Dwarf Barbados Cherry

Anthony

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JoeR,

we use simple fertilisers, like Miracle gro or Phostrogen, but at 1/3 strength and into moist soil.
NPK plus micronutrients.
Once a week, in the morning.
Nothing fantastic.
Feliz Navidad
Anthony
 

JoeR

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Why are the photos so large? I upload them with a cell phone but now when I am on a computer they are huge?



Anyway, thanks again for your help Anthony. Do you use 1/3 strength fertilizer on all of your trees or is this species particular about it?
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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@JoeR - there are many species in Malpighia, and a few species have several cultivars. Some are used more for their flowers, some for their fruit. The one raised for culinary fruit production has somewhat larger leaves than yours, more like the photo Anthony posted. There is a Malpighia with leaves like a miniature holly bush, called Singapore Holly, where it is popular as a landscape & potted plant for its flowers, not for its fruit. It is widely grown in Singapore and Malaysia.

You are in North Carolina, its winter, Malpighia is fairly tropical in habits, growing best when temperatures are well above 60 F at night and 15 F or more degrees warmer during the day. In cooler weather they may grow some, as your photo shows, but they are not growing vigorously, they are really semi-dormant. I would hold off on major repotting, & pruning until you can put it outside for the summer. You want your daytime highs above 80 F to get vigorous growth rolling.

While in the winter "doldrums", they don't need much fertilizer, hence the advice for 1/3rd strength. When the tree is growing rapidly, you can up either the amount of fertilizer, or increase the frequency with which you apply the fertilizer, which ever is your preference. Active growth they need more fertilizer.

If this tree was mine, I would not do anything now, then before thinking about pruning I would repot it much lower in the pot, so at least half or more of those exposed roots are covered. This is in part personal taste, I dislike 90% of the trees shown with exposed roots, My feeling is only the top half of the highest roots should be above the soil line. For most deciduous designs you should not be able to see what the diameter of a root is, only the top side should be visible. This is in part personal taste, not really a cultivation necessity. I would seat it lower, then give it 2 months or more to settle in. At the repotting, you could also go into a larger shallow pot, for more rapid growth with the intention of going back to a smaller pot after you get the back budding and branch development you want. Maybe a couple years or more in a larger pot.

When growth picks up and every branch end is growing, only then would I chop back the branches to try to force back budding. But don't do that until it has added some significant extension to the branches, at least 6 or so sets of leaves. You need the tree to build strength, so when you chop back, there is stored energy to feed the back buds. If you chop back too soon, it will only have enough energy for a lack luster back budding, and you won't have the choices you are hopping for.

This one has really nice bark, I like it. I have Eugenia, which is not related at all, but in many ways grows similarly. I think I will pick up a Malpighia someday, as I do like the bark you have on yours. Neat tree.
 

JoeR

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@JoeR - there are many species in Malpighia, and a few species have several cultivars. Some are used more for their flowers, some for their fruit. The one raised for culinary fruit production has somewhat larger leaves than yours, more like the photo Anthony posted. There is a Malpighia with leaves like a miniature holly bush, called Singapore Holly, where it is popular as a landscape & potted plant for its flowers, not for its fruit. It is widely grown in Singapore and Malaysia.

You are in North Carolina, its winter, Malpighia is fairly tropical in habits, growing best when temperatures are well above 60 F at night and 15 F or more degrees warmer during the day. In cooler weather they may grow some, as your photo shows, but they are not growing vigorously, they are really semi-dormant. I would hold off on major repotting, & pruning until you can put it outside for the summer. You want your daytime highs above 80 F to get vigorous growth rolling.

While in the winter "doldrums", they don't need much fertilizer, hence the advice for 1/3rd strength. When the tree is growing rapidly, you can up either the amount of fertilizer, or increase the frequency with which you apply the fertilizer, which ever is your preference. Active growth they need more fertilizer.

If this tree was mine, I would not do anything now, then before thinking about pruning I would repot it much lower in the pot, so at least half or more of those exposed roots are covered. This is in part personal taste, I dislike 90% of the trees shown with exposed roots, My feeling is only the top half of the highest roots should be above the soil line. For most deciduous designs you should not be able to see what the diameter of a root is, only the top side should be visible. This is in part personal taste, not really a cultivation necessity. I would seat it lower, then give it 2 months or more to settle in. At the repotting, you could also go into a larger shallow pot, for more rapid growth with the intention of going back to a smaller pot after you get the back budding and branch development you want. Maybe a couple years or more in a larger pot.

When growth picks up and every branch end is growing, only then would I chop back the branches to try to force back budding. But don't do that until it has added some significant extension to the branches, at least 6 or so sets of leaves. You need the tree to build strength, so when you chop back, there is stored energy to feed the back buds. If you chop back too soon, it will only have enough energy for a lack luster back budding, and you won't have the choices you are hopping for.

This one has really nice bark, I like it. I have Eugenia, which is not related at all, but in many ways grows similarly. I think I will pick up a Malpighia someday, as I do like the bark you have on yours. Neat tree.
The guy I bought it from said that they fruit well for him every year and this one should fruit, I really hope that is true.

I actually slip potted it into a plastic bonsai pot with soil.


Since then, It has grown all over, extentions of about 4-6 leaves (not sets) on every branch. Only on the tips of the branches has it grown, opposite of what I need. But overall I am satisfied with it at the moment
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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even though the growth is only at the ends of branches, that is a good sign. Let it keep growing, you want to get it outside and growing in spring. If you are able to put it outside, say early April, it likely would be strong enough to do a hard chop back maybe middle of June. Once it goes outside, increase frequency, or dose of fertilizer. Get it strong. Then the chop back will be more effective at forcing back buds.
 

Anthony

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Whoa, Joe, Leo,

that particular Malpighia, even after fertiliser can be finicky. Do a search on IBC, there is a guy who mastered the shtub,
Talk to him first, please.

Yes, Joe, we use fertiliser at 1/3 strength and into moist soil for all the trees.

That Malpighia, used to be called - The Weeping Cherry
Good Day
Anthony
 

JoeR

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Whoa, Joe, Leo,

that particular Malpighia, even after fertiliser can be finicky. Do a search on IBC, there is a guy who mastered the shtub,
Talk to him first, please.

Yes, Joe, we use fertiliser at 1/3 strength and into moist soil for all the trees.

That Malpighia, used to be called - The Weeping Cherry
Good Day
Anthony
I dont have an account on IBC and theres no search feature?


Is the one I have the same as the one wigerts sells? Are the berries on mine edible, with the high vitamin C?

http://wigertsbonsai.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=241
 

GroveKeeper

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I will be trying to get a barbados cherry as well as a jabuticaba. Mainly to use as a container fruit tree, but I will make cutting and layers for bonsai purposes.
 

Anthony

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Joe try the google feature - Images - Malpighia [ not sure what it is listed as ]

Barbados Cherry / West Indian cherry - Malpighia e ---------- Google Images and Google articles.

Grovekeeper - look for the Taiwanese Bonsai site - or ask Seth.
Good Day
Anthony
 

JoeR

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Joe try the google feature - Images - Malpighia [ not sure what it is listed as ]

Barbados Cherry / West Indian cherry - Malpighia e ---------- Google Images and Google articles.

Grovekeeper - look for the Taiwanese Bonsai site - or ask Seth.
Good Day
Anthony
Hey Anthony,

How would I go about grafting this species? Can I dig a small channel in a branch and then put a shoot (still attatched to the tree) in the channel?


-Also its doing very good, shoots have extended to 5 sets (10 leaves) on most branches.
 

JoeR

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And heres a picture from today:
 

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Anthony

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Joe,

never tried to graft this shrub. When it is growing it responds to simple grow and clip.
It will densify to the point of not being able to see through it.
There are several images of how it is grown in the Eastern tropics, you may need to
Google.
Looking good.
Good Day
Anthony
 

JoeR

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Joe,

never tried to graft this shrub. When it is growing it responds to simple grow and clip.
It will densify to the point of not being able to see through it.
There are several images of how it is grown in the Eastern tropics, you may need to
Google.
Looking good.
Good Day
Anthony
Thanks for the response Anthony. It just needs another branch to fill in a gap on the trunk and I thought grafting might be the best way.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Anthony is likely right, don't over do the fertilizer. Otherwise, I stick to my recommendation, to not prune it back until you have it outside and growing rapidly. If you chop it back before it has built up good reserves of stored energy (sugars, starches, etc) it won't have the strength to back bud the way you want it to. But if you wait, then chop it back hard sometime this summer, it will reward you by bursting out with buds all over. Chop too soon, and you will get a weak response, very little back budding, and could start a cycle of slow decline.

One problem I had when learning bonsai, was with species new to me I often made the mistake of assuming "some growth" was vigorous growth, and ended up setting my tree back, or sometimes killing it, because I thought it was strong enough to do "this" or "that", and the tree indeed was not. For years I thought the weak candle growth I was getting on new JBP was "strong candle growth", and of course I would kill them with what ever technique I applied. It was only when I finally left a couple go 3 years without touching them that I finally saw strong candles in spring. Wow, what a difference. This Malpighia is new to you. Let it grow a bit and get familiar with what it does, what is strong growth, and what is "just coasting along semi-dormant". Grow your Malpighia at least into the summer, to see what real vigorous growth is. Better would be let it go a full year to see the full cycle. THough I admit, I'd have a hard time making myself do that too. But at least let it get to this summer before chopping it back hard.

Most of us who do tropicals in cool to cold temperate climates resign ourselves to the fact that we get most of our growth during the brief warmest part of the summer, and not much else. My Ficus only grow for me about 3 months of the year, June, July & August. When they come indoors in early September, they slow down to a crawl, and really get very little growth for the entire winter. This is frustrating, because it takes me 4 times longer to get the same development that somebody in Homestead Florida would get in a year. Now I do have an elaborate light garden, but it is filled with orchids. And I grow cool growing orchids, so I don't heat the area warm enough to keep Ficus happy. So even though I have the light they need, my Ficus spend winter more or less dormant. I now accept that, and don't try to work them in winter, and as a result, have better success with them.

If you had a high output light garden, and kept the room warm enough for Malpighia, you could keep them growing rapidly all winter. But it would have to be as bright as needed for tomatoes or marijuana, maybe even a little brighter. Not the easiest thing to do.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Chopping back to force back budding. Specifically with the purpose of forcing back budding. I found that this technique works best if when done, you cut off every single growing end of every branch. This is a general recommendation, pretty much regardless of species, or at least dicot species. (pines and other conifers, the monocots, are their own trick bag).

If you leave a major branch or two with branch tips that were not pruned, the ones that were cut might not back bud as desired. The apical bud, (end tip) of a branch secretes hormones which cause the buds behind it (closer to the trunk and roots) to either stay dormant or to grow more slowly than the apical bud. In a small tree, for example with 12 branches, if you cut the apical bud off 10 branches, but leave 2, the 2 will still have hormonal control that will reduce or prevent entirely the back budding on the other branches. The larger the branch, the stronger the hormonal control from the apical bud. So it is probably okay to ignore really tiny branches, but in general every branch larger than "tiny" needs its apical bud removed to get the maximum back budding response out of a tree.

Just a suggestion, if you already knew this, I put it here for others new to bonsai that might not be aware of how to get the best out of this technique. The more vigorously the tree is growing in advance of this technique, the stronger the response.
 

JoeR

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Chopping back to force back budding. Specifically with the purpose of forcing back budding. I found that this technique works best if when done, you cut off every single growing end of every branch. This is a general recommendation, pretty much regardless of species, or at least dicot species. (pines and other conifers, the monocots, are their own trick bag).

If you leave a major branch or two with branch tips that were not pruned, the ones that were cut might not back bud as desired. The apical bud, (end tip) of a branch secretes hormones which cause the buds behind it (closer to the trunk and roots) to either stay dormant or to grow more slowly than the apical bud. In a small tree, for example with 12 branches, if you cut the apical bud off 10 branches, but leave 2, the 2 will still have hormonal control that will reduce or prevent entirely the back budding on the other branches. The larger the branch, the stronger the hormonal control from the apical bud. So it is probably okay to ignore really tiny branches, but in general every branch larger than "tiny" needs its apical bud removed to get the maximum back budding response out of a tree.

Just a suggestion, if you already knew this, I put it here for others new to bonsai that might not be aware of how to get the best out of this technique. The more vigorously the tree is growing in advance of this technique, the stronger the response.
I actually did not know this and I am very glad you said it; it would have been my next question.
 

JoeR

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Update:

We have flowers!

0301161550-1.jpg

Or buds, really. It has slowed (NOT stopped) vegetative growth for flowers it appears. I am surprised how many flowers there are already. Hopefully I will get fruit!
 

Mike MoMo

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Great! Mine will not die , will not grow, just buds leaves. I am waiting for spring to buy another. I may slip pot "Jasper" this week try a new soil mix. I really love that ornery a$$ tree.
 

sorce

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Nice JoeR!

Congrats!

Sorce
 
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