style. If I remember correctly the total height from the soil is 7" and 9" wide. Trunk is 3/8". I'm transferring to a slightly larger pot that was delivered today with mostly turface. I have a couple books, although evergreengardenworks has been my favorite place to read articles lately, along with bonsai4me (I really want that Harry Harrington book to get to the states).
 

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John Ruger

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Do you have any shots 90 degrees either way? It looks like you have a nice split off your trunk.
 

John Ruger

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How's the root spread? The broom styles I've seen all have a really sleek trunk line, I can't really tell from the shot angles, but how would it look without the fat primary branch and then you have a nice "Y" shape.
 

bonsai barry

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I'm not sure that the broom style is the best choice. I see two problems:
1) the first branch appears to be nearly as thick as the trunk. I would remove it.
2) The split at the trunk has a sling shot look to it. You could cut on of the two main stems considerably or, better yet, all the way off and work with the remaining branch. That would also provide some taper to the trunk.
 

evmibo

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This has opened my eyes a bit, I bought it thinking I could work with the 3 branches that were already there but it may be best to get back to the drawing board. I see the issues with the taper and the first fatter branch. I still have to decide on what exactly to do with the other two but feel that only one should remain to help improve the taper as you guys mentioned.

How's the root spread? The broom styles I've seen all have a really sleek trunk line, I can't really tell from the shot angles, but how would it look without the fat primary branch and then you have a nice "Y" shape.
The root spread needs much improvement (assuming you're talking about nebari). The trunk is actually a little longer than the pictures suggest, it is submerged slightly and a tourniquet has been applied with 1mm wire. Unfortunately if I cut the big one I think I have to choose to cut another one as well since (as Barry mentioned) it looks way too much like a sling shot.

I'm not sure that the broom style is the best choice. I see two problems:
1) the first branch appears to be nearly as thick as the trunk. I would remove it.
2) The split at the trunk has a sling shot look to it. You could cut on of the two main stems considerably or, better yet, all the way off and work with the remaining branch. That would also provide some taper to the trunk.
1) I think I will do this, I may consider air layering it also..?
2) It might be the best method to cut all but one of the two remaining. Fortunately I'll have all season to let it get a little fatter, let the future nebari develop some and think about the cuts.
 
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evmibo

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Alright, after starring at the tree for a bit I came up with this idea. This gives you an idea of what cuts I'm looking to make. I decided at this angle the 2 upward branches seem okay. Cutting it down to 1 might not work, I thought it would look weird, let me know if you think otherwise.

Here's the pics. I may cut the back slightly though.
 

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