Dwarf mulberry?

James W.

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I saw what was labeled "Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry" at a Lowes the other day. Anybody have any experience with one? I'm curious if there would be any advantage over a regular red, white or black mulberry. Does it have smaller leaves or shorter internodes?
 

sorce

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See the threads below.

I believe the "everbearing" is best!
Mmmmmm.

The dwarf could be BS to be sold for "patio" use.

Sorce
 

milehigh_7

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It is a black mulberry. It is definitely a true dwarf. It will be far less hardy in the cold and in fact, thrives in zone 10. It will bear fruit at a very young age compared to the others. It also frequently bears fruit in pots. That's about the extent of what I know.
 

James W.

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Dug up a little information about them:
They probably are not Morus nigra as most often sold.
They could be Moris rotundiloba "Matsunaga", a hybrid of M. rubra and M. alba. Also sold as "Mojo berry" and "Charlotte Russe". Fast growing, brushy with seedless berries. Bears fruit very young and on current year's wood.
Or they could be one of a couple of black-fruited M. alba varieties.
Or maybe M. nigra "Gerardi" but this one is purportedly a slow growing tree that will not produce fruit for several years.
 

Dan92119

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I have what is called a dwarf mulberry Morus nigra . When I purchased it that tag said up to 12ft tall. It has small leaves 1.5 inch or so. Very fast grower! Had it 2 years about 9ft tall. TONs of fruit this year. I am going to air layer in the future.
 

James W.

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Where it show “Similar Threads”. Follow near the very bottom.
Ahh. I was looking for a link, I guess. Too lazy.
Yah, I saw those before I asked the question. No information beyond they were going to try some. Cuttings are apparently easy.
 

milehigh_7

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It seems that on this particular tree, there is somewhat of a naming controversy. (Imagine that...) It's always been marketed as Morus nigra but several places have taken to just calling it Morus Sp. I have seen some people who claim to be experts saying it is not nigra. Anyhow, you may be on to something with the naming...
 

James W.

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It seems that on this particular tree, there is somewhat of a naming controversy. (Imagine that...) It's always been marketed as Morus nigra but several places have taken to just calling it Morus Sp. I have seen some people who claim to be experts saying it is not nigra. Anyhow, you may be on to something with the naming...
And apparently there are several species/varieties being sold as "dwarf everbearing"
(now parroting internet research gleanings, including Wikipedia)
Added to that many people call a mulberry tree that has black mulberries a "black mulberry tree". While this may be a good description it is not necessarily a good species identification, many Morus species can have black or very dark fruit (including white mulberry) but it gets perpetuated by people who don't know better and call it M. nigra.
To add to the confusion several species hybridize easily, and several plants of other genera are called mulberries.
AND
M. rubra and M. nigra are not real easy to differentiate. One source said the only positive way to identify was by observing the nuclei with a microscope, M. nigra has a high polyploidy and the large number of chromosomes is obvious. The same author claims there is no dwarf or everbearing variety of M. nigra. (mulberry varieties)
Pheww!
I think I might be able tell whether or not the one at the store is M. alba. If it is alba it might be worth messing with.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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At the store, check the name tag for a statement of hardiness. If they claim it is hardy in Kansas, it is probably M. rubra, or M. alba, or a hybrid with one of those two. Sometimes in the fine print, they will include the 'official' cultivar name. Searching on that can turn up the ancestry of the plant.
 

James W.

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At the store, check the name tag for a statement of hardiness. If they claim it is hardy in Kansas, it is probably M. rubra, or M. alba, or a hybrid with one of those two. Sometimes in the fine print, they will include the 'official' cultivar name. Searching on that can turn up the ancestry of the plant.
Except there are a lot of retards ignorant and/or uncaring SOBs people that will claim almost anything is hardy in Kansas. For instance, they sell an awful lot of azaleas. Which may be technically hardy, they just don't survive. And pin oaks. I can almost 100% guarantee that any pin oak planted around here that looks healthy is not actually a pin oak.
 

Forsoothe!

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The run-of-the-mill Mulberry set free in your yard by local birds is a very good grower and the leaves become contorted and more deeply cut as they are reduced by denuding in mid-June, almost every year until they suit your soul. They are like an American version of Japanese Maple. (With so many varieties planted here, God only knows the linage of fruits trafficked by birds.) I highly recommend this tree to novices and big shooters alike.
 

James W.

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The run-of-the-mill Mulberry set free in your yard by local birds is a very good grower and the leaves become contorted and more deeply cut as they are reduced by denuding in mid-June, almost every year until they suit your soul. They are like an American version of Japanese Maple. (With so many varieties planted here, God only knows the linage of fruits trafficked by birds.) I highly recommend this tree to novices and big shooters alike.
I agree, and I have several.
 

JudyB

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Except there are a lot of retards ignorant and/or uncaring SOBs people that will claim almost anything is hardy in Kansas. For instance, they sell an awful lot of azaleas. Which may be technically hardy, they just don't survive. And pin oaks. I can almost 100% guarantee that any pin oak planted around here that looks healthy is not actually a pin oak.
Off topic, (sorry) but why are pin oaks not hardy to 6B? I have several...
 

James W.

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Off topic, (sorry) but why are pin oaks not hardy to 6B? I have several...
No problems, we've kind of veered a bit.
Pin oaks are plenty hardy but they require more acidic soil than what is available here and do not tolerate limestone which is pretty much the kind of rock we have. So they develop chlorosis unless they are treated with iron supplements every year. Sometimes they will grow just fine for a few years until they get their roots down into the subsoil clay and rocks.
 

JudyB

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No problems, we've kind of veered a bit.
Pin oaks are plenty hardy but they require more acidic soil than what is available here and do not tolerate limestone which is pretty much the kind of rock we have. So they develop chlorosis unless they are treated with iron supplements every year. Sometimes they will grow just fine for a few years until they get their roots down into the subsoil clay and rocks.
Ah yes it is the same here in some places. Mostly in Columbus area but not where I am. I thought you were speaking of cold hardiness. Probably the same issue for azaleas for you.
Back on the subject, I'd love to have a dwarf mulberry.
 

James W.

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Ah yes it is the same here in some places. Mostly in Columbus area but not where I am. I thought you were speaking of cold hardiness. Probably the same issue for azaleas for you.
Back on the subject, I'd love to have a dwarf mulberry.
Summer heat is what usually kills my azaleas (and I've killed quite a few). I can adjust enough of the topsoil to satisfy their acid requirements.

Back to dwarf mulberry, I was all excited about getting one but I not convinced that an actual dwarf exists.
Although I did run across some variegated mulberries. That is going on my list!
 

James W.

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Well, I bought one. Tiny plant, will find a spot in the yard for it.
Most likely is M. alba despite anything the tag says. Could be the variety "Dwarf Everbearing", I guess we'll see in a couple of years when it gets settled in.
 

ABCarve

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I'm confused by the "everbearing" part. Does it really do that?
I have a dwarf mulberry that I got from Bill V. Sorry no scientific name. It has the traits of what I would call dwarf, slow growing, smaller leaves and the fruit is half the size of normal, but quite edible. I had it in the ground for a year and half, which is risky where I live 5a. They do well a long lake Erie(5b) but a few miles south they die back to the ground and try to regrow. Mine tolerated its only winter but reverted back with a very vigorous sport at the base. This was a good thing for me in that it increased the caliper of the tree by more than an inch in that one growing season.
 
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