Do I trim blue spruce before winter?

scottc

Mame
Messages
114
Reaction score
149
So I got this in spring. All the lighter colored is new this year. I was advised not to trim then. Now winter is coming. Do I trim now or just wait more. For what I like the shape is great. I did not wire branches like you guys do. I just put wires to hold branches low. Most stay now without holddowns. I’m thinking to just wait. I also sprayed some black pruning spray on branches I cut off when I got it. When would be a good time to dremmel off the black to give a more natural look as it heals.
 

Attachments

  • 39599808-61C4-44E4-90C0-7254EA0A257E.jpeg
    39599808-61C4-44E4-90C0-7254EA0A257E.jpeg
    391.2 KB · Views: 95
  • 8C363F1D-6D2C-438F-A720-5FD582FA0999.jpeg
    8C363F1D-6D2C-438F-A720-5FD582FA0999.jpeg
    383.9 KB · Views: 95
We use spiraled wire to do more than just “pull down” branches. Wire can put in curves, change the angles the smaller branches emerge from the main branch, wire can put in undulations in the branch, little up/down movements. All these things are possible with wire. Guy wires pull down. One dimension, and usually if the guy is attached near the end of the branch, it pulls the end more than the middle of the branch, or the portion where the branch attaches to the trunk. The result is an upside down U shaped branch. Which is neither natural looking, nor pretty.

I suggest you watch Colin Lewis’s excellent FREE tutorial on www.craftsy.com. It’s free. Once you register, search for “bonsai”, and you’ll find it.

Yes, fall is an excellent time to prune conifers.
 
We use spiraled wire to do more than just “pull down” branches. Wire can put in curves, change the angles the smaller branches emerge from the main branch, wire can put in undulations in the branch, little up/down movements. All these things are possible with wire. Guy wires pull down. One dimension, and usually if the guy is attached near the end of the branch, it pulls the end more than the middle of the branch, or the portion where the branch attaches to the trunk. The result is an upside down U shaped branch. Which is neither natural looking, nor pretty.

I suggest you watch Colin Lewis’s excellent FREE tutorial on www.craftsy.com. It’s free. Once you register, search for “bonsai”, and you’ll find it.

Yes, fall is an excellent time to prune conifers.
Thanks! I understand your wiring description. I was going for the buried in snow for 6 months out of the year look. How do people wire spruce like this with the needles covering the complete branches? What part would I trim on this. The growth that makes branches longer? I did cut down growing growth off during summer. Just the small stuff.
 
Spruce back bud prolificly. Don’t pinch the new growth, let it extend. This allows the roots to grow. After it’s finished growing, then cut back to a bud or small branch that’s closer to the trunk.

Look at pictures of natural spruce. The branches begin their downward movement right at the point where they attach to the trunk. Not way out on the limbs. You see, they stated getting exposed to heavy snowfalls when those branches were young and flexible. They started getting bent down early in their growth. Each year as they got older and bigger, they’d catch more snow. But they begin to droop right off the trunk.

A technique that might help you:

B2612CDE-5786-475F-9482-F7FB423B5D38.jpeg

Fig. 16 shows a piece of rebar tied to the bottom of a branch. Then, the rebar is pulled down. This focuses the bend to be right at the joint at the trunk.

Obviously, it is easy to tear the joint. A little tearing is ok, just apply putty. You can keep the rebar in place for several years. Each year, pull it down a little more. In this way, you act the same way as the snow does on a big tree.
 
Spruce back bud prolificly. Don’t pinch the new growth, let it extend. This allows the roots to grow. After it’s finished growing, then cut back to a bud or small branch that’s closer to the trunk.

Look at pictures of natural spruce. The branches begin their downward movement right at the point where they attach to the trunk. Not way out on the limbs. You see, they stated getting exposed to heavy snowfalls when those branches were young and flexible. They started getting bent down early in their growth. Each year as they got older and bigger, they’d catch more snow. But they begin to droop right off the trunk.

A technique that might help you:

View attachment 211996

Fig. 16 shows a piece of rebar tied to the bottom of a branch. Then, the rebar is pulled down. This focuses the bend to be right at the joint at the trunk.

Obviously, it is easy to tear the joint. A little tearing is ok, just apply putty. You can keep the rebar in place for several years. Each year, pull it down a little more. In this way, you act the same way as the snow does on a big tree.
Thanks!!! I’m on it... I have both 1/4 and 3/8 rebar and will bend it to match curve of branch. I want them to bend Dow and towards front. Snow and wind blown in 1 direction. I’ll have to ask you for advice on this tree soon. I don’t know what to do but like it. Nursery store reject that was broken. 4C3B8DCF-069D-465C-B53A-A13964AE19F4.jpegF5576AB8-CE33-4304-AF92-47CF8FB226CC.jpeg020149AD-FABB-456C-8AE6-E3B646D4B345.jpeg
 
Well, you can bend the rebar if you like, but the way they grow is the weight of the snow pulls the main branch down at the joint with the trunk. The young growth grows UP, so the ends of the branches don’t weep down, they try to reach up to the sun:

A7C7E25D-783B-4525-9D52-C494695034B1.jpeg
 
Spruce back bud prolificly. Don’t pinch the new growth, let it extend. This allows the roots to grow. After it’s finished growing, then cut back to a bud or small branch that’s closer to the trunk.

Look at pictures of natural spruce. The branches begin their downward movement right at the point where they attach to the trunk. Not way out on the limbs. You see, they stated getting exposed to heavy snowfalls when those branches were young and flexible. They started getting bent down early in their growth. Each year as they got older and bigger, they’d catch more snow. But they begin to droop right off the trunk.

A technique that might help you:

View attachment 211996

Fig. 16 shows a piece of rebar tied to the bottom of a branch. Then, the rebar is pulled down. This focuses the bend to be right at the joint at the trunk.

Obviously, it is easy to tear the joint. A little tearing is ok, just apply putty. You can keep the rebar in place for several years. Each year, pull it down a little more. In this way, you act the same way as the snow does on a big tree.
This paper! ✊????
 
But can a spruce be pruned in early winter (late fall)?
 
Might as well leave em on til after the actual snow weighs em down yeah?

I'd prune just before sap flows.

S
 
Might as well leave em on til after the actual snow weighs em down yeah?

I'd prune just before sap flows.

S
The small amount of snow the short branches of a bonsai would accumulate won’t do a thing.
 
All well, but... this is not a spruce. It looks like an Atlas cedar.

EDIT: The second tree posted.
 
Last edited:
I would like to find a great source for step by step use of rebar @Adair M .
Ryan Neils video
Is an excellent way to bend large branches, but the branch I'm wanting to bend
needs to bend forwards. This wedging and guying technique concerns me for
a forwards bend since the wound(s) will be at the front viewing side in my case.
I've never bent anything bigger than my little finger on a bonsai.

LOVE the foliage on your Blue Atlas Cedar @scottc
Maybe the video above can lend some ideas? Best of luck!
 
Back
Top Bottom