Drastically different soil component sizes?

Messages
119
Reaction score
82
Location
Minnesota/Bay Area (depending on time of year)
USDA Zone
4
The larger the particle, the less space for roots.

Less roots, less health.

Folks mostly compensate for this by not having any roots, and using pots that are too large. Ok, it's not a compensation, it is just what is going on.

You get the most root per cubic CM with 8822.

I though I was going to switch....but....no....it just works too well.

You can't fit 14mm particles in some pots.

Sorce

Interesting... Do you mind sharing generally what you've found the most success with? Do you change this depending on what stage of development your trees are in?
 

Mikecheck123

Omono
Messages
1,676
Reaction score
3,208
Location
Northern Virginia
USDA Zone
7b
I have found none of this to be true.
Also not trying to start a heated debate, but the effect is easily demonstrated. In an extreme example, a layer of potting soil on top of a drainage layer of coarse bonsai mix will stay just as wet as the same layer without the drainage layer. It's as if it's not even there.

I'm sure less drastic size differences can mitigate the effect, but I'm still not convinced there's a benefit.
 

coh

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,782
Reaction score
6,824
Location
Rochester, NY
USDA Zone
6
I have found none of this to be true.

Me neither. Whether I use a "drainage layer" or not, I always find large amounts of roots that have penetrated to the bottom of the container.

Yes, multiple times but you’d have to search and find it as an observation in repotting posts. I’ve already violated my principles to not get involved in soil or fertilizer debates here.🤭

Aw, come on - you're already in! Might as well have some fun with it!
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,912
Reaction score
45,593
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
These are my thoughts on particle sizes, you gotta go to it, I don't use wooden boxes.


Of the space in between particles, and this is the same as happens in a drainage layer, eventually the space between the roots growing around the particles gets filled by more roots, but root on root is cannibalistic at best. Perhaps Myc helps these root on root roots. But they are useless IMO. Better surrounded by soil.

Sorce
 

August44

Omono
Messages
1,899
Reaction score
1,366
Location
NE Oregon
USDA Zone
5-6
The larger the particle, the less space for roots.

Less roots, less health.

Folks mostly compensate for this by not having any roots, and using pots that are too large. Ok, it's not a compensation, it is just what is going on.

You get the most root per cubic CM with 8822.

I though I was going to switch....but....no....it just works too well.

You can't fit 14mm particles in some pots.

Sorce
Sorce...what is 8822?
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,745
Reaction score
12,754
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
Correct. It is a huge myth. It actually hurts drainage because of the perched water table that forms at the layer boundary.
It also comes with another severe drawback--roots will often decline to cross the boundary. Thus hampering root development and further risking over saturation.
Only if there is a significant difference in the particle size above and below does the perched water table apply. properly sifted with a drainage layer of slightly larger particles, not too deep, the difference is beneficial in allowing better drainage and gas exchange in the bottom of the pot.
Successful Bonsai is about the details ,not gross over generalizations that simply lead to circular arguments. There are two very in depth articles on this topic in the resources section of this forum. Those who are interested in facts can find them easily! Applying the facts correctly will get very positive results.
I use a drainage layer in all circumstances except very small containers. Always find roots at the bottom in the drainage layer and no problems with water tables sitting above. My grow beds have drainage layers, my grow boxes, Anderson flats etc! The whole nursery is set up that way.
Simply avoiding all the issues caused by mixed particle sizes, varying particle sizes, poor drainage, low gas exchange in the media.
The main point is the health of the plant and the structure of the root system for Bonsai purposes. What one can get away with while growing nursery stock is very different from creating the proper root structure for extended life in a Bonsai pot.
Particle shape determines the space between particles as much as the size. Larger irregular particles often lead to larger spaces and thicker roots. A technique used for exposed root development and larger specimens.
 

Clicio

Masterpiece
Messages
3,002
Reaction score
8,301
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
USDA Zone
11a
...Successful Bonsai is about the details ,not gross over generalizations that simply lead to circular arguments.
Simply avoiding all the issues caused by mixed particle sizes, varying particle sizes, poor drainage, low gas exchange in the media.
The main point is the health of the plant..

That's exactly what I think.
 

August44

Omono
Messages
1,899
Reaction score
1,366
Location
NE Oregon
USDA Zone
5-6
I have used Bonsai Jacks soil for several years. All of his particles are the same (1/4" +-). I have also used "Tiny Roots" soil which has a much smaller consistency....like 1/4"-1/16". Both drain well but it does seem like the Tiny Roots retains moisture a little better. I was told that the smaller particles makes for smaller roots, but I don't know that for a fact. Tiny roots is way more money by the way.
 

Deep Sea Diver

Masterpiece
Messages
4,488
Reaction score
9,386
Location
Bothell, WA
USDA Zone
8b
All this is very interesting, yet it somehow feels like de jevu all over again.

Somehow I feel that discussing base media without simultaneously discussing personal fertilization and watering habits is taking things out of context. Too many variables... let alone drainage layers, repotting rationale, microclimate...

..... maybe I’m wrong and good horticulture is as simple as checking off all of the “separate” boxes?

Be safe, stay healthy everyone!
DSD sends

1599459330516.png
 

roberthu

Chumono
Messages
827
Reaction score
580
Location
Atlanta GA
USDA Zone
7B
My point is that a plant "not minding" something is a weak argument for everyone to do it.
Actually if a plant grows well in certain substrate, then it has a purpose. After all, the trees are the judges. We are not.
 

roberthu

Chumono
Messages
827
Reaction score
580
Location
Atlanta GA
USDA Zone
7B
I heard that the drainage layer can actually harm the plant? Now, I'm a noob, but I read something about how a drainage layer may shift the saturation level of the soil up, rather than actually helping drain the soil more. I think Walter Pall might've even commented one time, saying something akin to, "Modern substrates are already draining."
Being a Mirai subscriber, I now call it "aeration layer". Ryan has been promoting the concept of water and oxygen balance for a long time and I think he's statement makes a lot of sense. Having a coarse layer at the bottom promotes better aeration through the holes thus promotes healthier root growth. Water will drain just fine with or without the coarse layer as long as the hold isn't clogged.
 

SU2

Omono
Messages
1,322
Reaction score
379
Location
FL (Tampa area / Gulf-Coast)
USDA Zone
9b
It seems like heterogeneity in soil particle sizes isn't too worrisome, and especially if you consider how every climate's and tree's individual needs will determine the ideal soil components/sizes, I'm not too afraid of that per se. However, my soil components are very different in size (see picture).

Particle sizes ranges from 15mm lava rock to 4mm DE. Any thoughts on how this might impact growth? I've tried crushing the lava rock to get things somewhat more evenly sized, but that yielded a lot of dust.

Would like to hear all your thoughts.
It's so funny you've posted this as I came to this subforum to make a thread on this very topic!!!!

In @Walter Pall 's legendary water/substrate/feed article ("In Plain English"), same-size aggregate components are advocated. I have found, over the years, that I dislike this....however I should put the big caveat here that, unlike Pall, I'm not growing in lil bonsai containers or even what most of you guys would consider 'grow containers', so maximizing feeders//volume isn't as critical for my trees since they're in the earlier phase of their development therefore some common themes are:
- rapid/forced growth in big containers, with
- relatively frequent 'hard cuts', both to roots&shoots, over the years while creating initial 'skeletons' of the rootplate & the canopy
So, since I make my own mixes (btw Re the scoria-dust you mention--- just use a screen & hose, you should be doing that anyways it's important to rinse otherwise you can sometimes be inadvertently adding a ton of fines to your containers!), this concept of particle-size is something I've pondered a while and have found I actually prefer irregular/mis-matched particle sizing. I find my grow-boxes better with larger particles, in general, on the bottom (and ridiculous drainage, if it's not a rootmaker type container) so 'skew' it that way (and often use a different mix with some finer stuff as a top-dress) but, throughout "the main rootzone" I like having interspersed chunks of nonporous rock(porous scoria still does this job fine enough though) because, when doing root-prunes, it lets you "get at" the rootplate better and structure/clip/etc to help set it up better, earlier.

I also no longer make any mix w/o including, at least a lil, of the following:
- shredded tan sphagnum, and
- shredded 'mini pine bark nuggets' (this stuff is the myco's favorite, at least around my garden!)

Should note that anything going into a container is thoroughly screened&rinsed beforehand, the only fines are things like a handful of compost or worm castings as top-dress on some species during their strongest grow-periods but I can't help but assume that such fines are being broken down and used as they settle-through and I don't use much. Have crazy amounts of worms in all containers (well all closed containers, they don't seem to like growbags as much..)
 

SC1989

Mame
Messages
246
Reaction score
232
Location
Duluth Minnesota
USDA Zone
3
Old post but, ..... smaller the pot, shallower = you can't afford it to drain at different rates. I will use large lava layer in a larger or taller container so it breathes better.
 
Top Bottom