Elm Pruning

[jimlau]

I have a vigorous elm that has all the main branches pretty set. now it needs ramification. for the health of the tree, should I let it grow for the start of the season somewhat unpruned, then start cutting back in a month or so, or should I pinch every shoot back to 1-2 pairs the whole year?

thanks.

 

[Poink88]

I am new but I prune my elm back regularly after it has about 7 leaves or so and after both leaves and branch hardened.

I don't really pinch it like I do boxwood, neea, olive, pomegranate, TX sage, and yaupon holly.

 

[cmeg1]

I am not an expert,but I am a fan of letting the shoot grow a bit on elm so the base buds form first before you pinch,especiallyy in spring since it is a somewhat fragile time here in the north.

 

[jimlau]

thanks.

I have a critical branch about 1/2 way up the 15" trunk, whose first 3" is straight. not sure i'm brave enough to cut it back to half that and hope for a bud to pop. does this sound like an approach graft scenario?

 

[Poink88]

thanks.

I have a critical branch about 1/2 way up the 15" trunk, whose first 3" is straight. not sure i'm brave enough to cut it back to half that and hope for a bud to pop. does this sound like an approach graft scenario?

How thick is the branch? I know they are hard but can be bent.

Unless you do something wrong, it should sprout multiple shoots when you chop it. I personally won't waste my time with approach graft on elm.

Post pics if you can.

 

[jimlau]

it's about 1/4". I can't uploaqd a file on here for some reason.

here is a link to it. note I just started to wire.

http://postimg.org/image/ch229rdrr

the arrow shows the first node on the straight branch.

 

[october]

Hello jimlau..Very nice tree. Beautiful form. I would not be too concerned with that straight section right now. With elms, you need to wait until there are around 8 leaf sets/the branch hardens off before you prune back. Otherwise, the young branch might die.

After seeing your elm and judging by its growth. I really think you should let it grow, untouched for it to gain strength and present new secondary branch options. Also, you don't have to gamble on cutting back and hoping that the bud develops. By letting it grow freely, you can wait until you see the bud developing into a small healthy branch, then cut back at that point. Basically, I would let it grow where all the young branches are like 1 foot long or so. I know that the tree will look like a mess. However, the result after it is pruned back will look great and well worth a couple/ few months of looking at a messy tree.

Rob

 

[jimlau]

rob,

I waited all last year for a bud to show up on that branch closer to the trunk, but none did. it's almost inhuman to wait another year. but that's your advice?

 

[october]

Well, I do have a couple of observations. The straight branch. I don't think it is that much of an issue. It seems like it because the tree is so bare. However, if you can just pull it down a bit, it would look better. Also, when the foliage grows in, it might hide the branch.

Second, the young branch above it could substitute. If you cut the straight branch off, then wire the branch above it, down, eventually, it will fill it that space. I think this would work even more so because the branch underneath the straight one, looks like it splits into 2 main sections. So the back section of that branch could fill in the negative space as a back and side branch in one. Does any of this make sense? Sometimes it is tough to explain with out having the tree to demonstrate.

Rob

 

[october]

This might make it easier. Here is a virt. If you do decide to wire that branch down above the straight one. You will need to let it grow untouched so it gains strength and thickens up to match the thickness of the other branches.

Rob

 

[jimlau]

thanks. I actually did get it from your explanation.

I will tinker. that branch to wire down, as I recall, is from the back. will check to see what can be done.

thanks.

 

[Poink88]

You'll think I am crazy but due to the reverse taper and other reasons I'll chop it...this is what I would do with that tree if it is mine.

View attachment 34825

I won't do the chop right away...rather kill the current top by stripping the bark (like a jin) then use the wood as anchor to "lift" the branch at the right to be upright. I will also tilt the tree to the left a bit at repotting time.

 

[jimlau]

what reverse taper do u mean?

I actually almost had the top go as u show early on, but due to the thickness and length of the base, it didn't taper well. the trunk is quite thick. it would have taken many years to get the taper right.

so I decided to go taller.