Eastern white pine

Nybonsai12

Nybonsai12

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I already know they don't make the best bonsai subjects for a variety of reasons, but I figured what's the worst that could happen. So here it is. Obviously the low branching means it will lend itself to a bunjin/literati style. Or at least that is how I see it fully admitting I have a toughs time seeing a finished tree in a piece of stock. And although there appears to be a straight section it's really not that bad in person because it is leaning.

Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.
 

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I think this tree would make a pretty elegant bunjin in no time...the movement in the trunk is subtle but certainly good enough, and it appears tall enough that the long needles won't look out of place (at least they don't right now;)). The biggest issue I have with this stock, and most EWP have the same issue, is the smooth bark. A good pine bonsai should have nice, plated bark to evoke a sense of age. I still think this could be a fun project tree...and maybe in 10 to 15 years, the tree might begin to bark up a bit.
 
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I really like this tree. Dave is right about it being a decent bujin rather quickly. After you get the initial structure all wired. It will only take a couple/few seasons of candle reduction and you will have a beautiful image. Really nice tree!

Rob
 
Thanks guys. I am looking at lots of photos online of different bunjins. Can't wait to get to work on it.
 
Is that another Dan special?
I bought a azalea from him last night.
Will post about it when I get the chance.
 
Indeed it is. Love his material. Can't wait to see your azalea thread.
 
Nybonsai12 said:
I already know they don't make the best bonsai subjects for a variety of reasons, but I figured what's the worst that could happen. So here it is. Obviously the low branching means it will lend itself to a bunjin/literati style. Or at least that is how I see it fully admitting I have a toughs time seeing a finished tree in a piece of stock. And although there appears to be a straight section it's really not that bad in person because it is leaning.

Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.
Click to expand...

I've heard the knock on these as bonsai as well. I've pushed several along for about 8 years with no problems. I will say their recovery time is a little longer than other pines. After they establish themselves I have pushed for backbudding and they have done nothing but perform well for me.

Your tree looks young and flexible enough to make some movement happen. Twisting and bending really allows for the best movement. I also rafia the tree as the twisting might cause some cracking in the trunk, but the rafia does a good job of holding it together so it will heal well.

If you see it kicking out good new growth, it is vigorous and ready to be worked. If the new candles are minimal, consider giving it all the sun it wants for another year before working it very hard.
 
October said:
May I ask who Dan is? Also, does he have a site?
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Nybonsai12 said:
Local guy who grows stock as a hobby. No website or official nursery.
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He is a member of both my and NY's clubs. He always brings a bunch of trees in his truck in various stages of pre-bonsai development for sale.
 
I gave a shot at doing some initial wiring down of the branches in this one last night and it gave me a hard time. I broke two or three branches which was surprising as I didn't think any of the bends I was attempting were so bad. I am guessing its more brittle due to the season. I hadn't planned on removing branches now at the suggestions of a resident expert. The reason being that if it suffers dieback I'll still have more options than if I cut away branches now.

The only branch lost that may pose a problem is near the top although I'm not sure it is a huge deal because it was the same thickness as the current top so they almost seemed like they were in competition with one another. I was pretty pissed about it last night, but live and learn. Not thrilled with it but we will see what next season brings.
 

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What about krazy glue. I always have crazy glue on hand whenever bend work is done. Years ago at the nursery, we repaired a huge break on a large pine. It worked so well it was like it never happened.

Rob
 
I'll be sure to try that next time. These snapped pretty bad though.

Thoughts on pics above? Should I really be trying to get bends in the branches so that it gets it In closer to the trunk, or just bending down as is and hope for it it back bud.
 
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Nybonsai12 said:
I'll be sure to try that next time. These snapped pretty bad though.

Thoughts on pics above? Should I really be trying to get bends in the branches so that it gets it In closer to the trunk, or just bending down as is and hope for it it back bud.
Click to expand...

As long as the branch is still attached, the glue method works very well.

In my opinion, maybe just leaving it as is and seeing what happens might be the best route. You could put some side to side movement in the branches as well. This will shorten up the branches even further. Generally, there should be some side to side movement anyway. Also, a trees overall image sometimes looks best when the branches are not all in a 2 dimensional pattern. Meaning that one branch, usually the anchoring branch comes toward you a bit. Then, maybe the next one leans back a bit etc. This not only creates a more natural feel, but makes the tree look fuller. Also, this allows light to penetrate down onto the foliage pads throughout the tree. If each pad sits right on top of the other as you go up the tree, it can block light and you might start to get die back on the pad/pads below.

I don't think that back budding or necessarilly getting the branches closer are the main issues now. I think letting the small clusters of foliage develop into loose, smaller needle, small pad areas is what this tree needs. That is something that time will do. Others may have different opinions though.

All in all, a great tree with a lot of potential, given time and patience.

Rob
 
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Nybonsai12 said:
I gave a shot at doing some initial wiring down of the branches in this one last night and it gave me a hard time. I broke two or three branches which was surprising as I didn't think any of the bends I was attempting were so bad. I am guessing its more brittle due to the season. I hadn't planned on removing branches now at the suggestions of a resident expert. The reason being that if it suffers dieback I'll still have more options than if I cut away branches now.

The only branch lost that may pose a problem is near the top although I'm not sure it is a huge deal because it was the same thickness as the current top so they almost seemed like they were in competition with one another. I was pretty pissed about it last night, but live and learn. Not thrilled with it but we will see what next season brings.
Click to expand...

Whenever a wired branch snaps as I'm bending it, it usually has less to do with how flexible (or inflexible) the branch is and more to do with where my wire is compared to where the bend is being placed. The wire MUST be on the outside of the bend to support the wood as it's bent. I've learned this the hard way after breaking more then a few wired pine branches...but azalea branches are THE WORST for doing this.
 
Long term project. You could air layer below the lowest branch. Let that one grow to fatten the base. Then cutoff when your happy with it. Write to muranaka and ask him about air layering pines. He is good at it. Website below.
http://www.muranakabonsai.com
 
Paradox said:
He is a member of both my and NY's clubs. He always brings a bunch of trees in his truck in various stages of pre-bonsai development for sale.
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Might I ask which club you both belong to? I'm in Brooklyn and looking.

Realy nice tree by the way!!
 
jkd2572 said:
Long term project. You could air layer below the lowest branch. Let that one grow to fatten the base. Then cutoff when your happy with it. Write to muranaka and ask him about air layering pines. He is good at it. Website below.
http://www.muranakabonsai.com
Click to expand...

I thought about this but my success with layers is minimal and pines are even more difficult than anything deciduous. At this point with the framework the way it is I think the best option is to shoot for a bunjin even though they are difficult to pull off. We'll see what next season brings as for growth. I tinkered with it a little more last night to get some more movement in and to make sure light hits everything. layer could be an option down the road if it doesn't come together the way I hope.
 
Emrys said:
Might I ask which club you both belong to? I'm in Brooklyn and looking.

Realy nice tree by the way!!
Click to expand...

I belong to the Long Island Bonsai Society which meets in Oyster Bay once a month. I would say come out to a meeting where there is a planned demo. I believe the next is in January. There is also the Greater Bonsai Society of NY which I believe meets in Farmingdale once a month on Fridays. I believe Paradox is a member of the Eastern Suffolk Bonsai Society.
 
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