Dwarf Mugo Pine first branch pruning from nursery stock

Hbhaska

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Hi

I’m still very much a beginner and I would really appreciate anyone that wants to help me out on this tree. It’s a dwarf Mugo pine that I recently obtained from a nursery. I decided to do a quick pruning of the branches to make it somewhat look like a tree. This is the result.

My question is what do I do next. Leave until end of spring/early summer to wire the branches? Remove candles and keep two per branch which need development?

thank you again
 

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M. Frary

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Good start.
One thing about removing branches from mugo pines.
Try to leave a stub.
It fools the tree into thinking a branch is still there.
If it thinks there is no branch to keep alive it can stop sending nutrients to that area and above.
I have one from Vance that a limb had been cut off flush and one whole side died.
You can see it at the bottom where all that dead wood is.
20170916_154028.jpg
Late summer early fall to apply wire.
You can do bud selection in the spring.
Never cut the candles.
Cut the shoots off back to last years growth in late summer early fall for maximum back budding.
 

Hbhaska

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Good start.
One thing about removing branches from mugo pines.
Try to leave a stub.
It fools the tree into thinking a branch is still there.
If it thinks there is no branch to keep alive it can stop sending nutrients to that area and above.
I have one from Vance that a limb had been cut off flush and one whole side died.
You can see it at the bottom where all that dead wood is.
View attachment 289263
Late summer early fall to apply wire.
You can do bud selection in the spring.
Never cut the candles.
Cut the shoots off back to last years growth in late summer early fall for maximum back budding.
Thank you! I didn’t know that you are supposed to leave a stub. I did leave one stump as a Jin ( you can see that sticking up behind the tree). Other than that, all the other cuts were flush. Do you think the tree will survive?

when do you think it should be repotted/put in a training pot? I suspect the tree has been in this nursery container for quite some time now. Thank you again.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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It will probably survive, the big question is will parts of your trunk die back where the branches were cut flush? Don't know, time will tell.

I don't know how hot your summers get. I would be tempted to "call work done" for this year and just let it grow. You might be able to repot after the high heat of summer is done for the year. But I don't know the Oceanside climate. Let some California bonsai growers tell you when the best time for a repot will be. You can wire the tree later this year. Wiring is the least stressful of the things you can do.

Nice tree
 

Hbhaska

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It will probably survive, the big question is will parts of your trunk die back where the branches were cut flush? Don't know, time will tell.

I don't know how hot your summers get. I would be tempted to "call work done" for this year and just let it grow. You might be able to repot after the high heat of summer is done for the year. But I don't know the Oceanside climate. Let some California bonsai growers tell you when the best time for a repot will be. You can wire the tree later this year. Wiring is the least stressful of the things you can do.

Nice tree
Thank you for these useful pointers. I appreciate it.
 

M. Frary

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Do you think the tree will survive
You'll know soon enough.
It most likely will though.
They weren't super big.
I know I wouldn't mind finding that at a nursery.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Is zone 10 too warm for Mugo pine?

Probably. If you do not see mugo being routinely sold in your local landscape nurseries, then in all probability it is too warm.

In general I believe zone 3 to zone 8 is the range usually published for mugo.

The original poster, HBHaska, already owns the tree, so time will tell.
 

Japonicus

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Here's a good read on mugos from Vance...
...have you at least sealed the open wounds?
The lack of a good Winter for dormancy is the biggest concern.
 

Hbhaska

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Here's a good read on mugos from Vance...
...have you at least sealed the open wounds?
The lack of a good Winter for dormancy is the biggest concern.
I was told that one does not have to worry about sealing open wounds with cut paste because pines exude a gummy substance that essentially seals wounds. In any case, I will go home and apply cut paste. It wouldn’t hurt. Thanks.
 

MrWunderful

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I have trouble with them in 10a. Followed Vance’s direction to a T and mine still withered and died. I know some folks have older specimens, Not sure how they do it.
 

MrWunderful

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How long did you have it?

I had (2), 1 year and 3 yrs. Both had mild repots and prune.

I can grow jbp no problem so its not my conifer horticulture (I didnt treat the mugos like the jbp).

I have found I cant grow larch or stewartia either- maybe ill try when I move to an area with more of a dormant period.
 

Paradox

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I had (2), 1 year and 3 yrs. Both had mild repots and prune.

I can grow jbp no problem so its not my conifer horticulture (I didnt treat the mugos like the jbp).

I have found I cant grow larch or stewartia either- maybe ill try when I move to an area with more of a dormant period.


JBP is a much warmer climate tree than mugo and larch. Not sure about stewartia, thought those were a warmer species but not sure.
10A is pretty warm and doesnt have much cold weather in winter which larch and mugos need
 

M. Frary

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I was told that one does not have to worry about sealing open wounds with cut paste because pines exude a gummy substance that essentially seals wounds. In any case, I will go home and apply cut paste. It wouldn’t hurt. Thanks.
Vance uses a kind of cut paste.
What it is I don't remember but it's like a fat brown crayon.
 
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