Dormant Season Spraying Part 1: Broadleaf Deciduous Trees

Dormant Season Spraying Part 1: Broadleaf Deciduous Trees

Panos

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Bloody hell you've left almost nothing..... all write the difference is.. you know what to do, as my status appear I'm a beginner that's my 9th year so long so I'm thinking to cut that thick root back to that junction point and hope for the best..
by the way my elm is native English forest Elm as its being described
Thanks anyways...
 

markyscott

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Bloody hell you've left almost nothing..... all write the difference is.. you know what to do, as my status appear I'm a beginner that's my 9th year so long so I'm thinking to cut that thick root back to that junction point and hope for the best..
by the way my elm is native English forest Elm as its being described
Thanks anyways...

That example is a Chinese elm, but I’ve worked with a fair number of native elms too. I’ve never worked with an English elm. If they react like the ones I’ve worked with, I likely would have cut that root back hard at collection. In your case I would repot the tree in early spring and cut back the long root. It will lead to big nebari problems if you leave it.

S
 

Panos

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All write thanks a lot, I will cut it of at that junction point in early spring as you mentioned and then keep you updated.... so have a good one by the way!!!!
 

bwaynef

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So, your dormant oil spray is mostly for deciduous trees? I was hoping to use it to get an upper hand on a mite problem that’s mostly under control now on a juniper. Your post made it sound like you only used it on deciduous stuff.
 

Panos

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I'm not sure about that spray on different kind of trees but what I have is only that type of trees so I think its better to get a second opinion
 

markyscott

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So, your dormant oil spray is mostly for deciduous trees? I was hoping to use it to get an upper hand on a mite problem that’s mostly under control now on a juniper. Your post made it sound like you only used it on deciduous stuff.

I use the dormant spray regimen I described on everything that loses its leaves. Mites are challenging - a number of insecticides in common use are simply not effective as miticides. All Seasons Horticultural Oil is effective on spider mites as is need oil. It does list on the label growing seasons concentrations for some plants, but juniper is not referenced. Try it on a seedling first to test sensitivity. I’ve used Bifen I/T on junipers for mite control. It’s a very effective miticide.

S
 

Panos

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I think you mean neem oil???
 

markyscott

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I think you mean neem oil???

The product referenced in my resource is a “superior oil” - a highly refined petroleum product. Neem is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the neem (Azadirachta indica), an evergreen tree native to India. Both products work by blocking spiracles, reducing the availability of oxygen and interfering with various metabolic processes. Neem is also an effective miticide and can be used at dormant concentrations instead of superior oil. Both are excellent products.

I’ve used neem oil on a wide variety of bonsai, including juniper, with no problems. I’ve heard - not seen - others that have burned junipers with neem oil. I have had luck with neem oil on junipers, pines, etc, for handling aphids and mites. I typically follow package instructions, and in the warmer seasons I spray at night.The only odd effect I noticed was that it turned blue junipers like procumbens a shiny green color.

Here are a couple of links for additional reading.
https://bonsaitonight.com/tag/pests/
https://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2013/fs1320.pdf

Hope that helps.

Scott
 
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bwaynef

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I use the dormant spray regimen I described on everything that loses its leaves. Mites are challenging - a number of insecticides in common use are simply not effective as miticides. All Seasons Horticultural Oil is effective on spider mites as is need oil. It does list on the label growing seasons concentrations for some plants, but juniper is not referenced. Try it on a seedling first to test sensitivity. I’ve used Bifen I/T on junipers for mite control. It’s a very effective miticide.

S


I've got the same product you mention (with a newer label I think). It mentions conifers, but mentions junipers may be somewhat susceptible (...or something along those lines). I'll look it up again. I wonder if it'd be ok to use during the dormant period, ...while junipers may be burned when they're actively growing. I'll see what I can come up with.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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I use trichoderma viride as an applicant and it seems to do a good job to the most common fungi. It operates in the same humidity and temperature range as the pathogens.
Combating fire with fire.

Also, don't forget about your surfactants when using chemicals! They can make all the difference when trying to reach those nooks and crannies.
 

Japonicus

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I've got the same product you mention (with a newer label I think). It mentions conifers, but mentions junipers may be somewhat susceptible (...or something along those lines). I'll look it up again. I wonder if it'd be ok to use during the dormant period, ...while junipers may be burned when they're actively growing. I'll see what I can come up with.
Neem and Volck oil work fine on procumbens here on the N side of the house applied early Winter Dec-Jan.
Not sure about other conifers including shimpaku. That colour it gives the foliage is ridiculous but fades when
growth resumes in Spring.

@markyscott why, do the instructions on this dormant oil spray I have by Ortho, Volck Oil,
that's now discontinued, place red and Japanese Maples on the DO NOT USE on species?
This is neither Dormant nor Growing season part of the instructions, which are broken down
I mean the label refers to both seasons, rather it is in the IMPORTANT section of the label. DO NOT USE...

Are there similar sensitivities for JM with other horticultural oils, such as Neem?
Very important question I figure you are familiar with. Thank you for taking the time to add the resource :)
 

markyscott

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Neem and Volck oil work fine on procumbens here on the N side of the house applied early Winter Dec-Jan.
Not sure about other conifers including shimpaku. That colour it gives the foliage is ridiculous but fades when
growth resumes in Spring.

@markyscott why, do the instructions on this dormant oil spray I have by Ortho, Volck Oil,
that's now discontinued, place red and Japanese Maples on the DO NOT USE on species?
This is neither Dormant nor Growing season part of the instructions, which are broken down
I mean the label refers to both seasons, rather it is in the IMPORTANT section of the label. DO NOT USE...

Are there similar sensitivities for JM with other horticultural oils, such as Neem?
Very important question I figure you are familiar with. Thank you for taking the time to add the resource :)

Hi Japonicus. I just checked the label on the product I’ve been using - All-Seasons Horticultural Oil. It makes no mention of Japanese Maple one way or another. I’ve never sprayed them in leaf, but I have sprayed them in dormancy for at least 6 years.

I know a number of people who have sprayed neem oil on their JM in leaf, but I just don’t have many insect problems with them and have never had the occasion to consider doing so.

S
 

Japonicus

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Hi Japonicus. I just checked the label on the product I’ve been using - All-Seasons Horticultural Oil. It makes no mention of Japanese Maple one way or another. I’ve never sprayed them in leaf, but I have sprayed them in dormancy for at least 6 years.

I know a number of people who have sprayed neem oil on their JM in leaf, but I just don’t have many insect problems with them and have never had the occasion to consider doing so.

S
Awesome! Maybe in part as to why Ortho discontinued the Volck Oil spray.
Thanks again.
 

markyscott

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With everything awakening, I’ll have to spray a bit earlier that I’d like. It’s only been a bit over three weeks since i sprayed with horticultural oil.

First the systemic. I sprayed with Cleary’s 3336f at the rate of 1.5 tsp per gallon on all pines, junipers and any maples that had their leaves on. Then I put down Bonide Infuse. This is a granular product - I pore it on the soil surface - 1 tsp for small plants and 3 tsp for large ones.

Both products contain thiophanate-methyl, a broad spectrum fungicide. It is labeled effective against anthracnose and several types of needle cast as well as diplodia tip blight. Tip blight on junipers and pines are the major fungal problem we face. Apply before the candles start to move - it’s too early yet for copper-based fungicides. Use those when the needles start to emerge from their sheath.

9F197BBB-DCA9-4D27-A0EF-23CDA636A738.jpeg2C0503A2-69D9-496B-A590-BB9AE00D9034.jpeg

S
 

markyscott

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Thanks @Adair M for advice on the Bonide Infuse application.

Second step is lime sulfur on anything without its leaves. The perfect time is right when buds begin to swell - I’ll check the plants weekly from now until everything is leafed out and spray. It’ll be several times between now and spring. I use 5oz of 29% lime sulfur + 1oz horticultural oil per gallon of water.

Be sure to protect your pots or wash them down with water right away to protect them from discoloring due to lime sulfur drips.

S
 

JoeR

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Thanks @Adair M for advice on the Bonide Infuse application.

Second step is lime sulfur on anything without its leaves. The perfect time is right when buds begin to swell - I’ll check the plants weekly from now until everything is leafed out and spray. It’ll be several times between now and spring. I use 5oz of 29% lime sulfur + 1oz horticultural oil per gallon of water.

Be sure to protect your pots or wash them down with water right away to protect them from discoloring due to lime sulfur drips.

S
Me too, even though it’s way earlier than it should be. One of my tridents already has tiny leaves out so it’s too late for that one, and the other maples have swollen buds. Hopefully not too late there.
 

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sierrajuniper

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With everything awakening, I’ll have to spray a bit earlier that I’d like. It’s only been a bit over three weeks since i sprayed with horticultural oil.

First the systemic. I sprayed with Cleary’s 3336f at the rate of 1.5 tsp per gallon on all pines, junipers and any maples that had their leaves on. Then I put down Bonide Infuse. This is a granular product - I pore it on the soil surface - 1 tsp for small plants and 3 tsp for large ones.

Both products contain thiophanate-methyl, a broad spectrum fungicide. It is labeled effective against anthracnose and several types of needle cast as well as diplodia tip blight. Tip blight on junipers and pines are the major fungal problem we face. Apply before the candles start to move - it’s too early yet for copper-based fungicides. Use those when the needles start to emerge from their sheath.

View attachment 223258View attachment 223259

S
Hi Scott,

How often do you spray with Cleary 3336f? I think I'm having Cercospora fungus with my california juniper. Do you think Cleary 3336f can treat Cercospora fungus? Thanks so lot for your useful info.
 

markyscott

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How often do you spray with Cleary 3336f?

I use the granules as a systemic regularly in the winter and I put it on most trees in the collection. Other than the dormant sprays I listed above, It depends - I spray as needed.

I think I'm having Cercospora fungus with my california juniper. Do you think Cleary 3336f can treat Cercospora fungus? Thanks so lot for your useful info.

I don’t have any experience with this fungus, but I did a little digging.

Cleary’s does not list Cercospora on the labeled list of effective diseases. According to the University of Nebraska website, they recommend applications of Bordeaux mix or a liquid copper fungicide such as Tenn-Cop 5E as effective controls of the disease. They recommend at least two applications. The first should be made in the first half of June (in Nebraska), just prior to initial infection. The second should be made during the last half of July. They state that the second application normally gives good protection against infection for the remainder of the season and that it might need more if you get a lot of rain.

S
 

crust

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I created this resource compiling information from a number of posts I’ve made on the subject. I’ve reposted much of this information several times in different places. Hopefully, compiling it all in a single spot and as a resource will makes it more accessible and available.
As always thank you for sharing your succinct and specific knowledge on this oh so frustrating issue!
 

sierrajuniper

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I use the granules as a systemic regularly in the winter and I put it on most trees in the collection. Other than the dormant sprays I listed above, It depends - I spray as needed.



I don’t have any experience with this fungus, but I did a little digging.

Cleary’s does not list Cercospora on the labeled list of effective diseases. According to the University of Nebraska website, they recommend applications of Bordeaux mix or a liquid copper fungicide such as Tenn-Cop 5E as effective controls of the disease. They recommend at least two applications. The first should be made in the first half of June (in Nebraska), just prior to initial infection. The second should be made during the last half of July. They state that the second application normally gives good protection against infection for the remainder of the season and that it might need more if you get a lot of rain.

S
Thanks for your info Scott. Do you think applying Bonide Infuse granules one in December and one in June is going to help Junipers through out the year? Thanks.
 
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